Which stones?

A

Atama

Basic Member
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Mar 9, 2009
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Hi all,
I am about to purchase a new set of sharpening stones, but wanted to ask some questions first. I am considering buying a set of 8x3 DMT Diasharps, in course, fine, extra fine, and extra extra fine. My first question is, would regular waterstones do the same job, at a better price? Secondly, for those who have these stones, how were the break in and learning curves with them? Years ago I sharpened all my pocket knives by hand with a whetsone, but for the last several years have gotten lazy and used a lansky. I am becoming dis-satisfied with it now, and want to go back to bench stones. If it makes a diffence most of my knives will be in one of the folowing steels: 3V, S30V, CPM154 (ATS34), and O1 (probably will be some ESEE's tossed in for good measure). Lastly, can I use these stones to get "hair-popping" edges on these blades?

Thanks for your help!
 
Is the EEF stone worth the $70+ price tag? Or would I be just as well off stropping with CrO2?
 
I think the pictures speak for themselves.
 
The 8x3 stones are a good choice, although I much prefer the 11.5x2.5 stones. You get a lot more done per stroke.

Break-in for the diasharps take a while. I would keep an old stone handy if you want a razor sharp edge while your DMTs are breaking in. After about 9 months or so, my EF stone is well-broken in now and I can split coarse hairs after using it. At first, however, I couldn't get an edge much sharper than my F stone at the time.

More recently, I got an F 11.5x2.5 stone about a month ago. It has not yet broken in. At first, it was more like a coarse stone. Now it is much finer, but I still can't really get a razor edge on it. I suspect I will be able to get a good edge in another month or so. Yes, the break-in period does seem to take a while, especially with the diasharps (knifenut agreed that the perforated stones seem to break in faster.)

In the end, though, I think you'll find that it's worth it. There is less mess with diamonds stones, diamonds do well on even the harder steels, and they'll last forever.
 
I'm in the process of looking at stones as well.

I've got the Spyderco Sharpener, and it's pretty good, especially on my Spyderco knives, but trying to fix some really damaged kitchen knives for a mate, and a couple of other ones that aren't quite the same angle it's struggled a bit.

Being in Australia I'm having a bit of trouble finding places to buy some of the stones.

I'm wondering if I should get some of these Shapton Glass stones, or stick to the DMT Whetstones or the DMT Diasharp stones.

I saw the King Japanese Stones but I don't want to make that much of a mess.

Just wondering which grits I should kind of start with on the DMT's or SHaptons.
 
Start with the coarsest grit, the DMT XXC is a must. It sets bevels fast and doubles as a flattening stone. After that, it's a matter of how much feedback you need, and how much convenience you need (they all have their own little quirks), because all the quality stones cut fast. Some stones are better at telling you if you're honing the edge than others.

If you're in Australia, you can get it from this guy named So. He has a website.
 
I hear you guys mentioning the breaking in of Diasharps, what effect does using a non-broken in Diasharp have?

I ask this because I just got my set of Diasharps (XC, F, EF, EEF) and have been trying them out for a couple days and I just can't seem to get any knives sharp enough to shave. I can get my knives sharp enough to shave a few hairs here and there, but not what I'd call acceptable. However, if I take a knife I finished sharpening on the DMT's to a Sharpmaker at 30 degrees for a quick touchup, the knives are easily able to whittle hairs (never got knives this sharp before). I assumed I was doing something wrong on the stones, but could it be that the stones simply need to break in?
 
Before break-in the DMTs are just very coarse, which readily form burrs. You can do burr removal and then just a few light strokes on the EEF. It should shave your arm hairs cleanly.
 
Edges get much sharper after break-in, check my above link.

I will be having a thread showing sharpening with diamonds very soon, keep a eye out ;)
 
A buddy of mine has a metal shop, and I could probably get some scraps of steel plate from him. Could I just trun the stones over on it and rub the stone on it in a figure 8 pattern to break it in faster?
 
Not a good idea unless the plate has been milled very flat.
 
kya said:
I hear you guys mentioning the breaking in of Diasharps, what effect does using a non-broken in Diasharp have?

I ask this because I just got my set of Diasharps (XC, F, EF, EEF) and have been trying them out for a couple days and I just can't seem to get any knives sharp enough to shave. I can get my knives sharp enough to shave a few hairs here and there, but not what I'd call acceptable. However, if I take a knife I finished sharpening on the DMT's to a Sharpmaker at 30 degrees for a quick touchup, the knives are easily able to whittle hairs (never got knives this sharp before). I assumed I was doing something wrong on the stones, but could it be that the stones simply need to break in?
Click to expand...

I've had my F 11.5 x 2.5 stone for a month or so now, and I can't get it to shave yet. My F 6x2 "DMT Whetstone" I used to have could easily shave hairs before I got rid of it (I had it for over a year.)

My EF 6x2 stone is about 10 months old or so. At first, it gave me a worse edge than the aforementioned F 6x2 stone, and I was very disappointed, but I can split coarse hairs with it now. Just to give you an idea.

I probably said all this a couple posts up, didn't I? lol

knifenut1013 said:
Not a good idea unless the plate has been milled very flat.
Click to expand...

And I'm thinking that the plate would have to have a hardness on the order of a knife (with hardened steel, obviously.)
 
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