Which of my knives has most potential for tree-topping sharpness?

C

CutterBoi

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Nov 19, 2022
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I'm learning to sharpen and strop my knives free-hand. I've set a new-years resolution of sharpening one of my knives, I don't care which one, to "tree-topping" sharpness. This is for self-demonstration purposes rather than actual utility. Which one of the following knives do you think is the best candidate for this goal?
* Spyderco Endela in K390, flat grind, stock edge angle (unknown)
* Bradford Guardian 3 in M390, stock edge angle (unknown)
* Kershaw Leek in 14C28N, unknown edge angle
* OKC RAT 1 in AUS-8, stock edge angle (unknown)
* Mora Companion, probably 12C27 or 14C28N, stock edge angle (unknown)
* OKC RAT 2 in D2, ~34-40 degree inclusive edge
* Buck Spitfire in 420HC, stock edge angle (unknown)
* Gerber Freeman Skinner fixed blade from 2000s in 440a, ~50-degree inclusive edge
* Buck 102 in 5160 with BOS heat treat, ~50 degrees inclusive edge

I have DMT diamond plates ranging from extra extra coarse up to extra extra fine, a Norton combo J1000 / J8000 waterstone, a Venev combo F1200 / F2000 resin-bonded diamond hone, a Norton Ascent ultra fine ceramic stone, and strops loaded green compound and 3.0 - 0.5 micron diamond pastes, so I think I have the tools to handle even my "super steel" knives.

Any suggestions appreciated.
 
Many, if not all of them, can get to that level of sharpness. But if I were to pick one of them to start with, I'd probably choose the Leek. The steel is very "easy" to sharpen, and the blade shape will be easy to work with on the stone. Plus you can use any combo of your stones to sharpen it since diamonds aren't a necessity with 14C28N.

At the other end of the spectrum would be your Endela in K390. Diamonds will work best, K390 is VERY wear resistant so it will take more time to sharpen, and the blade shape will be trickier to work with, but K390 deburr's SOOO nice which is a big advantage.
 
I dunno if my advice is great or not- I learned to sharpen on more typical edge profiles- but the Mora is a great way to learn geometry. The current bevel itself is very helpful as a guide, and then you can learn about micro bevels, which usually help to support the edge longer. It's easier to stay consistent with the Mora. The steel is also softer (12C27, IIRC), so it's a little more forgiving for new freehanders.

The other thing you'll avoid with the large single bevel is accidently sinking the edge into the potholes in the surface of the DMT stones *assuming they're not continuous stones*. The bevel carries the edge over the holes in the stone because of the support of the total area of the bevel.
 
In general terms, tree-topping hairs is easier by stacking the variables in your favor with:

(1) Narrower edge geometry to start with (had same thought as above about the Mora's narrower geometry working in your favor)...
(2) Simpler, fine-grained steels (again, the Mora likely works in your favor with Sandvik's 12C27 / 14C28N - their process is known for fine grain)...
(3) After working on the stones, stropping on a HARD substrate like hardwood is best, to minimize edge-rounding issues.
 
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EngrSorenson said:
I dunno if my advice is great or not- I learned to sharpen on more typical edge profiles- but the Mora is a great way to learn geometry. The current bevel itself is very helpful as a guide, and then you can learn about micro bevels, which usually help to support the edge longer. It's easier to stay consistent with the Mora. The steel is also softer (12C27, IIRC), so it's a little more forgiving for new freehanders.

The other thing you'll avoid with the large single bevel is accidently sinking the edge into the potholes in the surface of the DMT stones *assuming they're not continuous stones*. The bevel carries the edge over the holes in the stone because of the support of the total area of the bevel.
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My DMT stones are all Dia-Sharp models, which have continuous coatings. I didn't find DMT's marketing regarding the interrupted surfaces on their DuoSharp stones to be convincing. I couldn't get over the nagging feeling that the real purpose of the interrupted surface was slightly reduced cost for consumers and greatly reduced cost for DMT.
 
CutterBoi said:
My DMT stones are all Dia-Sharp models, which have continuous coatings. I didn't find DMT's marketing regarding the interrupted surfaces on their DuoSharp stones to be convincing. I couldn't get over the nagging feeling that the real purpose of the interrupted surface was slightly reduced cost for consumers and greatly reduced cost for DMT.
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Having used both, I feel like the continuous cuts faster, provided you’re using water or oil to help clear away the swarf. I’m not really sure if the interruptions do anything or not, but I am weary of them after having used them for years and finding pitfalls.

Either way though, to your original question, the mora is probably a great knife to learn on.
 
EngrSorenson said:
Having used both, I feel like the continuous cuts faster, provided you’re using water or oil to help clear away the swarf. I’m not really sure if the interruptions do anything or not, but I am weary of them after having used them for years and finding pitfalls.

Either way though, to your original question, the mora is probably a great knife to learn on.
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Excellent. Thank you!
 
My mora sharpened with no micro bevel might be the keenest edge I've gotten. The bad thing is it will roll or chip if you hit anything hard. Without a micro bevel the apex is very thin.
 
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