Which Buffer RPM to order?

Dennis,
I have 8" wheels on 3/4 hp running at 1800 rpm.

I'm not very experienced, but that is my setup.

Richard
 
1800 is the safeest and will give you a better buffing action. 3600 seems more dangerous and can smear and burn some materials because of its speed.
 
Think of it this way. Which would you rather have, a sharp pointy object
grabbed and thrown by an 1800 rpm machine or a 3600 rpm machine.
Neither one is fun but would prefer it to be moving slower.
That is why I own an 1800 rpm.
 
Hi Dennis,
I have 2 of the 3/4 hp 1800 rpm Baldor buffers. They are a real good machine. They can use a 10" wheel. As for safety The only time that they are safe is when they are turned off!!!! This does not stop me from using them. I know If I make a mistake while buffing I might loose somthing important;) One of the makers I see at a local show had to have his thumb reattached :eek: I use a kevlar apron and I am hoping never to put it to the test.
Here is a site to find out what to use for wheels and compound.http://rwwilsonknives.com/buffing.html
RW Wilson is a good Guy to deal with. He is one of the suppliers I deal with for knife making supplies.
Be SAFE :thumbup:
 
The 1800 rpm will work great for most knife shop's. I have that in my shop as well. If you get time, check out my setup in my Knife Shop Tour. You can see what I am using for my knife making. Great Post and hope this is of help to you. -----------:thumbup:
 
I'd go with the 1800 rpm buffer.

This was caused by a 3600 rpm buffer.

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It severed a tendon, all the nerves and a major blood vein. It cost over $10,000 dollars to get everything put back together. I'm very lucky to have use of the thumb and feeling in it. The feeling isn't perfect but it gets closer to "normal" with each passing day.

If I had been using an 1800 rpm buffer the damage may have not been as severe.
 
1800 and variable speed and slower if possible.
As one of my best friends A.T. Barr, says,"Speed Kills!"
The faster the machine, tha higher the potential of an, "Oh Darn", or oh Sh@t that hurts!!!!!!!!!!.
and a messed up piece of steel.......
Art, Son of a gun...OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
So far I've been fortunate, either Medcheck or my regular Doc, or Superglue have handled my highly bleed-able concerns....
Art, Son Of a Gun......OUCH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
OH MY!!!!!!!
 
Jeepers, Arthur, I forgot about that... now I remember you posting it a few months ago. A lesson to us all, for sure. My very best wishes for your continued healing.

I like hand-rubbed finishes more and more every day...
 
Greetings,
I did order the 3600 rpm buffer this morning......I am changing the order to the 1800 rpm...

I have to tell you all the truth....Your posts are helpful. Arther's Post scares the death of me!

Thanks,
Dennis
 
Definitely you are correct in changing your order to the 1800 rpm buffer. Even with that you have to keep your wits about you. I use an 1800rpm blador buffer and have had some very close calls that have scared me, couldn't imagine working with a 3600rpm buffer.

Sean
 
Dennis,
I just bought the identical Baldor 332B

Catalog Number: 332B
Specification Number: G8-169-60
Horsepower: 3/4
Voltage: 115/230
Hertz: 60
Phase: 1
Amps: 4.6/2.3
RPM: 1800
Insulation:
Baldor Type: 3524C
Max Wheel Size: 8 inches
Wheel Width Min/Max: 0.38/1.25
Bearings: 6206
Mechanical Specification Number: G8LY0169
Electrical Specification Number: G8WG0060
UL Listed: Yes
CSA Certified: No

I have never used one like this before. Everything i read here told me to go slow. I did however just read a post by MLovett that said and i quote
i fine that a higher RPM buffer, while having more retained energy to throw tings at incredible speed, is much, much less likely to grab a blade. The higher speed causes the wheel to float over the surface of the steel rather than allowing the steel to sink into the wheel. This is when the wheel wraps around the edges of the steel, and grabs it out of your hands. That and it will burnish the steel much better. Really sealing the surface. Which is what a full mirror polish is for in the first place. Not for the looks. but to protect the steel.
Click to expand...

Now I am scared. Mine is still in the box. I am planning on setting it up this weekend.
I dont have a stand yet(I really need a welder) Will most likely set it up on a bench.
 
I have a friend who has a large box of shavings from his planer that he keeps situated under his buffer to catch flying pieces of steel and keep them from ricocheting around the shop and maybe hitting him. He swears it stops things dead. If you are going with 10" or 12" wheels, definitely go with the 1800, you might be okay with the 3600 if you use smaller wheels, but I personally wouldn't recommend it.
 
I have an 1800 rpm buffer than has never been switched on because I am terrified ofthe thing. If I ever use it, it may only be for stropping the burr off of the edge on blades. I heard somewhere that you can redulce the ballistic properties of a snatched blade not only by having something soft on the floor but also by locking the tang in the biggest pair of vice grip pliers you have so that the blade/vice grip package weighs a lot more and won't bounce back up as easily. Ed fowler says that you should only buff on he bottom half of of the wheel too so it the blade gets loose, it will hopefully go down and away from you.....in theory....lol.
 
Hey guys! I'm really out voted on this one! I was playing around with lower speed in the shop the other day. I have a mandrels that will fit my variable Bur-King. So i set up a little test. My Buffer is a "BIG" 3600 RPM Baldor. I used the same wheels on each on round bar stock just to be safe. Just as I had found years ago, with the softer wheels, the lower the RPM, the faster it will snatch a blade! Don't even think of using a soft pucker buff on a low RPM Machine. Not only will it snatch a blade out of your hand before you know what the hell is going on, it will carry the blade, and you hand around with it. "NEVER AGAIN". I ask Bob Loveless and Latter Jim Merritt about this. They both, came up with the same reasoning. Good enough for me! That, and I don't like standing in front of the Buffer all day. I'm basically Lazy!!! Because of the wheels acting harder on the higher RPM machines, they polish much faster. Not twice faster but mant time so. The wheels being firmer at high speed gives you crisper lines as well. I dont want muted grind lines. Mike
 
If you want to achieve a mirror finish, you need high RPM's. Buffing is all about heat. You need the heat to move the metal around.

If you just want to satin finish, an 1800 RPM buffer is fine.

I don't use pucker buffs-Just sewn and loose muslin. If you prep your blade properly, buffing takes a very short time. You need concentration, technique and strong hands and forearms. Any machine will hurt you if you use it wrong.

RJ
 
rj martin said:
If you want to achieve a mirror finish, you need high RPM's. Buffing is all about heat. You need the heat to move the metal around.

If you just want to satin finish, an 1800 RPM buffer is fine.

I don't use pucker buffs-Just sewn and loose muslin. If you prep your blade properly, buffing takes a very short time. You need concentration, technique and strong hands and forearms. Any machine will hurt you if you use it wrong.

RJ
Click to expand...

That is not true. I use the 1800 RPM in my shop and I produce a mirror finish on some of my blades. I hand rub all my blade to a 2000 grit before using the buffer. But I will agree with you on this issue and that is the 3600 RPM will removing at a quicker rate reducing your time in bluffing the blade out to the mirror finish. There is one more thing I would like to point out and that is the 1800 RPM will also eat your hands up just like the 3600 will. Check for loose wheels and never buff above the center of the wheel. I am using Two Baldor 332B with hoods and it help with steel dust and material from flying in your face. I also have vacuum suction that I installed on the two buffer.
 
I am rebuilding my buffer stand to a pedestal with arms for each buffer that way each wheel is open all the way around. I got bit by a buffer early on and I keep a very good grip on my material. Never put a corner or an edge on the "upstream" of the buffer. As mentioned in an earlier thread I also like my felt wheels as they are harder and not as grabby. If I buff a handle I wrap up the blade in a rag and some duct tape.
 
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