Which one first? KME or Sharpmaker...

[Pcexbird]

I was very close to purchasing the Sharpmaker yesterday. However once adding in the UF stones it totalled a mere $80 short of the KME system.

This got me thinking...should I be spending this much money on a system that is mainly used to maintain a microbevel or main bevel on an already sharp edge?

I see the potential in the KME system, mainly in reprofiling my edges and sharpening my dull knives into very sharp knives. As for keeping my blades sharp I'm unsure if the KME is meant for that - or can even do that reasonably.

But... Let's take my Spyderco Para 3 for example which came from the factory shaving sharp. It hasn't been used to cut anything but a single sheet of paper so would I really benefit from reprofiling a knife like that?

Would I gain anything by utilizing the KME system as opposed to putting a quick microbevel on with the Sharpmaker? I read that if I went the microbevel route it would eventually become the main bevel and require reprofiling anyways...is this true? Would this suggest the KME may be the best all around option?

Touching up on the KME has me a bit concerned however. Even with accurate records and photographs of blade positioning in the clamps, is touching up on the KME more trouble than it's worth?

What's your take on these issues?

 

[kreisler]

buy both

 

[scottc3]

First get KME's R.P.S.H.: Repair-Profile-Sharpen-Hone kit for $160.00, and match factory or reset edge to your liking on that Para 3. Buy a base next month if you don't like hand holding unit. Grow the kit as you like.

Touching up on the KME has me a bit concerned however. Even with accurate records and photographs of blade positioning in the clamps, is touching up on the KME more trouble than it's worth?

With two good hands it only takes a moment to clamp knives, so this is not a barrier to honing. Once practiced, quick and easy peasy unless your OCD.
I already owned the Sharpmaker, so we created standard edges on KME that were 30 or 40 degrees. I am missing function in one hand, so cleaning up standard edges was easiest on Sharpmaker's 30 and 40 degree slots. Kids started on it with varying degrees of success. The family has several Sharpmaker's now because they are easy to pack, no one resets edges in the field, and you can lay rods in bottom of kit if free handing.

 

[RustyIron]

What's your take on these issues?

I think you've thought it through pretty well. The KME will give you more versatility. The Sharpmaker is a quicker way to obtain reasonable results.

I use an Edge Pro Professional, a guided system that's a little more pricey than the KME, but the idea is similar. I use it exclusively, whether a blade is really goofed up, or if it's already super sharp, but I just want it sharper. It's no big deal, either way. I think it would be a much bigger deal if you have a blade that's damaged, and you want to fix it with the Sharpmaker.