Which to get, I want a Kukri.

sumoj275

sumoj275

Joined
Mar 18, 2007
Messages
663
I have always been intrigued by the kukri, especially since I was a kid and heard stories of their use from my great-uncle who was a WWII veteran.

Now, I know I like the following models:
WWII
British Army Service
M43

I will be using it as a tool, and as a companion piece to a Enfield Jungle Carbine or L1A1 (which ever I carry that day). I have no experience with the kukri except one of the cheap Indian CS imports that did not have an edge. Now that I know better, what would you suggest? I live in Oklahoma so a lot of the wood I would be chopping is knotty since scrub oak is our #1 tree along with ceders. Would horn or wood be the better material for the grip?

Thanks for your attention and input.
 
I'd also like to plug in the GRS. Ganga Ram Special. Here's a 15" chopperific speciman.

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You are asking the age old question. The three you mentioned are popular, and all three are warrantied for field use, which is what you would want for what sounds like the intended purpose. It is funny, because when I started looking at khuks I was primarily interested in a British Army Service, and now I have three and none of them are a BAS.

The first one I got was an 18" GRS at 34 oz. The handle was a bit big for my hand, so I trimmed it down to fit better (it was wood, so not anything too complicated). It is a great heavy chopper.

The second I got was an M-43 (18", 32 oz, wood handle), and I also really like it. The handle on it is also a little big for my hand, and this weekend I am going to go at it with a file and trim it down some to fit better.

I just picked up a Gelbu Special (18", 25-30 oz, wood handle), and haven't had a chance to chop with it (just got it yesterday) but of the three it felt the best in my hand from the box in terms of handle size, and is nice to swing around (though it isn't warrantied for field use).

A lot of it is going to come down to personal preference and you. A lot of people like the 18" or bigger, but depending on the blade you can be talking of a knife weighing 2 lbs or more. Your stature, physical conditioning, age, amount of use, etc can/will all play a part in what feels right. I used my GRS and M43 to clear a tree that fell in my yard. I'm 30, 6', 190 lbs, and in decent physical shape and swung the two of them around (alternating to work each one since they cut differently) and worked for about 4 hours.

I don't have any first hand experience with the WWII, but I know you can get it in the 16" model around 1 1/2 lbs (24 oz). The BAS (again no experience) is going to be around 15" and 21-24 oz. I still intent to get my BAS at some point, but every time I go to order something comes up. I like my 18" khuks, but would also like a shorter one as well. The Ang Khola or Chiruwa Ang Khola are other options. You can get them in 15", and they will be similar to the BAS (the CAK will probably be a little heavier). The AK is the #1 seller.

Handle-wise is more a matter of personal preference. I like the wood handles because I feel more comfortable working on them if I think they are too big or get dinged (and I really like wood handles). Horn handles are as durable, and if you take care of either material (different oils for wood or hoof-flex for horn, etc) both should last a long time.

So the short answer is, it depends.

If you are going to be doing a lot of hiking/backpacking/general carrying, the less weight you carry in the less weight you carry out. I personally don't plan on ever getting anything over 34 oz, just because I think that is my limit in terms of weight that is useful.
 
The WWII is a fantastic model. I prefer ones that are more of a fighting knife, so I'm personally running with an Ultimate Fighter 18" model (actually, I have two, one in wildmanh's shop for what's going to be a SWEET sheath). But due to the sharpened swedge, it's not quite as functional a camp knife, if you're the kind of person who would baton it. Not like you need to, but yea.

I prefer the wood handles myself.

Truth be told, I'd recommend you get the one you like the looks of the most. Any HI, even a chitlangi or sirupati, will work just fine as a chopper. I'd get the one that you THINK will be your favorite. You may discover that you need to get other ones when you see new models. It's pretty much impossible to buy only one HI.
 
any of those three knives will be excellent choices, it all comes down to what you prefer, unfortunately (or fortunately) the best way to figure out whether you prefer a WWII or a BAS when they are so subtly different is to buy several of both.... which isnt always an option.

I would suggest a WWII to go with your jungle carbine, the old style fighting knife to go with the classic Enfield, but if you cant make up your mind the next best thing is to lurk the forum and wait for a deal of the day that screams "buy me!"

Khukuris choose their users as much as their users choose them, you should buy one that seems right when you look at it, and odds are better that it will be exactly what you want when it arrives
 
You can't go wrong with a WWII. It's basically a good beginner tool to go with...i regretted not getting it earlier as well.
Once you get the hang of using one, M-43 might be your next conquest...and then GRS...then CAK...then Chitlangi.....then...zzzzzz
 
JayGoliath said:
You can't go wrong with a WWII. It's basically a good beginner tool to go with...i regretted not getting it earlier as well.
Once you get the hang of using one, M-43 might be your next conquest...and then GRS...then CAK...then Chitlangi.....then...zzzzzz
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Sweet Khuky Dreams, Jay...... :thumbup: ;)
 
Sumoj,

I will take a different road than most. The kukri is a different animal from a traditional knife and there is a steep learning curve to it. During this learning curve there are several possible outcomes. One outcome is that you decide you don't like the feel and you end up selling it or it becomes a desk ornament. Another popular and unfortunate outcome is that the person doesn't read the safety thread and goes out with their new kukri swinging for the seats and injures themselves. This leads to the same outcome as the first example, they get rid of it or lives out its life on the desk.

A third possibility is that you like it but you did the "western thing" and had to get the BIGGEST kukri available and after your first trip to the field you realize that you will never carry this big heavy thing again. Lastly, if you get the right model and decide you like the kukri you come to the realization that the Nepalese sheath isn't going to cut it and you either find one, make one yourself or stop carrying it.

My recommendation is to go with a BAS for your first kukri. The fact is, for most people the comparatively small BAS is still a very very large knife. The BAS is by far the easiest kukri to carry regularly. Its shape makes it the easiest to make a sheath for. The most compelling reason to get this model is that it is the easiest and safest kukri to learn with. They are not overly expensive so you are less likely to fall into the trap of it being soooooooo nice that you can't bring yourself to actually use it (yes it happens a lot!). On its own merits, the BAS is small enough to carry, manageable enough to learn with and big enough to do just about any job.

The BAS is also a good gauge kukri. Once you get used to it you will know if you need a bigger more powerful model or if this is just right. An example of needing bigger is when someone really falls in love with the kukri (almost everyone here) and they do lots of back yard chopping and use their kukri in place of an ax. They don't need to carry it or hike with it so big and heavy are not a drawback. What they need is lots of chopping power. Another example of needing more is with the feel preference but unfortunately that is the quicksand trap. To learn the feel of different models you have to buy a few from the different categories. The Ang Khola's have their fan base, the heavy choppers; the thinner longer bladed sirupate, chitlangi, and gelbu types appeal to the martial arts types and those that use it more for machete type work; and then there are the "all-arounders" like the M43 and Bonecutter that are like shapeshifters. Big when you need big, small when you need small and feel both light and heavy in hand.

As you will hear from many on this forum after you get a few, one of the models will pick you. When you get the one made for you in your hand, you will know that you know that you know immediately. Then you will say things like, my 22 inch 3.5lb CAK carries like a dream and is as light as a feather!

Good luck on your search!
 
shortwinger, that is good enough for a magazine article, or at least for a sticky titled "Which khukuri to get?":thumbup:
 
Guys, I appreciate the info/opinions. I live in Oklahoma so the chopping is not lis like PNW, or NEW. I have spent the last couple days looking back and forth.....guess I need to make a name for each, drop in the hat, and draw one LOL. I do understand it working or not for me. I heard how great the Busse BM were, and they are---but not for me. I like tools that are handy in hand because much of the time when it is being used it is on light wood and vines/brush.
Thanks
 
I live in Oklahoma so a lot of the wood I would be chopping is knotty since scrub oak is our #1 tree along with ceders. Would horn or wood be the better material for the grip?
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I have absolutely no intention of denigrating HI or their products, but for that kind of wood, I believe you'd be best served by a medium-small axe or medium-large hatchet. Of course, you probably already have several of those, so you can probably ignore that advice!

With wood like that, probably the best role for a khukuri would be a middleweight multitool and backup, rather than a primary chopper. For cutting small stuff, that you don't feel like walking back to your house, shed, truck, etc., for the axe. For chopping any size tree, plant, animal, or person that absolutely must be chopped right now. For peeling fruit or vegetables (the curve is perfect for this, but you should obviously make sure non-food-safe oils never touch the blade, if it'll be used for food prep). For chopping food (the curve is again perfect, if you have a relatively high table or counter to work on; use only the part of the blade above the curve, and the rest of the blade will be "below" the counter while you're slicing down. It's very very easy on the wrist). Any wood or brush that's too soft or flexible or light for the axe. Khukuris are excellent all-arounders, but the specialized thing they do better than anything else out there, IMO, is wet wood, anything from slightly damp to very waterlogged. They're also jacks-of-all trades par excellance, though.

And for the kind of use I just said, you probably want... any of the ones you mentioned. All 3 are among the best all-arounders HI makes. My other advice may've been things you already know, too!

Last bit of advice, then, dig around in any large bowies, tomahawks, etc., you have lying around, and figure out what a comfortable weight and length is, with those, for the kind of tool you're looking for. Easily carried, usually light to medium duty, but has to stand up to emergency heavy duty, etc. Should be able to figure out an approximate length and weight (I'd say around 18" and 2 to 2.5 pounds, probably). Look at specs of the khukuris, see what one's closest to what you think you need.

Final step: pull up all the pictures of HI khukuris you can find, spend hours poring over them, and select the one that simply "calls" to you. You'll know it when you feel it! Throw away everything else you know, and get that one. :D I truly hope you find one that calls to you like that, at least. It's guaranteed to be perfect.
 
Thanks Steve.

After reading your last post (because much of the time when it is being used it is on light wood and vines/brush) and repeating Ryans intent not to steer anyone away from HI, this is the textbook definition of a kukri/machete. You might want something a bit heavier than a straight machete because of that tough Oklahoma brush but not want to go as heavy as a kukri, which begins to show its weakness when the material being cut moves when it is struck. I think his description also eliminates an ax or hatchet.

I don't have a Tamang or even a Farm Knife so I cannot say if these are a possibility, maybe someone that has them could chime in? Also, if anyone has an HI model in mind that would fit the kukri/machete role? I know we don't like to mention other companies on the HI forum but there are a few that make kukri/machetes that would work fine for you. You might even be lucky enough to find them on Blade Forums.
 
In thick brush, my Sirupati outperforms my machete when hard wood is invovled. if its soft green stuff the machete is like an electric clipper and has an advantage in weight and reach, but if the brush is dense wood, the sirupati cuts through it like it was butter where the machete bounces and tears at the wood. The flexibility of the material does not affect the Sirupati so much, I can cut grass with mine. My Sirupati is 17inches total and 19oz made by Bhakta Kami

The farm knife is a bit thin on the edge for use on knotty hard wood unless you were to reprofile it a bit IMO
 
sumoj275 said:
Guys, I appreciate the info/opinions. I live in Oklahoma so the chopping is not lis like PNW, or NEW. I have spent the last couple days looking back and forth.....guess I need to make a name for each, drop in the hat, and draw one LOL. I do understand it working or not for me. I heard how great the Busse BM were, and they are---but not for me. I like tools that are handy in hand because much of the time when it is being used it is on light wood and vines/brush.
Thanks
Click to expand...

It sounds like my environment is similar to yours, we have Cedars and Scrub Oak in the hills foot hills and part way out our mountains along with a lot of soft woods and brush and vines. My 18" WWII works fine on 4" thick Scrub Oak which is the thickest it's been tested on so far. Limbing a Cedar with a WWII is fine also. But I would want my 30" Bow saw or a chain saw if I needed to Section a Cedar into rounds. My 20" Sirupati does good on green soft woods (Quakes) up to about 10" thick, but the WWII is better.

This last spring I picked up a "Boys" axe that has 2 pound head on a 24" handle. It had a blunt thick edge that I thinned out a bit but mostly for splitting logs which it does good at. If I'm going to be backpacking in my area I normally carry my 20" Sirupati or one of my WWII's (ontop of the 18" I just got I've had a 16.5" since spring 2003). The WWII's will handle Thick green wood and the average Scrub Oak around here just fine just like a small axe will, but they will also handle the brush though not as well as my 20" Sirupati.

In you last post you mentioned that light wood, brush and vines are the main thing that you will be cutting. I personally think that an 18" WWII is the blade for you. I have the 18" that I got last month and a 16.5" that I've had since the spring of 2003. The 16.5" has a 7/16" thick spine, has a fuller then a flat grind before the convex edge. Bura made it light and fast at 21oz. In August I used it to chop down a ton of green dead (Fell during the last winter or spring) Blue spruce trees from 4" to 8" thick that were blocking a trail around a lake I frequent. The 16.5" WWII worked much better then the SOG Tigershark I started using, which worked okay on branches up to 4" but was to slow on anything bigger. Got my 18" WWII that weights 27.6 oz a month later or it would have been used. My Much heavier ASTK (18" and over 2 pounds) is better at hard dry wood, but it's heavier and doesn't do well on brush so it stays home 95% of the time.

The M43 is also a WWII design. I used to own the 6th one that H.I. made but never got to use it before having to sell to pay for schooling. So I can't comment on it's use, but from the review it's a dang good user too. From what I remember from fondling my old one, they are more forward heavy and the edge is lower then the WWII or any knife that you are probably used to, so it will probably have a bigger learning curve then a WWII. Thats a good reason right there to get the WWII first then get the M43.

If you were in Utah or were to visit, I'd take you up the canyon and let you test out my WWII's and other Khukris.
 
this is the textbook definition of a kukri/machete. You might want something a bit heavier than a straight machete because of that tough Oklahoma brush but not want to go as heavy as a kukri, which begins to show its weakness when the material being cut moves when it is struck. I think his description also eliminates an ax or hatchet.
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You know what, I think I misunderstood his description of the wood, so I should to change my "official" 1st recommendation to be closer to yours. Never been to Oklahoma! :p

At this point, I'm thinking 18" M43, 18" WWII, or 18" Chitlangi, if nothing else really calls to you. Probably the best jack-of-all-trades heavy, medium, and light (respectively) models.
 
Thanks again guys. The 18" WWII is the one that caught my attention first. Looks like I might have to order me a Christmas gift.

Now how do I go about doing that? Are they kept stock here in the States, exchange, or direct from Nepal?
 
the main stock ships out of nevada
custom orders i believe go from nepal
if ordering, wait at least a week. auntie is gon in nepal doing business talk
 
Everything ships to Auntie first and is sold from there.
Nothing is sold directly from the Aruns (shops) in Nepal.
 
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