I have a decent frame saw i picked up years ago for cutting deadfall into firewood. It's always worked fine, but it's pretty dinged up and i'm considering buying a new saw. I've looked at some of the 'folders' and other saws, and i've seen a few things about these new 'pocket chain saws'. Has anyone used one of these? I'm wondering about how they compare to other saws, and peoples's saw experience in general. I'm mostly just hacking up 3 inch to 6 inch deadfall logs. Any recommendations?
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Which saw is best?
- Thread starter Foxer
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Cliff Stamp
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A Japanese folder pruning saw works well on hard woods, but will get bogged down on large sappy fresh woods unless the tooth count is low, 4.5 tpi or similar is best. Moving up to frame saws, get a swede saw blade and a 6" piece of wood isn't a lot more than a few passes. The Trailblazer is a decent such saw. There was a thread on the Axe forum started by Jimbo awhile back which contains solid info. The wire saws and such have a much lower performance than a quality pruning saw, it is a many to one difference. Their only advantages are the much lower space required to cut them, and that they can cut odd things like roots without excessive tooth damage.
-Cliff
-Cliff
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I have one of the pocket chainsaws that is made out of links and teeth---looks like a bicycle chain. It cuts much better than the wire saws but is, of course, heavier.
I've used one of these (the TM kind, comes in a little round tin, got nice reviews over on Doug Ritter's Equipped to Survive site) the last two times I went car camping. I can get through a 3" diameter branch (dead but not all that dry) in maybe five minutes. The kids in the next site were working away at a (much too large) fallen tree with a bow saw. That kept binding up, then it bent. Four of us took shifts with the chain and finished the kid's cut in about thirty minutes. Bound very rarely, and only at the beginning.
I'm keeping mine in the car. I don't worry about the weight, and probably wouldn't take it backpacking, cause I'm a leave-no-trace leaning gal. On the other hand, if Atlanta has any more of our tree-felling weather, I'll be prepared to clear roads with the big boys.
Kathy
I'm keeping mine in the car. I don't worry about the weight, and probably wouldn't take it backpacking, cause I'm a leave-no-trace leaning gal. On the other hand, if Atlanta has any more of our tree-felling weather, I'll be prepared to clear roads with the big boys.
Kathy
I have a Sven saw and a small folding saw designed to take reciprocating saw blades. The sven saw folds out into a nice bow saw, and weighs the same as the good pocket chainsaws, but is close to two feet long, though only an inch or so by a fraction. It cuts very nicely, and the binding/bending mentioned earlier is from poor equipment/technique, not necessarily inherent to using all bow saws.
The little folding saw is shorter, with about a 6 inch blade, but I can bring a couple blades with me; metal, wood, big teeth, small teeth, and even a carbide tipped saw if I wanted it. The blades are cheap and easily replaceable.
Stryver
The little folding saw is shorter, with about a 6 inch blade, but I can bring a couple blades with me; metal, wood, big teeth, small teeth, and even a carbide tipped saw if I wanted it. The blades are cheap and easily replaceable.
Stryver
Interesting - i've yet to bend a blade myself but i sure have come close a few times. I've seen others bend theirs. I'm just cutting smaller deadfall or driftwood (never live) trees and branches of about 3-5 inches. Good point to consider tho.
You mentioned it took you 5 mins? The websites claim a 3 inch tree can be cut in closer to 10 secs
heh - probably rather ideal circumstances and they've probably got 'bruno the human ox' doing the testing. I've heard and read a lot of good things about the Sven and trailblazer types, but it's hard to compare and I don't really want to drop 25 bucks on each to find out myself. Has anyone read a comparison, or tried both themselves on smaller deadfall?
You mentioned it took you 5 mins? The websites claim a 3 inch tree can be cut in closer to 10 secs
heh - probably rather ideal circumstances and they've probably got 'bruno the human ox' doing the testing. I've heard and read a lot of good things about the Sven and trailblazer types, but it's hard to compare and I don't really want to drop 25 bucks on each to find out myself. Has anyone read a comparison, or tried both themselves on smaller deadfall?- Joined
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I bought a very light simple folding saw from OSH for about $12! Wooden handle, blade about 11" long, teeth very large. Cuts through just about everything very quickly. Won't take it with me if I'm packing tight in which case my SAK saw will have to do, but if I have extra room, this saw is perfect for while it takes up some space, it is very light.
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I'm also surprised at the sawing times reported by netspinx. I'm wondering if she got a pocket chainsaw that wasn't adequately sharpened at the factory. Mine is WAY faster than that. It might be worth having a dealer check it out.
Cliff Stamp
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The cutting speed is basically proportional to the force you exert down onto the saw, and how fast you pull it through the wood, complications can arise though if you exceed the stiffness of the blade. Different wood types can also effect sawing speeds by many to one factors.
-Cliff
-Cliff
Netsphinx - perhaps you should put the loops on your toes and thread the chain OVER the wood A little light jogging in place and you could cut up a log in seconds (heh)
seriously - i suspect if you got some purchase with your legs and used them to apply the pressure and just focused your arms on moving the saw back and forth it might help. But i still think it sounds like something may be wrong with the blade. I could get thru 3 inches with my old wire saw (cheap stocking stuffer from mom) when i was a kid faster than 5 mins, and you HAVE to be stronger than i was then. And using a chain, you should be able to beat that time by a fair bit.
I think i rememeber reading the chains work better on harder woods, but i'm not sure.
It's sure looking like a trailblazer with a wood saw blade is the way to go if weight isn't your overriding concern (i doubt i'll ever cut anything more than 6 or 7 inches, and rarely more than 3 or 4.) i just want something fast to get the firewood out of the way quickly, but something that gets out of the way when it's not in use. The chains sound pretty good, but i think that they'll not perform quite as well.
I suppose i could get a small gas chainsaw and be done with it somehow tho the thought of revving up a gas engine just kind of defeats the purpose of going into the woods to begin with - and i wouldn't want to haul it and it's fuel everywhere i go anyway.
A little light jogging in place and you could cut up a log in seconds (heh)seriously - i suspect if you got some purchase with your legs and used them to apply the pressure and just focused your arms on moving the saw back and forth it might help. But i still think it sounds like something may be wrong with the blade. I could get thru 3 inches with my old wire saw (cheap stocking stuffer from mom) when i was a kid faster than 5 mins, and you HAVE to be stronger than i was then. And using a chain, you should be able to beat that time by a fair bit.
I think i rememeber reading the chains work better on harder woods, but i'm not sure.
It's sure looking like a trailblazer with a wood saw blade is the way to go if weight isn't your overriding concern (i doubt i'll ever cut anything more than 6 or 7 inches, and rarely more than 3 or 4.) i just want something fast to get the firewood out of the way quickly, but something that gets out of the way when it's not in use. The chains sound pretty good, but i think that they'll not perform quite as well.
I suppose i could get a small gas chainsaw and be done with it
somehow tho the thought of revving up a gas engine just kind of defeats the purpose of going into the woods to begin with - and i wouldn't want to haul it and it's fuel everywhere i go anyway.
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I once used a BCB wire saw out of my kit to cut a burl from the side of a Beech tree (about 7" in diameter) took near on an hour! The wire saw was all I had with me at the time, but it worked. I carry a Laplander folding saw made by Sandvik when I know I will be cutting wood, cuts very fast.
Whatever saw you choose though make sure the teeth protrude slightly wider than the rest of the blade, some cheaper models don't but that is what makes good saws work.
Will
Whatever saw you choose though make sure the teeth protrude slightly wider than the rest of the blade, some cheaper models don't but that is what makes good saws work.
Will
thanks will! - i hadn't heard that before. So the teeth should be slightly thicker than the blade? or bent slightly i guess to create the effect? or do you mean they should protrude slightly below the blade?
I'd heard that using a wax candle stub to rub just a little wax on the blade before starting helps too.
I'd heard that using a wax candle stub to rub just a little wax on the blade before starting helps too.
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Foxer,
If you have any new hack saw blades or similar knocking about examine that closely, you should see what I mean.
Some saws have a few teeth bent out slightly, and the best have a harder metal welded onto the edge which makes them wider.
Its not usally every tooth, but rather a pattern. All saws work best by cutting a groove wider than the rest of the blade. Iv'e allways wondered why this design isn't incorperated into SAK's, Leathermans, etc.
Will
If you have any new hack saw blades or similar knocking about examine that closely, you should see what I mean.
Some saws have a few teeth bent out slightly, and the best have a harder metal welded onto the edge which makes them wider.
Its not usally every tooth, but rather a pattern. All saws work best by cutting a groove wider than the rest of the blade. Iv'e allways wondered why this design isn't incorperated into SAK's, Leathermans, etc.
Will
Cliff Stamp
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will :
[tooth set]
Probably because it would cost more. It would also make the blade wider. As well, on such short blades you don't need such a wide track as they are only used on small wood. Note as well that they do in fact have a similar mechanism at work which is that the blade is tapered from the edge to the spine.
-Cliff
[tooth set]
Probably because it would cost more. It would also make the blade wider. As well, on such short blades you don't need such a wide track as they are only used on small wood. Note as well that they do in fact have a similar mechanism at work which is that the blade is tapered from the edge to the spine.
-Cliff
Here's a nice way to get the most out of the small chain-type saws.
Put (tie, attach) a stick in the loop at each end, a stick you can hold with both hands.
Thread the saw under the log, and entice a friend to work the other end of the chain with you.
Much like an upside-down version of them big two-people saws. Cut's very nice, and quick. It does take a wee bit of coordination, though. Also enables you to use your upper body, and even legs if you really get into it.
Stryver
Put (tie, attach) a stick in the loop at each end, a stick you can hold with both hands.
Thread the saw under the log, and entice a friend to work the other end of the chain with you.
Much like an upside-down version of them big two-people saws. Cut's very nice, and quick. It does take a wee bit of coordination, though. Also enables you to use your upper body, and even legs if you really get into it.
Stryver