Which folder for this application?

Joined
Sep 29, 2005
Messages
60
Howdy,
FNG here, looking for some input on my next edc folder knife. I've read some of the faqs and did some searches on the knifes I currently own to gather some info.

My MO as far as knife use goes:
1. I'm not a knife fighter, not interested in becoming a knife fighter, not concerned with self-defense use when selecting a knife for my uses.

2. I use my knifes for work, sometimes work in harsh conditions.

3. I don't have a lot of patience with hard to sharpen knives or other high maintenance type of knife. As evidenced by the fact that I've owned a lanskey sharpening system for 3 years now and it is still in the toolbox drawer. Seems like a big hassel to set-up and use. (yes, I realize knifes need some maintenance and I will have to learn to sharpen them sooner or later) but I simply don't have the patience to deal with a high maintenance knife.

4. I'm not interested in collecting knifes or custom knifes.

I've loosely tracked my knife use over the last three weeks to get an idea of my typical use pattern. Here a some of the things I've used my knifes for:
1. Camping at the ocean - cutting some string, cleaning some crab, cutting some plastic zip ties, cutting some photo paper. Note: my small tighe tac was used quite a bit at the ocean and the thing is already showing some rust on the blade.

2. Cutting some plastic sheeting that was in a drainage ditch. Some of the cutting was done under water in the ditch. Lots of water, dirt and sand in the knife.

3. Cutting landscape fabric for laying down prior to gravel pour. No water this time, but inevitably some dragging the blade through dirt/gravel a little bit.

4. Opening your typical UPS packages.

5. Stripping small sections of direct burial romex electrical cable.

6. Slicing curred caulking on the side of a house/window in preparation for removing the window.

7. Cutting heater hose and vacuum hose in the engine compartment of my race car.

8. More cutting, and some stripping of 12v electrical wires in race car. Note this was at the track and did not have any strippers.

9. Cut building paper (tar paper) to fit in wall cavities.

10. Cut insulation when removing from wall.

11. Peeling some decals off the race car.

12. Cutting rope and plastic zip ties used for tie downs in race trailer.

13. Cutting string used to help erect canopy at track.

14. Open envelopes.

15. Cutting gasket material to make gaskets.

16. Cutting cardboard (boxes) to breakdown and put in recycle box.

17. Cutting light weight cardboard used for mock-ups of part designs.

18. Cutting fuel line on truck.

19. Cutting open misc. food packages, apples ect.

Much of my knife use is "one handed". My off hand is usually holding something that needs to be cut. Ability to deploy and stow the knife easily with my strong hand only is critical. Also, I use gloves quite a bit, mostly the mechanixs style of gloves, less frequently the heavy chore type of gloves.

I'm sure there is more, but this is off the top of my head.

I own the following (lower end) knives that I used during this three week period.

Marzitelli Prowler
http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/e...t=&Mode=Brand&Brand=30&PriceStart=&SKU=CR6103

I kept trying to find reasons to run-down this knife as it only cost $15, however I found myself using it quite a bit.
What I dislike about the knife:
It is too long (as is the M18) for everyday carry/use for me. I realize this may be considered a medium folder in the knife world, but to me this thing is just too long for me to really carry it everyday.

The blade was not very sharp out of the box and did not hold an edge very long (although did not seem to degrade as rapidly as the M18 did)

The knife is (in the closed position) very thick, also not very conducive to carrying.

What I liked about the knife (besides the price)
Absolutely loved the wide open spine design. I was able to run the thing under water (or in the solvent tank) and blow it dry with the air hose. The wide open spine made cleaning it (w/o disassembly) much, much easier.

The balance and ergonomics are really nice on this knife when in use. The very same bulkiness that is a hindrance to carry is a huge benefit for in-use. ( yeah, I know, a bunch of the stuff I'm listing is going to be all about trade-offs)

I really like the "ledge" opening design, it's big enough to get my big thumb in there to actually open the thing one handed. I was even able to open this knife with gloved hands, although the liner-lock release is not always so easy to manipulate. In addition once open the raised ledge makes a very nice thumb rest.

I like the blade profile and point style.

The zytel scales are just "ok" I would say. Certainly better than many knifes as far as grip-ability goes. grip-ability is a big priority for my next knife, as much of the time I will be using the knife in less than optimal conditions and my hands will not be completely dry. For example cutting heater hose and having everything being soaked in coolant while trying to use the knife.

Finally, I like that this knife seems to built like a tank and is simple in design.

Ryan plan B fixed blade
http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/e...xt=&list=10&range=1&order=PriceAsc&SKU=CR2813
I tried using the fixed blade right out of the shoots as I figured it would be easier to clean than a folder and may take the abuse better.

While it was easier to clean, I actually found it harder to use. Primarily because I could never get the hang of putting it back in the sheath. It was always a pia to get the thing back in the sheath each time with any speed at all (and without poking myself in the side). Yes, I tried using my index finger along the blade to guide the tip into the sheath, but found it was not any faster than stowing a folder in my pocket. Further to this I simply don't like carrying too many things on my belt. So, I will not be using a fixed blade for edc.

Small tighe tac
http://www.eknifeworks.com/webapp/e...t=&Mode=Brand&PriceStart=&Brand=30&SKU=CR8101
Not much I really like about this particular knife actually. Other than the overall blade and knife length is more conducive to carry than the prowler or M18 is. Unfortunately the "advantage" of the shorter OA length is diminished greatly by the sharp angles of the knife, particularly the butt of the knife. It simply feels terrible in the hand, and in the pocket. Sharp angles on carry knifes make no sense to me.

M18-12K
http://www.dallastacticalsupplies.com/itemdetails.asp?itemid=CRKM18-12KE

What I like about his knife:
It was sharp out of the box.

The blade coating was surprisingly robust, I figured it would be scratched all to heck (and there is some scratching) but has held up better than expected.

Both this knife and the prowler carried deep in the pocket with tip down, which I like.

Open spine is good, but not as good as the prowler.

More compact and thinner than the prowler making it a bit easier to carry.

Rounded butt - again easier to carry than the prowler.

Lock-up was good on both this knife and the prowler.

I like the blade profile and tip.

Things I didn't like:
Again, this knife is too big (long) for me to consider as an edc, I need something smaller.

Grip panels on only one side of the knife - not good.

Thumb stud is nearly useless for one-handed opening - far too close to the body of the knife.

Assisted opener? Kind of on the fence on this one. The whole "flick the knife open" deal doesn't do much for me. I'm not a Knife fighter and don't need to flick the knife open. After the first 10 "flicks" the novelty wore off. Having said that, the assisted opener makes it easier to open in that it pivots the thumb stud away from the frame so you can actually use it. This is particularly critical when using gloves with this knife.

The knife doesn't balance well for me. Seems too heavy at the pivot point.

The Lawks deal was a pia on this knife as it kept inadvertently being nudged to the "on" position during use. This was very frustrating.

The combo edge blade didn't seem to work out as well as I hoped. On one hand the serrations were good for slicing heater hose and such, but on the other hand they were a detriment when trying to cut plastic sheeting with the plain part of the blade. This combo edge deal strikes me as one of those things where the knife tries to do two things, but does neither of them very well. I assume this situation would just be worse with a shorter length blade?

The single bevel sharpening seems odd to me. As I mentioned I don't have a lot patience and hope this thing isn't going to take some special sharpening procedures...

The liner-lock release is much harder for me to engage on this one vs the prowler for some reason. Probably because the inner width of the frame is less on the M18 than the prowler.

So, there you have it. What little experience I have with folders, and my typical use pattern.

I'd like to try a smaller folder that had the following attributes:

Shorter length than the M18 and prowler (for ease of carry), but still big enough that it is still open-able with one hand (one big hand) on a regular basis (yes I know this is a trade off)

Plain edge blade with more or less the same profile and tip as the m18/prowler.

Rounded corners on knife body.

Blade material with good edge holding ability but not so exotic that it has to have some detailed or difficult sharpening procedures. I have resigned myself that I need some sort of sharpening system. Both the prowler and the m18 are almost uselessly dull at this particular moment. In fact the m18 has a couple good sized nicks in the blade.

Blade and body material that has corrosion resistance.

Tip down, deep carry.

Opening method that is realistically easy to use. My only experience is with the thumb studs on the m18 (useless) and ledge on the prowler (worked well) but I have never used a hole in the blade type. And I suspect a properly designed and placed thumb stud would be ok?

Something that has lots (and I mean lots) of grip-ability (is that word?:))
on the body .

Something that is easy to clean (open spine?)

Something that is robust and simple in design, few parts, solid lock-up and construction etc.

Any suggestions on options would be appreciated.

Wayne
 
Spyderco Salt series.

http://www.knivesplus.com/spyderco-h1-salt-i-pacific-salt-knives.html

Any one of these will suit you perfectly, especially if you're using it around water. I'd go with the regular Salt or the Pacific Salt. The Atlantic Salt is nice as well, but i like a pointy blade better than a sheepsfoot for most tasks. I'd also recommend a serrated edge for most utility purposes. Spyderco's serrations are the best of the best.

Hope this helps.

Peace.
Alex.
 
I would also STRONGLY suggest you take a peek at a Benchmade Griptilian!
Theye can be had in a VERY decent 440c which is corrosion resistant and easy enough to sharpen. Strongest lock out there arguably. Grippy and light. May be a bit thick for your liking(in the handle) but like you said...trade offs. ;)


http://www.knifeoutlet.com/shop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=BM551

Also look around spydercos line, the paramilitary comes to mind but the blade shape isnt what you were looking for.
 
Just feel like posting alot today I guess!
http://www.emersonknives.com/Tact_index.html

I use the CQC-7 its my EDC. I treat my knives very similarly to your description. Construction work and making bows from hickory and a host of other nasty chores are no match for my Emerson. Im not a rabid fan or anything but I know a hardcore tool when I see one.

Anyway check out all of the Production lines that have been suggested thus far. If you cant find a knife in there somewhere that can take what you dish out, then you need a pry bar! :D


Edited to add: Hardcore TOOL refers only to knives and hammers and such..............jeez :foot:
 
Runsalone said:
I would also STRONGLY suggest you take a peek at a Benchmade Griptilian!QUOTE]

If you're anywhere near sand, forget about an axis lock! Sand will get in there and it's a real hassle to get out. The lock will grind and not be smooth and you'll hate it. I'm sure it's a great lock, but not when you're around sand and dirt IMHO.
 
Welcome to Bladeforums! :)

A lot of what you're looking for says Spyderco Salt, rustproof, robust, slim profile, comfortable, but serrated. You could also go for the similar but somewhat less rustproof Spyderco Endura (or the Delica, a smaller Endura) which come in plain edge. All these knives are lockbacks, a reliable lock that leaves the inside of the knife clear for easy cleaning.

You can maintain knives quickly, easily, and very effectively with the Spyderco Sharpmaker. It even comes with a booklet and a DVD to show you how.
 
Try a Razel from newgraham.com.

This is a small hard working fixed blade that carries inside your pocket. If you are willing to think outside the box, this might be a good solution.
 
That's an easy one: Pacific Salt, if that is too big: Salt I.

And make sure you spend the rest of you money on a Sharpmaker. And yes, the Sharpmaker is so easy to use that you WILL use it and it is so compact you can even take it on your camping trips.
 
Wow, those are some nice knifes. I can see where this is going, and it probably won't be good for my bank account. ;)

Are there any retail places that I could get some hands-on time with these different brands?

Wayne
 
You are one of the real users on this forum. I mean you really use the folder a lot and you need a good knife. I vote you upgrade, stop thinking low end.

Spyderco is a great product and the Salt is a very good suggestion. The small FB (BM Nimravus Cub?) seemed like a good solution but did not work for you. OK.

A user like you needs a Sebenza and you deserve it. Yes, it is a lot of bucks but a one time investment.

My .02
 
You have a few to pick from, IMHO. Endura, which I love and have used to death. The manix, if you want a really beefy knife with a useful blade hsape, or, if cleaning is a real issue, Try a Paramilitary. If You give one a shot, you'll find you'll love it.
 
I was hoping to think of something a little more exotic, but I looked at your requirements again, and it sounds to me like you need a Salt.

I don't know about the Sebenza idea. Seems to me like you might lose this knife, and you can go through a whole lot of Salts for the price of one Sebbie.
 
Other than the tip down carry you are looking for the David Boye folder sounds perfect for you.

A close second for less money would be one of the Spyderco Salts but they too are tip up carry like the Boye folder.

If tip down is a must have I'd suggest a Spyderco Calypso Jr. It is one of my all time favorite Spyderco knives. Another that is not out yet but coming soon is the Mini Manix. I believe this knife is going to become one of the big sellers in the Spyderco line when it hits the market.

With the maintainance free leanings you have I don't think you can do much better for the money than a Salt series knife but for a bit more money the Boye folder is a great choice also. I really like mine and find it to be very easy to maintain and probably the easiest knife of all time to sharpen. Getting a very satisfying biting edge on the Boye folder is something even a novice could accomplish due to the alloy the blade is made out of. Also, I've cleaned both my Salt 1 and my Boye folders off in puddles many times and just stuck which ever one I happened to have on me back in my pocket after shaking it off and nothing more. Rust is not a worry with either of these knives.
 
Yeah, I read your post and thought "if I was getting a knife for those things I'd get one of the spyderco salts". Either that or the classic endura/delica. I generally tend to use my Endura for the same tasks you list, though I do bust out one of my cheap fixed blade beaters for anything requiring cutting in gravel. If tip up is a safty concern don't worry about it with the aformentioned spyderco lockbacks, the spring is good and holds the blade far better than any linerlock and better than my 710 axis lock. They're also quite affordable compared to many alternatives.

The salt's big advantage is the rust resistance, it'll never corrode or rust, ever, people have tried really really hard to do so to no effect.
 
My mistake - grahamknives.com it is.

I have one of the small razels and it is hard to beat for a heavy duty knife.
 
STR said:
Other than the tip down carry you are looking for the David Boye folder sounds perfect for you.
I second a Boye especially the dendritic cobalt. Great knife, easy to sharpen and won't rust.
 
Ok folks, now that I've looked (online) at a few of these options I have some follow-up questions.

Lets talk about length first. As I mentioned I am looking for a knife that has a shorter closed length than my current knives, which are:

CRKT M18 carson 3 1/4 blade, 4 3/8 closed, 6061 alum handle w/ G10 inlays, and aus8 stainless blade.

CRKT Prowler 3 1/4 blade, 4 3/8 closed, zytel/ aus-6m stainless blade.

Looking through the options I see a bunch of knifes that are in the 4 3/8 to 4 3/4 closed range.

Further dissection of the specs shows a salt1 at 4 3/8 closed (same as my existing knifes) yet the salt only has a 2 3/4 blade compared to my existing 3 1/4 blades. On the surface it would seem that he crkt designs are more efficient at maximizing blade length and minimizing closed length?

The Delica is 4 closed (only 3/8 shorter than my current) but only has a 2 7/8 blade?

Calypso Jr? Is this knife still available? Several sites showed discontinued, none available?

The only knifes I found that were appreciably shorter than my existing 4 3/8 were the C93 navigator II w/ 2 1/4 blade, 3 1/4 closed, stainless handle, vg10 blade
http://knifeoutlet.com/shop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=SPYC93
Unfortunatly this thing looks like it would be extremely slippery under actual use conditions

And the Dragonfly w/ 2 1/8 blade, 3 1/4 closed but the zytle handled models have aus8 stainless blades.
http://knifeoutlet.com/shop/10Expand.asp?ProductCode=SPYC28

What am I missing here, why no knifes with say a 2.75 blade and corresponding short closed length?

Also, I'm in the Everett WA area, are there any retail stores where I can handle some of these knives?

Wayne
 
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