White Lightning or TuffGlide... Which is best?

Joined
May 22, 2000
Messages
185
I was just wondering which knife lube is best... White Lightning or Sentry TuffGlide?
Anyone out there tried them both?

What do you guys think?

Ben

 
Consider, also, Militec-1.

Take it from a balisong artist, this stuff is great. Keep in mind that in the course of five minutes, I can put more cycles on the joints of my knife then the average user will put on his in a year.

I've never tried TuffGlide, but I have used White Lightening. Militec-1 is twenty times better.



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Chuck
Balisongs -- because it don't mean a thing if it ain't got that swing!
http://www.balisongcollector.com
 
Used both and they're both good. But I did find that some knives "prefered" one but not the other. One thing you can do is use WL to clean a knife by lubing it and then running the knife under hot water. The wax melts and takes all the gunk with it. Hope this helps.

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"Better to reign in Hell, than serve in Heav'n"
John Milton
There are only two types of people; those who understand this, and those who think they do.
 
I've used Tuff Glide on Spydies, Benchmades, Microtechs, Emersons, etc. No problems, no complaints.

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"I'm out there Jerry, and I'm lovin' every minute of it!"--Kramer
 
I use Tuf-Glide on a Benchmade 720, and I don't like it. Seems like the knife is more smooth dirty. I've only used White Lightning on mountain bike chains, where it works very very well to shed dirt and mud. I will try it out when I run out of the worthless Tuf-Glide.
 
I tend to think of Tuf-Glide as a rust inhibitor more than a lubricant. It seems to leave a slightly sticky film.

David Rock

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AKTI Member # A000846
Stop when you get to bone.
 
Try tri-flow, it's a teflon based lubricant which I used servicing bank currency counting machines. It's the only lubricant our factory allowed for use on expensive close tolerance electronic machinery. Also it's not expensive and can be bought at the local hardware store. Benchmade recommends it on their knives.
 
I have both. The White Lightening does an excellent job in any Pivot or interior areas of a knife. It leaves a Film Coating (due to a Wax content) that prevents dirt from reentering the area that you just cleaned but it also lubricates those same areas. Good Stuff. W.L. also has a cleaner that comes in an aerosol can, very potent stuff but not too cheap.

If you are going to display any of your knives(esp any with a Mirror Polished blade) then I would recemmend using the Tuff-Glide. It won't leave a film that would detract from the beauty of the knife. However, you will have to wipe down the knife more often as dust will accumulate quickly on the oily surfaces.

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Marine Sniper Motto:
There's no use Running, you'll only Die Tired!
 
I guess I'd vote for Tuf Glide. Not that White Lightning isn't good, but it has a relatively short shelf life and that shelf life (less than a year) is shorter than I need to use up a bottle. Tuf Glide, of course, is more expensive. Take care.

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Fred
Knife Outlet
http://www.knifeoutlet.com
 
White Lightning #ROCKS!!#
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Sam

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have spydies
will travel...
 
Unfortunately, White Lightning also COLLECTS rocks, so to speak.

I had some for my bike chain, works pretty well there. Makes a sort of oily mud over time, not sure if it will increase chain wear from abrasives, or whether it is helping. Takes a while to wear out a bike chain. Unconvinced it's any better than TriFlow or Break Free here.

In my Axis lock, the paraffin (wax) content seemed to pick up pocket debris and gradually turn into a mildly gritty knife mud that caused the Axis to feel gritty... like tiny grains of sand. I really hate that. It's like getting sand in your shoes... doesn't stop you from walking, but it is annoying over time. I didn't try hot water (a good idea) to melt the wax and take debris with it, but I did have to repeatedly blast my Axis with solvents (brake cleaner) to get the gunk out and start anew. Your results may vary.

I have been wondering exactly what the development premises behind TufGlide were. It's very thin. I guess it might lube things somewhat "ok", but must be designed to have a low surface tension so it'll penetrate and then protect against corrosion. It seems unremarkable as a lubricant... I hardly noticed a change in the way my folders worked afterwards. I dunno. Maybe I'm missing something.

Break Free (despite the smell) and TriFlow remain my favorites for things that need to work and move.

WD-40 is for cheap $#!+ or for things that don't have moving parts (machete, hatchet).
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rdangerer@home.com


[This message has been edited by rdangerer (edited 08-18-2000).]
 
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