which sharpener

C

Crookshanks

Joined
Oct 20, 2002
Messages
52
Hi, all.
I've been occasionally lurking for over a year. I dropped by a couple of weeks ago, to search for threads on sharpeners. Wasn't able to search, so I registered. Still wasn't able to search. I finally found the anouncement about the search function being temporarily (I hope) disabled.
So I have no choice but to start a thread on what I imagine is a reoccurring subject.
Sort of like a newbie asking what BTT means.

I've used a Lansky diamond kit for several years, with good results. A year ago, I bought an Al Mar Auto-SEAR. It's made with ATS-34, as I'm sure most of you know. I am not able to get my knife as sharp as I'd like, and it seems to me as if the Lansky takes off way too much steel.
Is this common with ATS-34? I don't have the same problem using the diamond Lansky on other knives. Maybe a stone Lansky kit would be better for the Al Mar. What do you think?
I'm looking at the DMT aligner kit as a possibility. I would appreciate any input on DMT kits.
I'd be interested in recommendations on other sharpeners. I have the Spyderco Sharpmaker kit and don't really like it. Maybe I should practice with it on some inexpensive knives. But when I used it on my Al Mar, I screwed up the tip.
 
I never had any luck with the Lansky kits myself. I ponied up and bought an Edgepro Apex. I have have great success with it in a very short amount of time. It sharpened up my BM800 which is ATS-34 steel very easily. If you're in the market for a new sharpener they're at least worth a look. :)
 
The Lansky will get a knife as sharp as it can be. The only requirement is to first grind the bevels to one of the set angles using a coarse grit stone. Once this is done, the system will maintain them fairly easily. The Lansy won't work at all if you don't regrind the bevels unless you happen to luck out and use it on a knife with one of the set angles already ground on it.

The Edgepro mentioned above is about 4 times the price but it is faster (waterstones) has infinitely adjustable angles and is easier to use with a number of knives because the setup between blades is just a matter of adjusting the fence and angle (if necessary.) I've been using the Edgepro myself lately for regrinding bevels on the hard steel Japanese kitchen knives. Every owner of this kind of knife should have an edgepro. There is nothing better short of a power belt grinder. I go through a handful of coarse grit stones with it each week but customers are paying for it. Once the bevels are ground, maintenance is very easy and fast with the Edgepro. Take care.

The DMT aligner is basically a knockoff of the Lansky. It is fine, in opinion.
 
For some strange reason, I think that the DMT diamond hones are way better than the Lansky ones. I think it has something to do with the fact that my Lansky hones worn smooth in less than 10 knife sharpenings. Maybe I was applying too much pressure, though I doubt it.

The EdgePro Apex is probably the best, judging by all the good reports it gets, but I've never been able to justify getting it. For one thing, I'll have to replace the waterstones once in a while. Since this will involve overseas shipping and a strong greenback against the aussie dollar, the running cost becomes prohisive, not to mention the original purchase price.

Right now, I use a combination of the DMT Aligner and Spyderco Sharpmaker. The DMT does the heavy stuff (dings, chips, re-beveling) and the Sharpmaker does the final polish and maintainence. It's a working combination and my local stores sell replacement hones at a reasonable price should the DMT hones wear out. At the moment, I very rarely use the aligner function, relying more on free-hand, but the aligner is good as it provides me a handle for the hones.
 
Steelwolf :

[Edge Pro]

I'll have to replace the waterstones once in a while.
Click to expand...

The only ones that wear significantly are the coarse ones, everything else just has to polish a set of scratches which takes few passes. I would also recommend cutting the bevels first by freehand methods as shaping doesn't need to be that accurate. This will save wear on the coarse hones and save you *much* time. However even if you don't do this and just use the coarse hones, with regular lapping you are looking at *many* sharpenings before it needs to be replaced.

-Cliff
 
Thanks Cliff. So I might only have to replace the coarse stone on a regular basis, but even that would not be very often? I wonder if anyone can give an indication of how long it takes to wear. Also how often does one need to resurface the stone (I understand that waterstones will wear and needs periodic grinding to flatten the contact surface).

I might reconsider the EdgePro, though there still aren't any local retailers for it, it is still quite expensive, and I already have a working system.
 
I finally bought an Edge Pro 2 weeks ago, Seein' as how huntin' seasons comming up fast I've been busy sharpening all the locals hunting knives.

I've tried Lansky, alright system but it's shortcomming is that the stones are reaaly to small for average sized knives. Also the jig that is used can't replicate a factory angle like the Edge Pro, the wider the blade the more it changes the angle, sometimes you wind up reprofiling the whole edge just to get it thin enough.

The jig in the Lansky holds the knife stationary, so as you move the stone closer to the tip/point of the blade, it tends to make the final bevel more accute, giving the apperance that the bevel gets wider near the tip, geometry, what a bitch.

SPYDERCO Triangle sharpeners are great I keep one in my kitchen to do fast touch ups on the kitchen knives. Not good for heavy reprofiling,(unless you use the diamond sleeves), also your limited to 2 angles which means unless your knife was factory sharpened at one of those you'll wind up eventualy reprofiling the edge, which on Sharpmaker, or 204 could take a while.

Freehand on a 6" or 8" stone/hone seems to always work best in the field or at home, it's easy, convienient, requires no set up, and little training, just lots of practice.

The Edge Pro is another animal altogether this guy has managed to take the best of all methods out there and combined them into a super system. Mind you it does take some getting used to and practice but it's well worth the results. :)
 
Steelwolf :

... how long it takes to wear
Click to expand...

How many knives can you sharpen on a hone before you remove 1/4" of abrasive from it, that is what you have to do to wear out the stone. If you use something else for the shaping, you will never wear it out.

how often does one need to resurface the stone
Click to expand...

Depending on the extent of use, every few times for the coarse hone. Take a ruler and lay the edge across the surface. When you can see a slight hollow under the ruler then it is time to lap the stone flat.

Ben supplies sand for lapping but it goes much faster on a concrete brick that is loaded with SiC lapping compound.

-Cliff
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top