Which Mill Cutters to Order That Are Most Used for Knifemaking

S

Satchmo

Joined
Jan 11, 2005
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Hi Everyone
I just received a (square column) Sieg XE Mill Machine from a great guy named Bob at www.lathemasters.com. My mill specs can be seen at http://www.siegind.com/mill/mill/-3.htm. as he does not show my machine on his site, as he just carries a few in stock. It is the next step up from the MiniMill that Harbor Freight carries made by Sieg, who makes most mills of various brands in the US.
I am really new to the mill scene and am unsure, which cutters, acessories, etc. I should order for knifemaking use? Presently, I am making fixed blades, but want to branch as quickly as possible into the folder making world.
I am presently looking at the Enco catalog and am not sure what cutters to order for the knife making task, bolsters cutting, folder frames, slots for guards and folders, which vise,stops or anything esle, etc. Help would greatly be appreciated on this one, as I am stuck at this point.
Hope I am not highjacking a thread as I have searched the archives.
Thanks ( < :
Jon
 
I am using my Smithy mill more as a precsion drill press than anything, and sloting gaurds. For me a set of mini end mills from 3/32" up to 1/2" works great, with spare 3/32" and 1/8" for when I break them. I use the larger ones ocasionaly, but very little for knifemaking. Get the 4 flute type if posible, and it realy helps if you have a good machinest vise. I mill the slot for the gaurd a size below the tange size because it gives me a little room for error and because the mills will cut just a hair larger than they mike out to, and it lets me final finish with a file for a better fit. I built my own drill table, but if you don't have the means to build one that would be a good purchase, I just don't know where you would get one.
 
Keep in mind that bar stock seldom comes in on spec, 1/8" bar stock usually come in closer to .140" so a 1/8" end mill is not going to end up with an oversized slot in a guard.

On the keep it simple principle, do not plan taking two cuts to get a slot to size when an appropriately sized end mill will do the job in one cut then fine tune the fit with a file.

High speed end mills are least expensive but solid carbide end mills will cut hardened blades and Stellite when necessary.
 
Whatever end mills you get, make sure they are of the centercutting variety, so you can cut on the downward stroke, as well as laterally.

Get one mill just for making your guard steps, and make sure is had a radius on the corner. Mine has an 11 degree radius. That keeps from having a 90 degree corner which could promote stress risers. The radius is very small, so it's not like milling a curve, or a half moon in the piece. It's just at the very corner itself.
 
Whatever endmills you decide to purchase always order undersize of finished slot width,pocket size etc. Any endmill will cut an oversize slot,pocket or whatever you are milling.The smaller the dia. the more tool flex.A center cut endmill is good advice,they are more versatile for plunging material out during roughing operations.I always work from the center of my work piece,example:if your piece is in a vice or just clamped to the table I would indicate it square,pick up the edge with a wiggler or edge finder,move over half the diameter of said pickup device and zero my dial.Next move to the center of work piece and re-zero dials,you should now be in the center of work piece,If you have a .125 slot use a 3/32 (.093) endmil.Mill the length and move over .016 on each wall and you should have a nice looking slot that is not over size or sloppy looking.Carbide is tougher but can chip easy if you dont have a rigid set-up plus is quite pricey.High Speed Steel is more economical but you will wipe out an endmill fast if you dont watch your speeds and feeds especially in some of the tool steels we are using for blades.Good luck with whatever you decide on. Invest in a mister for coolant on your tools and they will last much longer too.
 
You, my friend, have just stepped off of solid ground and onto a very slippery slope. With something like a mill, the bad news is you'll NEVER have all the tooling you want for it. If I were you and really never played with a mill before, I'd get a few two flute cutters in 1/8, 1/4 and 3/8 and play with some aluminum for a little bit to get familiar with how the thing works and an idea about how much feeds and speeds will affect your finish. Two flutes in aluminum can be run pretty fast without burning them up right away. Then add some 4 flute center cuttin tools in various sizes. Try to stay away from the cheap chinese cutters. A few HSS to start with, and maybe a few cobalt/HSS models as they are a bit tougher than HSS but not as brittle as carbide.

Have Fun.

John
 
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