Which products best to prevent corrosion of non-stainless steels?

Rob_Angerer

Rob_Angerer

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Jul 30, 2008
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Which products have you found to be best for preventing oxidation/corrosion of non-stainless steel blades?

This question falls into two camps in my mind:

1. Years ago at a show, Jerry Fisk indicated he was a big fan of Renaissance Wax for preventing corrosion of non-stainless knives. I put this into the category of "preserving show pieces, those that stay in the safe". Wax prevents moisture ingress/egress, and so may also help stabilize woods, ivory's, and horn material from drying out as the humidity changes. Renaissance Wax is very expensive per ounce, but is dead-white, and while damned near any wax would probably serve the same purpose, Renaissance seems to enjoy popularity in knife and antique circles. If "regular old" wax yellows, it can't be that much when on a handle or knife blade or handle.

2. Then there are user knives. Part of my brain says "damned near any oil will help keep corrosion at bay, and proper maintenance consists of cleaning/stripping off sap/blood/food and then hitting with anything, like WD-40" on upwards.

But the other part of my brain would like to know what products you have found to be better than "any old oil" for field user knives. Things like Tuf-Cloth, Corrosion-X, Militec, Breakfree CLP, Birchwood-Casey Sheath, various silicones, etc... could be better.

If you have an opinion, I'd like to hear it.

Thanks
 
I use camelia oil. The biggest thing is to do proper maintenance. I have 2 blades that I have abused the snot out of. One is 5160 and the other is 52100. I use them in the yard to cut brush and general yard maint. I have not cleaned either in over 5 years. They are stained but have not appreciable rust. I have not oiled them or done much maintenance at all. Just cut and put back on the shelf. Now I have also used a kitchen knife that turned black due to the acid int he stuff I was cutting. It did no real damage and it cleaned right off with simichrome. I like the patina and just washed dried and lightly oiled the knife when done using. I used the camelia oil on it and it worked fine. SO long story short, you are right in your thinking, just clean and oil lightly. All will be well.
 
Like Chuck I use Camellia oil, I use to use Ren wax but I use my knives on food and the camellia oil is non toxic.

With proper maintenance and a light coat of oil is all you need in my opinion.
 
I was sold on Corrosion X after being introduced to it by my platoon sergeant on a field exercise a several years back. Just before we headed to the field, we treated all of our .50 cal machineguns. Two weeks later when all of the other platoons were working thier butts off trying to clean the orange rust off of thier .50 cals, we simply wiped ours down and were heading out for a cold one within 30 minutes. The other guys spent hours cleaning. I've been using the stuff on my using knives ever since.
 
Excellent input guys... keep it rolling.

I find the Tuf Cloth stuff to be a bit chemical-smelling, a bit stinky, but not so much after it's dried.
 
murphda2 said:
I was sold on Corrosion X after being introduced to it by my platoon sergeant on a field exercise a several years back. Just before we headed to the field, we treated all of our .50 cal machineguns. Two weeks later when all of the other platoons were working thier butts off trying to clean the orange rust off of thier .50 cals, we simply wiped ours down and were heading out for a cold one within 30 minutes. The other guys spent hours cleaning. I've been using the stuff on my using knives ever since.
Click to expand...

In the civi would,this is called FP-10 from shooters choice. It is used in sand land for prevention of jams in the fine sand.


It works! I carry a blued carbon steel Les Baer 1911 every day here in hot, humid Texas, under my shirt. Not one spot of rust, or shadowing in 5 years of daily carry.

MIke
Maker
The Loveless Connection Knives
 
Do a net search for EEZOX. On one of the forums there is a test I read with many different oils and protectants used very close to the ocean.

EEZOX out performed all of them in corrosion resistence. I bought some. It goes on wet but them dries to a film, and seems to be working well.
 
So where do you get camellia oil from?

When I googled it I get health and booty :eek: products. Are you trying to tell me I can go to one of those beauty shops in the mall and just buy a bottle of camellia oil and thats what I need to coat my knives with? :confused: :D
 
I'm with Rusty on the ballistol. I'm sure all are good products but the main reason I like ballistol is because it works well on everything, steel, synthetics, even wood & leather.
 
Here's an extension to the original question. Is there anything that you should put on the sheath leather, to keep it from rusting when stored in the sheath?
 
Emphasiski said:
Here's an extension to the original question. Is there anything that you should put on the sheath leather, to keep it from rusting when stored in the sheath?
Click to expand...

Balistol, wont hurt the leather and can be used on leather. I was turned on to this by Kenny Rowe a great sheath and leather man known to most knife people. When someone sends him a knife for a sheath the first thing it gets is a liberal coating of balistol. He does sheaths for some very well known makers and they trust him not to return thier blades rusted or tarnished. That's what made me start using it and recomending it as well.
 
Ballistol is slightly alkaline. Which when used on the inside of a leather sheath neutralizes the tannic acid which causes corrosion when steel stays in contact with untreated leather for any length of time. Hope that makes sense.
 
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