Which sharpener?

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Jun 26, 2009
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So my knife collection has grown to a decent size and with constant use, some of my knives have started needing some attention. I have the basic whetstone but it is impossible to get a factory like sharp edge which looks clean too.

So my question is, which sharpmaker can help me get back the same clean and sharp edge on the knives?
 
You can get the complete DMT aligner kit for around $70 and have perfect razor sharp edges. If you want something a little more freehand the basic spyderco sharpmaker starts around $50, diamond and UF rods are extra.

If your sharpening experience is limited I would suggest the DMT first.
 
after using kits, I would say get some diamond benchstones and learn to do it by hand.

the spyderco sharpmaker and dmt aligner are both great kits though. the aligner will work much faster than a lansky, being that it uses diamond hones.
 
You can get the complete DMT aligner kit for around $70 and have perfect razor sharp edges. If you want something a little more freehand the basic spyderco sharpmaker starts around $50, diamond and UF rods are extra.

If your sharpening experience is limited I would suggest the DMT first.

Another thing to consider is that if you want to restore factory edges, you're going to need a system that gives you a lot of flexibility in setting the angles at which you sharpen your knives. The Spyderco Sharpmaker, while an excellent touchup system, is limited to two angles in most cases (30 deg incl & 40 deg incl). If you're really good with it you can cheat a bit to get some in-between angles, but a system like the DMT or the Edge Pro is going to be much more flexible in terms of matching the factory's original edge angles.

Another good reason to learn to sharpen freehand :D
 
You can get the complete DMT aligner kit for around $70 and have perfect razor sharp edges. If you want something a little more freehand the basic spyderco sharpmaker starts around $50, diamond and UF rods are extra.

If your sharpening experience is limited I would suggest the DMT first.

Hmmm, I have been looking around and have found the DMT Deluxe Aligner Kit with 3 diamond stones for $43 and the Deluxe 4 Hone Kit for $56. I am seriously tempted to get one of these both for the knives I have now and for any knives I get in the future. There is something very satisfying about having knives that are shaving sharp and keeping your knives in good condition is always a good idea.

The 7 different angles is good and keeping a consistent angle is something I probably can't do freehand.
 
You can get the DMT aligner clamp alone for less than $15, and use it with wet/dry sandpaper. That will give you a much wider choice of grits while saving money too. Use Emery cloth for doing your profiling and then follow with the wet/dry papers. You still get to choose your desired angles, and can use a large sheet of paper rather than a small stone. Because of the larger size, it's almost as fast as diamonds but as cheap as paper!

Just be sure to keep the angle guide OFF the paper while you work so as not to wear it away. I use a piece of plate glass under the paper to keep it flat and smooth.

Stitchawl
 
i thought i would hijack this thread instead of starting another one.
I think i'm in a similar predicament compared to OP but maybe one step ahead.
I've got a Gatco kit, I've been happy with it so far, but I would like to kick it up another notch, and increase my skill set with freehand sharpening.

Can anyone suggest the most logical next step?
I was thinking of keeping the Gatco and getting a couple of high grit waterstones for edge finishing and then getting a strop.
or, should i just bite the bullet and start building a full waterstone or DMT set?
 
i thought i would hijack this thread instead of starting another one.
I think i'm in a similar predicament compared to OP but maybe one step ahead.
I've got a Gatco kit, I've been happy with it so far, but I would like to kick it up another notch, and increase my skill set with freehand sharpening.

Can anyone suggest the most logical next step?
I was thinking of keeping the Gatco and getting a couple of high grit waterstones for edge finishing and then getting a strop.
or, should i just bite the bullet and start building a full waterstone or DMT set?


Aligner clamp and DMT benchstones, The clamp will teach you the way and the stones will be their when you don't need the clamp anymore.
 
Doing it freehand is a large part of this hobby, for ME. Just practice. You'll be good at it after a few days of sharpening. Start with cheap blades though.
 
lately ive been freehanding on the gatco stones and can get pretty much the same results i would using the clamp. So i guess im at least alright at holding a consistent angle.
 
lately ive been freehanding on the gatco stones and can get pretty much the same results i would using the clamp. So i guess im at least alright at holding a consistent angle.

Why not get the GATCO diamond stones? That way you'll have the choice of using the clamp or free-handing with faster cutting surfaces. :)

Stitchawl
 
I tried to do freehand using an Arkansas/carborundum stone but ended up with a sharp but weird looking edge as i couldnt maintain the angle. There is lot of scope for human error using freehand or am i doing something wrong? What i want is an edge as sharp or more than what came from the factory and one which looks as clean too. Is it doable?
 
An edge sharpened by hand wont look the same as a edge produced by a clamp system for most people. For me there is 3 ways i sharpen a knife, 1-use a dmt course stone to knock down the shoulders and finish with the brown ceramics on the sharpmaker.2-dmt blue, then raise spine slightly and finish on dmt red.3-convex off of mouse pad with wet-dry, and finish with a strop. All of my knives are convexed, however the other methods will work very well, and are the quickest ways too sharpen ive found yet. You will have to figure which way works for you, read as much as possible, then give her hell.
 
I'm surprised that this thread has gone on for almost a week with nobody recommending the EdgePro ( http://www.edgeproinc.com/ ). Yeah, it's a bit pricey, but it's easy to learn and produces edges that are very sharp and very clean looking.

Over the years I've collected dozens of different stones and gadgets and I've learned to sharpen free-hand as well, but the EdgePro has become my preferred edge forming tool. I do most of my quick touch-ups with a Spyderco Sharpmaker.
 
I tried to do freehand using an Arkansas/carborundum stone but ended up with a sharp but weird looking edge as i couldnt maintain the angle. There is lot of scope for human error using freehand or am i doing something wrong? What i want is an edge as sharp or more than what came from the factory and one which looks as clean too. Is it doable?

Yes, there is a lot of room for human error when freehanding. I think there are two *basic* ways of freehanding.

1. Trying to approximate the original factory edge angle.
2. Deciding on a new angle and sticking to it.

In my limited experience, I've found that people new to sharpening are better at #1 than #2. That really surprised me as I expected it to be the other way around.

Anyway, holding the same angle consistently is a big part of the equation, *especially* if you are trying to keep your edges "pretty". As I understand it, most factory edges are formed on either belt sanders or wheels, both of which give a very consistent angle very quickly. It's much harder to do that with your hand and a stone.

Tips for maintaining the same angle:

1. Watch the blade and try to memorize what it looks like when it is "at the right angle". Try to keep it that way on every stroke.
2. Keep your hand in the same position on the handle/spine/whatever so you can feel the same thing every time. Finding some point of reference with some part of your hand, either on the stone, on a table, etc may help you to start at the exact same angle for each stroke.
3. Feel the way the blade scrapes across the stone. If you vary the angle, the feeling will change. That's one indicator that you are either on the right track (angle) or not.

Here's a big one that a lot of beginners miss: If your blade has any curve to it, you must raise the handle of the knife and you go through the curve in order to maintain the same angle. How much? There's a geometric explanation that's going to be hard to type and hard to understand. Here's the easier way: Fold up a wedge of paper. If you fold over the corner of a piece of printer paper you'll get a perfect 45 degree angle. Fold it over again and you'll get 22.5 degrees, which is great for this experiment. Trim the wedge down if you need to for easy handling.

Put the wedge on the stone and lay the blade on it, using the wedge as your angle reference. The edge of the knife should be touching the stone and the side of the knife should be laying on the wedge.

If you hold the back part of the blade (near the handle) on it, you'll see what 22.5 degrees looks like for the straight part of the blade. Now move the blade so the middle part (where the blade edge is still not curved) onto the wedge. The angle should look similar and the handle should be in about the same position in terms of height. Now move the blade so the part where the curve starts is on the wedge. The handle should be higher now. Keep moving the blade so the curved part is on the wedge. The handle should be noticeably higher now. Keep moving it all the way out to the tip. The handle should be pretty high at this point.

That's how high the handle should be at each point along the curve of the blade in order to maintain a constant angle. You'll get used to it both visually, and from a feeling standpoint.

You'll need to learn to see and feel this both directions: When you're stroking away from you and when you're stroking towards you.

I pretty much disregard the factory angle on most knives now. I use paper wedges for references and just put a new angle on the blade, trying to keep it constant.

So that's the Angle fundamental. The two other fundamentals of sharpening are Abrasive and Burr. AAB. Angle, Abrasive, and Burr. You need to learn all three in order to be proficient at sharpening.

If you want to know more, I can provide some links, or give some more info myself. I'm sure many others here can help too. I'm practically a kindergartner compared to a lot of people here.

Brian.
 
I'm surprised that this thread has gone on for almost a week with nobody recommending the EdgePro ( http://www.edgeproinc.com/ ). Yeah, it's a bit pricey, but it's easy to learn and produces edges that are very sharp and very clean looking.

Over the years I've collected dozens of different stones and gadgets and I've learned to sharpen free-hand as well, but the EdgePro has become my preferred edge forming tool. I do most of my quick touch-ups with a Spyderco Sharpmaker.

Very pricey, a bit of a task to setup and take down, and in my opinion doesn't offer the same amount of flexibility as other methods.

I'm a Sharpmaker guy. I have a DMT stone that I use for aggressively changing bevels, but other then that I have had no problems using the Sharpmaker. Plus it will do Hawkbills. ;)
 
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