Which Edge Pro first?

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Jul 25, 2009
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I have just about made up my mind not to buy another knife until I buy myself and Edge Pro sharpener. My question is which one to buy to start with I would like to keep the price down (of course) but don't want to have to order accessories right away. What will keep me happy for a while? Thanks
 
The Apex will do fine. Just make sure you get the stones that you need. I like the 120, 220, 320, 600, and 3000 polishing tapes, although I probably could leave the 600 off if need be.
 
I'd recommend that you pick up an extra 120 stone. They wear out pretty quickly, especially if you do a lot of re-profiling. Also be sure to get one or two stone blanks, so in the future you can add on perhaps a diamond stone or a leather strop to your set-up. The blanks are cheap so that should cause you much concern. Having strops that meet your exact angle needs lets you finish your edges nicely.

Stitchaw
 
The Apex will do fine. Just make sure you get the stones that you need. I like the 120, 220, 320, 600, and 3000 polishing tapes, although I probably could leave the 600 off if need be.

So it is okay to go from the 320 stone to 3000 tape? That would be a relief, since I wouldn't have to buy the 600 stone, 1000 stone, 2000 tape, 6000 tape and 7000 tape! I realize what stones and tapes to buy is mostly personal preference regarding the final finish on the edge one wants, but I'm curious about how many grit steps can safely be skipped over in the progression and spectrum from 120 to 7000.
 
320 to 3000 seems like an extremely big jump to me o.O.
I would get the 600 just to be on the safe side.
 
320 to 3000 seems like an extremely big jump to me o.O.
I would get the 600 just to be on the safe side.

I thought so too, but what do I know... seriously. Anyway, if that's the case, maybe the 1000 stone makes even more sense than 600 does in between the 320 stone and 3000 tape. 1000 is just a bit closer than 600 to both the last (320) and the next (3000).

It is so easy to go mental by getting too nit-picky. Sometimes I'm tempted to just go out to the local hardware store and pick up a $14.99 Norton coarse/fine crystolon and be done with it.
 
I thought so too, but what do I know... seriously. Anyway, if that's the case, maybe the 1000 stone makes even more sense than 600 does in between the 320 stone and 3000 tape. 1000 is just a bit closer than 600 to both the last (320) and the next (3000).

It is so easy to go mental by getting too nit-picky. Sometimes I'm tempted to just go out to the local hardware store and pick up a $14.99 Norton coarse/fine crystolon and be done with it.

If you really wanted to save money, you could just buy a 1200 grit stone and a strop with CrO2. It would take you forever to get what you wanted to end up with (and I do mean forever) but it could be done. The idea of going in steps is the same as the idea of using steps to get from the first floor to the third. You could just rig a rope and climb past the second floor, but using the steps is a lot easier.

Stitchawl
 
I'm not that cost conscious. I actually enjoy fiddling and trying new techniques and materials. I will spend a decent amount money on this stuff, but why not try to save money where I can, right.;)
 
I'm not that cost conscious. I actually enjoy fiddling and trying new techniques and materials. I will spend a decent amount money on this stuff, but why not try to save money where I can, right.;)

Absotivly! If it were me, I wouldn't skip too many steps!! We are talking some serious make-up work without them.

But do take a look at the other thread. The idea of using wet/dry sandpaper is a sound one. You don't need to use just the one stone, 2-3 is better, and fill in any gaps with the sandpaper.

Stitchawl
 
I personally don't like to skip that much, but you can always try it, and if you don't like it, buy some more stones later.
 
If you really wanted to save money, you could just buy a 1200 grit stone and a strop with CrO2. It would take you forever to get what you wanted to end up with (and I do mean forever) but it could be done. The idea of going in steps is the same as the idea of using steps to get from the first floor to the third. You could just rig a rope and climb past the second floor, but using the steps is a lot easier.

Stitchawl

Unless you are re-profiling, a 1200 grit stone will do a very good job to keep a kitchen knife razor sharp. Use of the loaded strop after will refine and fix little flaws in the edge. The strop can be used for touch ups until the next sharpening session. I have an EdgePro Apex full kit and a full line up of Shapton glass stones from 220 to 8000. I have recently left my 1000 grit glass stone out and have use it exclusively finishing with my CrO2 loaded strop. This is the only thing I'm doing now and my edges have been shaving sharp and sufficient for most kitchen work.
 
I have recently left my 1000 grit glass stone out and have use it exclusively finishing with my CrO2 loaded strop. This is the only thing I'm doing now and my edges have been shaving sharp and sufficient for most kitchen work.

For my kitchen knives, I use my Sharpmaker (Fine stones only) once a week, and a borocillicate rod daily. That seems to be fine for me. I don't strop my kitchen knives, just 'steel' them with the glass rod. Once or twice year I put them on my EdgePro along with my other working knives, down to 15,000 with polishing tapes and films and finished with strops. All my other knives (other than kitchen tools, that is,) get stropped regularly (depending upon usage) with .5mic diamond or CrO2, and bare leather strops.

Stitchawl
 
You are already spending a lot on a high quality sharpening system. I would not cut the last corner to save 10%. Buy all the stones don't look back and enjoy.

But for normal use is the 3000 grid film only cosmetic. For normal use are the stones and the rod enough. You could save money not buying the polishing film.
But with the 3000 grid the bevel is beautifully polished, I like that on my high end knives.

You won't regret the Edgepro!

Marthijn
 
I would go with the 600 stone. When I use my EP, I use the 220,320 and 600the most. It goes very fast, so the progression of 3 stones isn't a chore. The 600 stone puts a very nice smooth finish on the edge. They didn't have the 800 when I bought my kit.
 
You'll want a 120,220,320, 600 and 1000 stone, before the glass mount and the 3000 tape.

The fine diamond is a good investment if you do much re-profiling.
 
You'll want a 120,220,320, 600 and 1000 stone, before the glass mount and the 3000 tape.

The fine diamond is a good investment if you do much re-profiling.

After I bought my system in Canada I noticed the glass mount for tapes for sale on Edgepro's website. Description said that AFIs and knuts requested it, even though the metal mount is flat. So while I was there, I ordered the glass to supplement the two standard tape blanks I already have.

Did you get the glass because you weren't happy with the performance of the standard metal tape mount/blank?
 
I got the glass because I wanted something very, very hard, and perfectly flat for mounting the abrasives tapes on.

I like for a blade to be mirror shiny as well as hair splitting sharp. I finish most of my blades with pink 6K polishing tape, then strop with .25 micron and/or .1 micron diamond paste. (depending on the steel, of course. Some steels, like D-2 don't like a finish quite that fine.)
 
Doesnt this thing come with like an all inclusive kit? I dont want to have to buy a whole lot of extras after i buy the system and end up paying like $1000 for a sharpening system if you know what i mean.
 
All you really need is the Apex sharpener and some extra of the course stones which will wear away much faster than the others. The only way you'd need the Pro model is if you plan to sharpen for others and use it more as a business tool than a personal one.

STR
 
So it is okay to go from the 320 stone to 3000 tape? That would be a relief, since I wouldn't have to buy the 600 stone, 1000 stone, 2000 tape, 6000 tape and 7000 tape! I realize what stones and tapes to buy is mostly personal preference regarding the final finish on the edge one wants, but I'm curious about how many grit steps can safely be skipped over in the progression and spectrum from 120 to 7000.

Honestly, I don't think you'd need all the in-betweens. I have only two stones: a DMT extra-extra coarse and an extra fine benchstone. Extra fine polishes out the extra-extra coarse scratches in about 20 minutes. You might save a little bit of time by using a stone of grit somewhere in between, but in my opinion it's negligible.
 
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