Which W&C leather?

[J. Hoffman]

I'm ordering my second hide from Wickett & Craig this week, and I'm not sure what to get. The first hide I got, I bought the cheapest grade of skirting. I believe I bought 8/9 oz. This leather has done a good job, but I find it very hard to cut compared to other leathers I have cut. It seems very dry. What would be a better grade for sheath making? I was looking at English Bridal but it only comes in 8/10 oz, or the tooling leather which I think they will split to 8/9 oz. I'm also wondering if a lighter leather would work better. Thanks for any help.
Jess

 

[Horsewright]

I've used a lot of the English Bridle leather and its a great leather but I don't use it for sheaths. If you wern't doing a lot of stamping or wet molding it would work well but because of how its tanned it takes a lot more water to get it to stamp well. Screws with your space time continuium. It does stamp well but its just not the same. Never tried to wet mold it. As you mentioned on the thick side for sheath work. Recently been buying 7/8 oz W and C tooling leather sides from Maverick leather. Cuts like a dream (I always have a side or two of the 8/10 oz russet saddle skirting on hand and it can sometimes be tough to cut) and tools very well of course. Very nice sides.

 

[J. Hoffman]

Thank you Dave! That was the info I was looking for

 

[Horsewright]

Ya bet!

 

[Cody Hofsommer]

Jess, I find i can punch my tread holes (with a diamond awl the way Al Stohlman says too) much easier if I oil my sheath first. Probably cut easier too. I have been cutting my sheaths out with a round knife and haven't been having much trouble. They take some getting use to, but works pretty good. I use to use a shingle blade in my utility knife. That works too.

 

[sheathmaker]

I have been buying Wicket&Craig skirting sides split to 7/8 Oz exclusively for about seven years now. Unfortunately, no matter who you buy from now there is a real chance you'll experience a bad or lesser quality side from time to time. One of the features of this less than desirable leather is that it is extremely difficult to cut (when compared to similar sides purchased at a different time).

This could be caused by several factors, incomplete rinse in the final stages of tanning, stale or weak tanning ingredients, lesser quality raw hair on hides coming to market, or a combination of these and other factors. I have checked with industry reps and this is happening rather uniformly from many of the top tanneries, meaning switching "brands" may not get the results you think. The "luck of the draw" seems to be at play here, and even if you hand pick your leather, you'd better test cut it also which you can't do without buying the side. Catch 22?...you bet!

This a lot more disappointing and a much bigger deal to a guy who only uses a side every 3 or 4 months. Not so much for those of us who cut through 3 or 4 sides a month or more. A less than desirable side doesn't stay around long enough to cause lasting consternation.

Paul

 

[J. Hoffman]

Thanks everyone. I'm using a Knipshield head knife, a Nd have cut other leather with it, but this hide is just horrible. I'm going to order a slightly lighter tooling hide and use this one for welts. This hide has lasted me two years. I don't make a ton of leather sheaths.

 

[Cody Hofsommer]

One breakthrough I had was using the proper cutting surface. I was using a poundo board, then switched to a Polly cutting board from Walmart. Made a big difference. I bet most of you already are using one, but it helped me.

 

[sheathmaker]

Thanks everyone. I'm using a Knipshield head knife, a Nd have cut other leather with it, but this hide is just horrible. I'm going to order a slightly lighter tooling hide and use this one for welts. This hide has lasted me two years. I don't make a ton of leather sheaths.

Terry's knife should cut anything you come up against (properly sharpened, of course). Cody mentioned your cutting surface. If you are cutting into anything rubber or rubberized, you can expect tremendous drag on the blade. The poly type surfaces are definitely the best.

Paul

 

[Horsewright]

I ended up using one of those Hydroma cutting boards that Tandy sells and available online other places as well. The poly boards didn't work too well for me as I would cut through the leather and get the knife stuck in the poly. With the Hydroma the blade cuts through the leather and doesn't get stuck. Kinda skates along. I know several saddle makers that cut on those roller mats that I have under the Hydroma in this pic. I can't even begin to do that I get stuck right now on one of those. I learned about those Hydroma boards here in Sheaths and Such so ya can teach an old dog new tricks.

The Poundo board under the cutting board help keeps it still and from moving around while cutting. Cutting out some Leatherman sheaths here.

Have to concur with Paul there is no perfect piece of leather regardless of the tannery. its just a dead cow after all.

 

[Diomedes Industries]

Because of Paul's suggestion years ago - I use 8 ounce Wicket and Craig sides. I get them 10 ounce and have them 'leveled' to 8 ounce. I get full sizes in Utility grade and have not had a problem for years.

Jason