white lightning or tuff glide?

S

shawn

Joined
Dec 5, 1999
Messages
215
i have white lightning at the moment and am very satisfied with it. i haven't tried the tuff glide but i know i like my tuff cloth! also, how often do you all lube your pivot areas on your folders? i blow my mini-reflex out and lightly lube it once a week as it sees alot of use.
 
i have both and prefer Tuf-Glide the most. Some of my knives gum up with White Lightening. I lube the pivots with the handy-dandy Tuf-Glide applicator. Incidentally, I never have had a speck of rust on any of my knives that have been Tuf-Clothed or had Tuf-Glide applied.

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~Greg Mete~
Kodiak Alaska



[This message has been edited by Kodiak PA (edited 02-26-2000).]
 
I would really reccomend the Tuff-Glide, I have some on the way, and definitely if you have Tuff-Cloth, then get it,
Because Sentry Solutions reccomends that you replenish your Tuff-Cloth with their Tuff-Glide solution, rather than reccomended mineral spirits......

HOPE THIS HELPS..........
 
I have never tried white lightning, but since the recent negative reports about it in lubing knives, I have no desire to.

Tuf-Glide, the active ingredient in Tuf-Cloth, is a thin film corrosion inhibitor. It has minimal lubrication abilities, inadequate for the high stress pivot pin area. There is a Sentry product which is good for this, Hi-Slip Grease. This works very well, but is MoS2 based, so is black and gets on everything.

I just used some Chris Reeve fluorinated (i.e. PTFE or Teflon containing) grease on a new, stiff Buck 110, and it slicked up the knife very well. It has the advantage of being white, so won't show on your hands or clothes. Shooter's Choice makes a good grease, which comes in a plastic syringe as does the Chris Reeve product, but it is red in color.

Another alternative is a PTFE containing oil, such as the one put out by Dillon. This has worked very well for me. Break-Free is another PTFE / oil combo, and some people have had good results with it. I suspect that it has been reformulated, as it was tested by Gun Tests about 6-8 years ago, and showed absolutely no decrease in the friction between two steel plates under load.

Bottom line: if staining is not a problem, go with the Hi Slip Grease; MoS2 plates the metal parts and cannot be beat (I use it on the slide rails of my 1911s ). If staining is a problem, go with Chris Reeve's PTFE/grease or a PTFE/oil combo. The former will probably give better lubrication under high stress.

Hope this helps, Walt
 
Walt,

Is the Hi-Slip Grease thin enough so that it can be applied to folders without having to disassemble them? In my experience, the Chris Reeve Grease requires you to disassemble your folders because it is too thick.

-Johnny
 
I've only gotten to try the White Lightening, a little bottle from the Blade Show. For me it worked very well, my knives really open up smoothly. What I found to be a problem was if you didn't wait for it to dry, and most folks don't have much patience! So when I applied it I waited till it dried and then it seem to work much better. But now I'm out of anything and need to get something pretty soon. But I thought I'd drop off my .02 cents worth in regards to the White Lightening aspect of the post.

G2

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"The Road to Hell is Paved with Good Intentions!"
Take the time to read your Bible Now, don't be left behind...


G2 LeatherWorks
 
JoHnYKwSt; I don't have any trouble applying grease to the pivot pins of knives without disassembling them. You just apply the stuff around the edges, and it will work itself in. The Buck 110 I used the CR lube on I did not disassemble. Of course, I have been lubing guns for about 40 years, so I guess I have picked up a few tricks about getting lube into tight places.

Walt
 
Does anyone have an opinion about Tri-Flo? I used it a lot when I raced R/C cars, and I've been using it in the pivot area of my folders. It seems to work pretty well, and it contains Teflon. I haven't tried anything else, so I can't make a comparison.

~Mitch
 
While WL can gum up the action, that is usually from overlubing. The applicator would be greatly enhanced by a precision dropper as on the Tuf-Glide mini-bottle. I have noticed a performance difference between the two in that WL can often smoothen a gritty action that Tuf-Glide can not. I have never had it go the other way.

-Cliff
 
Try Prolix (from ProChemCo)for a lubricant. The stuff is an excellent "dry lube". I have tried it on the shell plate of a progressive reloader as well as the my IPSC guns and it works much better than everything else I tried including tuff glide, white lighting, FP-10, and different moly greases. It doesn't build-up, it is clean to use and is very, very slippery.
 
For my use, White Lightning goes liberally on looser/larger pivots, and Tuf-Glide goes somewhat more sparingly on a smaller pivot.

I carry a BM 705 IWB, so I haven't looked at the products besides Tuf-Glide, since it works well enough and I don't have to worry about dirtying my shirts. I dislike WD40 and Tri-flow for an application like this because they tend to stay wet.

I have two Jaguar (real rip-offs, figure it out) balis, one that is lubed with teflon grease and the other with White Lightning. The WL took five to ten minutes to dry, and there's a white coating on the handles (I didn't bother to clean it), but it was more convenient than going in with a cotton swab. They feel very similar.
 
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