Who can reliably put a convex bevel on a Kershaw Outcast?

D

Doggonit

Joined
Jun 20, 2006
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I don't have any big choppers, and don't especially want to spend much money on one (yet?) but I read good things about the Kershaw Outcast, and as it can be had for $60, which isn't too dear, I'll get one.

Now, the only question, where can I send it off to to have a convex bevel put on it? Is there somebody out there doing this sort of work consistently and in a timely fashion? I don't mind paying a few extra bucks for a good job as I don't want to (a) send the knife off and have it returned with half the blade gone or (b) get it back three months later.
 
hmm, well you could have it fully convexed by BRKT. and you can convex the edge if you want.
 
I'd really rather not take on that big a job myself. I'd end up doing a mediocre job at the expense of losing a lot of material and probably scratching the heck out of the finish before even using it!

As for this BRKT, what/who is it and how can they be contacted?
 
Doggonit said:
I'd really rather not take on that big a job myself. I'd end up doing a mediocre job at the expense of losing a lot of material and probably scratching the heck out of the finish before even using it!

As for this BRKT, what/who is it and how can they be contacted?
Click to expand...

Bark River Knife & Tool

They are one of many fixed blade makers who use convex edges. I know blackjack does as well.
 
Doggonit said:
As for this BRKT, what/who is it and how can they be contacted?
Click to expand...

http://www.barkriverknifetool.com/aboutus.asp


The Outcast is a knife manufactured in mainland China of D2 steel.

Two other options I would consider: the Ka-Bar Becker BK9 and the Ontario Ranger RD9.
Both are reasonably priced large knives which represent great value.

The Becker and Ranger knives are made in the USA, with the Becker using 1095 Cro-Van steel and the Ranger using 5160 steel.

5160 especially is noted for its toughness and resilience, characteristics which are very desirable in a big chopper.
 
Just wanted to let you know that Smokey Mountain Knife Works is currently offering the RTAK-II for $59.99. That gives you another big chopper option in your price range.
 
You MUST post pics of the result. Sorry, it's mandatory.:D

I'm looking forward to seeing the results.
 
I can do it but as a outcast owner their are a few things I would suggest, STRIP THE COATING! the coating makes it stick in the wood while chopping and really decreases its effectivness. Full convex grinds will NOT work with this blade their is not enough thickness to the blade. If you are sharpening challenged you might want a different blade steel, the outcast is my go to blade for chopping but it did take more than 20 hours of work even with the help of a beltsander to get the edge.

Pm or email for further questions, thanks and good luck.
 
I have my Outcast on the way, planning to put a convex edge on with my belt sander (can't do full convex as mentioned)


knifenut, how did you strip the coasting?
what takes 20 hrs to convex a blade? My RC4 took me a couple hours at most. Did you use 40/80 micron belt?
 
LowTEC said:
I have my Outcast on the way, planning to put a convex edge on with my belt sander (can't do full convex as mentioned)


knifenut, how did you strip the coasting?
what takes 20 hrs to convex a blade? My RC4 took me a couple hours at most. Did you use 40/80 micron belt?
Click to expand...


D2 steel is no easy task to sharpen, sharpening 1095 is like sharpening warm butter compared to D2. I used paint stripper to remove the coating but I think the new ones have DLC coating and that will be a little harder to strip.

Stripper didn't seem to remove everything but I like how it turned out, kinda rustic looking.

Picture379.jpg
 
have a good look at the handle on the outcast. I hate mine, very poor ergonomics on the handle, great blade though but too uncomfortable to use in any extended time.
 
If your not set on the outcast try the Ontario RTAKII from SWKW, it's right at the same price and I believe it to be a higher quality knife.
 
Brad "the butcher";7952552 said:
have a good look at the handle on the outcast. I hate mine, very poor ergonomics on the handle, great blade though but too uncomfortable to use in any extended time.
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Brad, can you say a little more about why the Outcast handle is uncomfortable for you? Is it the size, the shape, the material, some combination of these factors? The angle of the handle to the blade?

Thanks,
Bill
 
ac1d0v3r1d3 said:
If your not set on the outcast try the Ontario RTAKII from SWKW, it's right at the same price and I believe it to be a higher quality knife.
Click to expand...


Though I have nothing against ontario, Kershaw quality is without question much higher.


As for the handle, to each their own cup of tea. I find the handle to be very user friendly and not cause any hot spots, could the handle be better? yes but its good enough IMO and has been the least of my worries in its past few years of heavy chopping. If you have keyboard hands then the handle of the outcast might be a issue.
 
Your thread title seamed like a Philosophical question to me.

I can't let this thread go by without post a pic of my Outcast. Several, I'm sure have seen the pics already, but they just have to suffer.....

4293640567_9aa50c875c_o.jpg


4314702069_c1819ba4de.jpg


Knifenut was right about stripping the coating, it does seemed to make the knife stick, and with the minimalist of care rust can be avoided.

I achieved my results with a combination of belt sander, Dremel sander, wire brush wheel, buffing wheel with polish compounds, and a set of paper wheels. The end result is a large, razor sharp, wicked chopper. The orange pic I took one day after being board from being snowed in. I wanted to see how my new edge would do slicing an orange in mind air. I thought I missed the orange until I saw to halves hit the floor.

Has far as the grip goes, I like it myself, I only wrapped it to absorb some vibrations, add a little girth, and to have a little para-cord in case of emergency, but really, it would have been fine without it.

There have been some other good options suggested, but none of them will hold there edge like the Outcast's D2.
 
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Flashpoint,

Thanks for the pictures. I like your paracord wrap. If I get an Outcast, I may do the same. I definitely plan to strip and polish the blade. I wonder if chemical stripper would take it off without causing so many scratches to polish out with finer grits? Obviously, one has to be careful not to digest the rubber handle with stripper.

Bill
 
I would think it would take a pretty potent stripper to dissolve the DLC coating. That stuff is pretty tough. I think I would wrap the handle with aluminum foil, and then a layer of duct tape before I doused it with a stripper just to safe.
 
Flashpoint said:
I would think it would take a pretty potent stripper to dissolve the DLC coating. That stuff is pretty tough. I think I would wrap the handle with aluminum foil, and then a layer of duct tape before I doused it with a stripper just to safe.
Click to expand...

The Outcast has a DLC coating?:eek:

I thought it was a Teflon type of coating.:confused:
 
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