Which material for pins?

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Feb 4, 1999
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I am ordering a couple kit blades and am curious what the advantages and disadvantages of different pin materials are. I used brass on my Rob sSimonich Cetan Tanto, and they look really nice once they lose their shin, but I feel they sort of clash as far as color goes with the silver steel color. From what I've seen, that leaves me with aluminum and stainless steel as my other choices. Are there reasons NOT to use either material? Thanks!
 
Aluminum can be polished to a very bright polish, but is very soft. So soft, that I think pins of it would not work, the tops would scratch, and if exposed to any torque/strain, they would bend.

If you want something silver-colored, try stainless or nickel-silver.
Aaron

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aaronm@cs.brandeis.edu
 
I have used 303 stainless, brass and nickel silver pins as far as solid pins go. I have also used mosaic pins that really dress up the knife.

Advantages and disadvantages.
Brass is very nice looking freshly buffed. It will tarnish after a while and it will leave a dull brown patina. Some folks like this, some don't. Brass is also soft.

I can basically state the same thing about nickel silver. It will tend to tarnish to somewhat of a grayish dull patina over time. It is fairly soft as well. Some folks refer to this as German silver.

Stainless does not tarnish. This is a BIG advantage. I use nothing but stainless now for bolsters and finger guards. It will not scratch as readily as the other two materials. To each his or her own, that is just my personal preference. Here are the disadvantages of stainless. It is a little harder to work with. One word of caution, when you are buffing the handle upon completion of the knife, do not over buff the material. There will be humps or high spots where the pins are. This is particularly evident on softer handle materials such as water buffalo and sheep horn, not to mention ox horn, which is particularly soft. Just be aware of this to be a potential problem.

On any of the pin material above, particularly stainless, do not get the pins too hot when grinding the handle material, the epoxy will burn around the pins and look horrible. You don't want to get mosaic pins too very hot at all.

I have never worked with aluminum pins.

CLWilkins
 
Thanks for the replies, guys. I figured that aluminum would be a poor choice, but a local hardware store has it available in a variety of sizes, so I thought I should at least confirm my suspicions! I like the way brass looks with the patina, but again, I simply don't like the gold/silver clash! I'll most likely use stainless steel, and I will probably be using Micarta or G-10 for handle slabs.
 
Try the nickel silver stock, it finishes much easier that the stainless, and if you actually want to peen it as a pin shold be done, it is your best choice.
SquareD
 
I would like to clarify something on the preceeding post. When you say to peen the pins, are you referring to peening the pins on just the bolster or would you possibly be referring to actually peening the pins on the scales or handle material?

I have seen fellas that have attempted this
and it always ends up cracking the handle material.

If there is a way to do this without cracking the scales, please let us know how. I am always interested in learning a new (to me) technique.

CLWilkins
 
try to use a pin thats soft. When finishing the handle material they are maost often soft also. If you use a harder material it can be a problem. You will be able to feel the pin.
When finishing use a hard block and sand paper. Always keep the block in contact with the pin and the handle material at all times and it will be a smooth finish. If you belt sand it or hand sand it with something soft the pin will stick up.

As for epoxy I like to use it to water proof under the handle scale.


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[This message has been edited by Darrel Ralph (edited 16 April 1999).]
 
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