Which of these diamond sharpening stones would you purchase?

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Aug 16, 2017
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32
1. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-10-DuoSharp-Diamond-Kit-P435C165.aspx

2. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-8-Dia-Sharp-Diamond-Kit-P405.aspx

3. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/4-Stone-DMT-6-Whetstone-Kit-P578C165.aspx

I am looking for a set of stones to use on my pocket knives. I have never freehand sharpened before, so I am looking for a good set to learn on. I want the stones to last at least a year with sharpening a knife 2-3 times a month. I will be learning on a Delica 4 with VG-10 steel before I sharpen my benchmades that have s30v and 20cv. Any input is appreciated, thanks.
 
1. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-10-DuoSharp-Diamond-Kit-P435C165.aspx

2. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-8-Dia-Sharp-Diamond-Kit-P405.aspx

3. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/4-Stone-DMT-6-Whetstone-Kit-P578C165.aspx

I am looking for a set of stones to use on my pocket knives. I have never freehand sharpened before, so I am looking for a good set to learn on. I want the stones to last at least a year with sharpening a knife 2-3 times a month. I will be learning on a Delica 4 with VG-10 steel before I sharpen my benchmades that have s30v and 20cv. Any input is appreciated, thanks.

For what you're needing it for... I'd go with option 3. 10" stones are a bit much (unless you have a need for them), the 8" DiaSharps are nice (and would be my 2nd choice... nothing really wrong with them), but the 6" DMT set is a nice setup, for the knives you're wanting to sharpen.

Personally though, I'd go with Option "4"... and look at the WorkSharp Guided Sharpening System + Upgrade Kit (search WSGSS on the site you linked to). It gives you a complete setup... Diamond stones from XC to XF, leather, ceramic, nice stable base to work from, etc. plus guides to help you learn freehand, and you can remove the guides as your skill level improves. Best setup in this category, IMO.
 
Among those listed, I'd probably go with the 8" 4-hone Dia-Sharp kit (XC, C, F, EF). More bang-for-the-buck there, and 8" hones are plenty big for most any job. The $200+ price tag for the 10" kit kind of knocks me down. Might be worth it, but in my own uses, I'd seldom actually NEED anything that big, for 99% of the sharpening I ever do. As it is, I rarely use the one 8" Duo-Sharp I do have (C/F), but it's a nice luxury when I do. I do most of my sharpening on 6" hones and smaller, including two 6" double-sided Dia-Sharp hones in XC/C & F/EF.


David
 
I want the stones to last at least a year with sharpening a knife 2-3 times a month. I will be learning on a Delica 4 with VG-10 steel before I sharpen my benchmades that have s30v and 20cv. Any input is appreciated, thanks.

FWIW, I have owned the DMT stones for several years, and DMT is a good option. You said you wanted it to last a year, I think the DMT stones could easily last you many many years, especially given the light volume of sharpening you plan to do.

A helpful thing to remember that will increase your stone's life: use light pressure when sharpening. Almost everybody including me has a tendency to press too hard at first, and this not only gives you bad edges, it also accelerates the wear and tear on your diamond stones.
 
The first link
Ahhhhhhh . . . those are lovely stones ! ! !
Truly great, flat, long lasting, consistent grit sizes, very useful for flattening water stones because of the dimples in the surfaces where there are no diamonds.
Totally worth getting.
However . . .
not really for pocket knives. Why :

The dimples catch on the tips of small knives there fore you are better off with flat SMALL stones with no dimples see my comments bellow.

The second link
Yes that is a little more like it. I have those as well. Mine are the ten inch but narrower than the DMT stones in the first link. I found the grit to be more lumpy and less consistent but with LOTS of use they broke in to a nice useful surface.

You should be very happy with those for pocket knives, fixed blade belt knives and all but the largest kitchen knives. Mine have clear rubber feet on the bottom of each stone (keep in mind they are single sided in my experience). They are quite heavy if you are planing on carrying them on trips in your luggage you may prefer the much lighter but still very flat and durable dimpled ones from your first post or see my comments bellow.

The third link
Yes this is closer to what I use for my pocket knives and touching up tools at work (see my comments bellow).
The advantage of this set is you have more knuckle clearance off the table surface while sharpening. I still have the stone right near the edge of a counter or you can use a sink bridge or you can hold the stone in your hand and the knife in the other (see my comments bellow(I bet you are getting tired of reading those words by now))
Disadvantages are the danged dimples and they are not compact for taking with you on trips in fact since they are thick and not double sided they will take up considerable room.

All good choices, can’t go wrong. Buy what you fancy. I have all three to one degree or another.

I was pursuing an impossible dream and just kept buying stuff and throwing it at my problem until I learned better. You won’t have that prob unless you are a hand tool woodworker in that case talk to me about that one.

I want the stones to last at least a year with sharpening a knife 2-3 times a month.

ha, ha I am suppressing a smile here.

Chances are these high quality diamond plates, any of the ones you posted links to, will last the rest of your life. No prob.

So . . . what is all this business of "(see my comments bellow)"?

More and more . . . for hand sharpening smaller pocket knives . . . I use very small stones on the order of three inches long and an inch wide and hand hold the stone in one hand and the knife in the other. I set up a light very close to the edge, a foot away, or sharpen outside in bright sun so I can see the bur and the glint from a dull or dinged edge. I wear a fairly high power jeweler’s visor so I can see what effect I am having.

The more I sharpen the more I am reminded . . . once an edge is the right geometry and has no serious chips or dings . . . bringing an edge back from barely cuts and won’t shave to holy moly that’s sharp and whittles hairs takes VERY FEW . . . SHORT strokes.

For reprofiling and kitchen knives get the big O stones.

For everyday touch up I use these (see link bellow) or merely a Spyderco Ultra Fine ceramic rod and or a little chunk (three inch by one inch) of 8000 Norton water stone and or a little chunk of 4000 Norton water stone if I need to really move some metal.

Mostly you will want the finer stones like these or I also use the two finest stones from the DMT aligner kit but it has those danged round dimples and is not the best held free hand on small knives because the tip catches in the dimples. I find the Aligner isn't much use on small pocket knives; better for large ones. The DMT Aligner optional 8000 diamond stone is lovely and fine though and I use it on my S110V for touch up. The EZ lap paddles don’t go that fine.

The EZ lap paddles are so portable I have them in my back pack every day for use at work. Can even sharpen cobalt drill bits with them (don’t breath the dust).
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002RL83DQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 
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#2 continuous surface. I'm not a fan of interrupted type for knife sharpening.
One of my 6x2 eze-laps is 20+ years old, used at least weekly.
Also have the paddles Mr Bagger mentioned. Use them for all kinds of stuff.
 
1. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-10-DuoSharp-Diamond-Kit-P435C165.aspx

2. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/DMT-8-Dia-Sharp-Diamond-Kit-P405.aspx

3. https://www.sharpeningsupplies.com/4-Stone-DMT-6-Whetstone-Kit-P578C165.aspx

I am looking for a set of stones to use on my pocket knives. I have never freehand sharpened before, so I am looking for a good set to learn on. I want the stones to last at least a year with sharpening a knife 2-3 times a month. I will be learning on a Delica 4 with VG-10 steel before I sharpen my benchmades that have s30v and 20cv. Any input is appreciated, thanks.


I'd probably go with option 3 as its 1/2 the price of the other two and at your intended volume is more than enough quality and variety.

Second choice is option 1 duosharps. I've bought a number of the duo and dia plates over the last two-four years and am not impressed by the plate quality of the diasharps - one had to go back and the replacement was barely good enough to keep. Another croaked in far less time than it should have. They all take a lot more break in time than the Duosharps - I'm not sure if the thinner base plate is easier to get a quality plating job, but my Duosharps were smooth-cutting right out of the box.

The individual interrupted surface hones are more prone to tip catching and this is a valid criticism. The duosharp surface lines up with the plate surface a lot better than on the individual blocks, and I honestly don't have any issues with tips catching.
 
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I have not had an issue with either of the choices - I have noticed too though that the DMT 6 whetstones catch the tip more than the Duosharp. Still, one of my favourite stone is the DMT 6 course block, mainly because you can hold it in your hand so comfortably. Somehow the Dia-sharp have more feedback at least on my well worn 6 inch double sided (extra course + course) stone than the Duosharp, that is true also for my continues diamond sharpening "steel".
So, I think I would go for option #2 actually but I would likely just get the Coarse and extra fine instead of the set but the deal is so good, you might as well. Consider a strop (paper on washboard, denim, balsa, leather, etc.) with diamond or other compounds.
 
The 'tip catching' aspect, noted in regard to the interrupted-surface hones, is something easily adapted to and essentially rendered moot; I've all but written it off as a significant issue at all. If an effort is made to make sure the tip of the blade is always moving in a slightly following (tip trailing) orientation during each sharpening stroke on the stone, and the angle maintained properly (not too steep, heel of the blade not too high), then there's little opportunity for the tip to dig in or snag in the 'holes' on the hone. And I consider it a good approach on any stone, anyway. A pointy tip can still catch and trip up on a standard stone, if it's oriented just a little bit forward (tip leading) during any part of the stroke. Just one lump or high-sitting grain of grit, or a pit or void in the surface, can catch it.

I've snagged and actually damaged a pointy tip only once while working an edge. And ironically, it was on a cardboard strop with an uber-pointy, thin and uber-hard ZDP-189 blade, which resulted in about 1/8" of the tip snapping off when the tip dug in. Best lesson ever, in making sure I keep the tip pointed a little bit rearward on every pass.


David
 
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Yup... if you're "catching the tip" on a DuoSharp... in all likelihood you're grinding that same tip off on a continuous surface stone... even though it may be very slight that you don't notice, over time, you'll see it, (especially if you compare it to a new blade). It might stay "pointy"... but the profile of the blade will change.
 
i like the venev bonded diamond stones. (this is a link for a vendor on this forum) https://www.gritomatic.com/collections/uncategorized-stones/products/8-x-3-dual-side-bonded-diamond

i have them for the KME and like them alot.

the advantage with these are, you can use pressure and the diamonds wont fall off like they will with normal diamond stones. so these will last a lot longer, i think great for beginners. the disadvantages are price, but in the end they will last longer and the grit pattern should stay similar to anew as when the bonded wears new diamonds come up. they have a great wear pattern. also like how they glide on the surface rather than on the rocky surface of a normal diamond stone.

they are not that course tho. f100 is like 500-600 grit (im making that up, but its close around there). so it may not remove as much metal as fast as a very low grit diamond stone. also i do believe they have to be flattened, so you will need a flattening kit for them. and also a stone to clean off the slury.


 
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View attachment 760771 I would get Coarse/Extra Coarse Duo-Sharp in the 8" size and the new H/C (Hard Coat) Fine/Extra Fine Duo-Sharp also in the 8" size. The Coarse/Extra Coarse Duo-Sharps are not yet avaiable in the H/C Hard Coat version. The Hard Coat "stones" are supposed to be more resistant to sloughing Diamond particles. I ask the DMT engineer how the Hard Coat process worked. He said if he told me, he would have to shoot me. It is a trade secret.
 
I used DMT 6" bench stones (med (red) fine (green)) for 25+ years, then gave them to my BIL when I bought an 8" med/fine. Just wipe them down with BreakFree (or scrub lightly with a nylon pad and soap and warm water) when they seem to be loading up.
 
Yup... if you're "catching the tip" on a DuoSharp... in all likelihood you're grinding that same tip off on a continuous surface stone... even though it may be very slight that you don't notice, over time, you'll see it, (especially if you compare it to a new blade). It might stay "pointy"... but the profile of the blade will change.
The 'tip catching' aspect, noted in regard to the interrupted-surface hones, is something easily adapted to and essentially rendered moot; I've all but written it off as a significant issue at all. If an effort is made to make sure the tip of the blade is always moving in a slightly following (tip trailing) orientation during each sharpening stroke on the stone, and the angle maintained properly (not too steep, heel of the blade not too high), then there's little opportunity for the tip to dig in or snag in the 'holes' on the hone. And I consider it a good approach on any stone, anyway. A pointy tip can still catch and trip up on a standard stone, if it's oriented just a little bit forward (tip leading) during any part of the stroke. Just one lump or high-sitting grain of grit, or a pit or void in the surface, can catch it.

I've snagged and actually damaged a pointy tip only once while working an edge. And ironically, it was on a cardboard strop with an uber-pointy, thin and uber-hard ZDP-189 blade, which resulted in about 1/8" of the tip snapping off when the tip dug in. Best lesson ever, in making sure I keep the tip pointed a little bit rearward on every pass.


David

You guys are probably right!
 
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