Which tools first?

M

manny767

Joined
Aug 27, 2012
Messages
29
There has been a couple of setbacks with this hobby for me and what I have available. The first being the steel I get not being precisionground, I don't have a surface grinder. Should I be spending the extra dough for precision ground steel or is there something I can do to get it flat myself such as a sanding block? Two when profiling out a knife blank I have absolutely no way of getting curves nooks and crannies profiled out down to the line so I'm stuck making knives without curves. I dont have the capitol for a oscillating spindle sander right now if I move on to get a new grinder, what do you guys use to get those curves taken care of? Files? If files how do you get them edges filed/sanded flat?
I use a disc sander for getting my straight edges flat but curves I have no idea how to get profiled out.
I planned on getting a bader or a kmg before xmas as I think it will help a lot with grinding and even profiling but would a spindle sander be a better buy? Or would files be good. The only grinder I have now is a home built 2x42.
..I took a gander at jantz supply co. and they have tons of files there, if files is the answer can someone point me to a good file set, all those choices give this gent a headache!

The last thing here will any type of sanding block work for sanding knives after the grinding on the belt grinder is done? I was looking at one of those square sanding blocks from useenco dot com
Thank you's
 
Last edited:
keep it simple.
I use an angle grinder for rough profiling and then a 2x42. But before I had the machine I used files.
A dremel can help as well or a drill press.
Drill holes next to eachother and remove the steel between with a carbide cutter in a dremel.
Flatten your grinds by drawfiling and then hand sand. I use paint stirring sticks in different withs, with or without rounded edges.

Personaly I thing it is not about having the most tools or machines but making the best of what you have.
 
I think i may have worded this wrong. I can get the knife profiled fine for the most of it, i have a bandsaw and a 2 x 42. Its the little curves in the knife shape I cant get inside of and grind down since the grinder platen is flat and wont get inside curves. Im guessing files would be best for this but which ones, theres alot of shapes and sizes on jantz.
I was told to get a spindle sander but they are pretty pricey,even used.

In example if a knife design has a little guard hanging down how would you get the steel removed from that really small area? And if the handle of the knife has some curvature to it what would you use to grind that down since the grinder platen cant grind along curves?
 
For curves and small radius use files and drum sanders.Slow b ut it works.
Stan
 
I'm up latest so I get to say it first...

"Have you read the stickys at the top of shop talk" (where we're posting)

DO IT NOOWW! insert Arnold accent

Files are necessary... all of them...
and don't use a sanding block, use something hard, stiff, and flat like a bar of steel.
 
Files:
10-12" flat bastard
8-10" second cut
8-10" finishing cut
8" half round second cut
8" long 1/4" round file or rat tail

Sandpaper - Wet-or-Dry paper in the following grits, about five each to start;
120;220;400;800;1000;1500;2000;2500
2"X4"X1" Flat block of hardwood
1/4" flat steel 1.5"X6"
Round dowels to match inside curves


With these you can shape any knife you desire.
 
I use a Dremel with the small sanding barelll attachements and small files.. Granted the small files were cheap but I just use them with little pressure.. it's time consuming but I enjoy making knives so no rush and the slower I go the better it usually turns out!
 
You can use a high speed hand drill with a split dowel and sandpaper wrapped up around it too, learned that from Weldon Whitley's dvd. It's good for getting up into those tight radii.
 
I'll add two things: YES precision-ground or at least surface-ground stock is worth the extra money. I get most of my steel from Aldo, and at my request he surface grinds the scale off for a very reasonable fee. I come out ahead by saving time and belts. Call and talk to him about it.

And, a basic $100 drill press makes life much easier. For tight inside curves like a finger groove, you can drill one large hole and "swiss cheese" the rest of area to be removed with smaller bits, greatly reducing the amount of steel you need to file away or grind off.
 
If you make hidden tangs the steel doesn´t have to be the same thickness all over
You might want to go that way with the steel zou have
 
I find it's also very helpful to design the knife to the limitations of my equipment. I don't have too many curves on my knives anymore that are smaller than 2" because that's the smallest wheel on my grinder for now. I do use the dremel for really tight curves if I decide to put them in. Using stones on the dremel works better for me because they last so much longer than the tiny drum sandpaper type things. I use both though.
 
OzarkMatt said:
If you are going to buy a KMG etc. get a small wheel attachment for it. Bada Bing, instant belt spindle sander :D Rob makes them for the Bader BIII as well.

http://www.beaumontmetalworks.com/kmg-swa.html

Jose at Pheer Grinders makes these for his line as well if you go that route.
Click to expand...

Completely skimped over those on beaumonts web site. This grinder really does justify its cost. The only thing I see with that is how would you keep the work piece flat when grinding since there is no table to rest it against? It seems since you have to do it freehand without support that you wouldnt be able to keep the knife straight and when grinding along the wheels you may lean a bit and the knife edges would be uneven. I looked over it a few times and dont see how you could make a jig for it either.
I would say you could get it close and then finish it by hand sanding but the problem still lies with how would you get the edges flat? Even with a dowel or similar you cant keep it perfectly straight which would lead to the edges being uneven.
 
Well, I plan to setup the table my pheer will be on so that it can flip to horizontal then use the work rest with a spacer like this: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/965495-Pheer-grinder-video-review

I watched one of Mike Snody's videos (that I can't find right now) and he clamped a 123 block onto his work rest giving him what was effectively an upright work rest for sanding the spine, etc on his knives. Something like that would probably work here too.
 
OzarkMatt said:
Well, I plan to setup the table my pheer will be on so that it can flip to horizontal then use the work rest with a spacer like this: http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/965495-Pheer-grinder-video-review

I watched one of Mike Snody's videos (that I can't find right now) and he clamped a 123 block onto his work rest giving him what was effectively an upright work rest for sanding the spine, etc on his knives. Something like that would probably work here too.
Click to expand...

I just spent about 20 minutes looking for the video your talking about but couldnt find it either. I think I know what you mean but that setup with the 1 2 3 block wouldnt work with those small wheel attachments would it? I'm not seeing how a work table could be set up with the small wheel attachment on there so you just mean grinding flats like drop points and such on the flat platen with the table / 1 2 3 block combo? The curved parts would need to be done freehand?
 
manny767 said:
I just spent about 20 minutes looking for the video your talking about but couldnt find it either. I think I know what you mean but that setup with the 1 2 3 block wouldnt work with those small wheel attachments would it? I'm not seeing how a work table could be set up with the small wheel attachment on there so you just mean grinding flats like drop points and such on the flat platen with the table / 1 2 3 block combo? The curved parts would need to be done freehand?
Click to expand...

You may be right, I forgot that the work rest on a kmg would be level with the small wheel... Ok, here's an idea: Where the small wheel holder bolts to the tool arm, if you used longer bolts (like 5" or so) and a bunch of washers you could bring the small wheel to above the work rest. Then you could clamp your 123 block vertically to the work rest and move it really close to the wheel and there ya' go!
 
Like this:
OXxQY.png
 
OzarkMatt said:
Like this:
OXxQY.png
Click to expand...

Ok I got the idea now. If you ever come across that video of snody using that jig again send me out a visitor message with the link if you dont mind. Would like to see it in action. And out of curiosity how would you clamp that 1 2 3 block to the worktable without having a hole in the worktable? Never used those blocks before but they seem like they would be useful.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top