Who can reprofile my Emerson? Need advice.

H

Humint

Joined
Apr 1, 2011
Messages
961
Hello fellow Emerson enthusiasts,

I just received my brand new 2013 (with standoffs) Emerson Horseman. I love the design of this knife. In fact I love many of the designs of Emerson knives. The only thing that has always stopped me from dropping my hard-earned money on them is the chisel grind. I tried a Mini A100 long ago and got rid of it within a month because for my purposes the chisel grind is just not working for me (I frequently have to change the angle of my cutting or the blade will skip off of the object that I inted to cut). I am not saying the chisel grind is bad however for my use it is not practical for me. Not trying to start a debate here.

With that said, is there anyone here that I should be looking to contact in order to have my Horseman reprofiled to the standard conventional - sharpened on both sides - grind (dual grind I gues you can say). I have never sent a knife away to be worked on and I don't mind paying more for a trustworthy source.

Thanks for your help!

P.S. Moderators if this needs to be posted in another area please move or let me know and I can close it and move it to the appropriate subforum.
 
That is the name I keep hearing! Attempting to contact him now! Thank you for your help.
 
The A100 and CQC8 have conventional V grinds. The bevel/edge is only sharpened on one side. I own about a dozen Emerson knives, and they are about the sharpest knives I've handled.
 
RevDevil said:
The A100 and CQC8 have conventional V grinds. The bevel/edge is only sharpened on one side. I own about a dozen Emerson knives, and they are about the sharpest knives I've handled.
Click to expand...

This is what I have found to be the case with mine.
That, plus the fact that they are a pleasure to sharpen. Sorry about the bad phone pic. But this 8 is crazy sharp after some time on the Edge Pro.
UzNEgEcl.jpg

Cheers
 
Nice edge indeed. I'm debating whether or not to put an edge like that on my 15.
 
Humint said:
That is the name I keep hearing! Attempting to contact him now! Thank you for your help.
Click to expand...

I've been talking to Richard lately, and I can tell you he's going through some health issues, so be patient. He is absolutely the Wizard of Edge (feel free to use that RJ ;) ).
 
Rev - what edge angle are you using for your blades? I'm assuming that you work on the one sharpened edge till it's where you want it, then are you just more or less knocking the burr off the back side? This is what's giving you that edge?

About half my Emersons have had the edge worked on to a standard V grind, but I still have some with the chisel. I'm bound and determined to figure them out. :)

I cannot afford a wicked edge or one if those nice type of systems. I work with a sharpmaker and lansky. Also have a couple of the DMT type "stones". I've given thought to clamping the knife in the Lansky clamp, then ever do slowly, working on the edge with a DMT stone freehand.

Thoughts?

Thank you sir - I really appreciate you helping the sharpening impaired.

Joe

macknife12 said:
This is what I have found to be the case with mine.
That, plus the fact that they are a pleasure to sharpen. Sorry about the bad phone pic. But this 8 is crazy sharp after some time on the Edge Pro.
UzNEgEcl.jpg

Cheers
Click to expand...
 
Joe58 said:
Rev - what edge angle are you using for your blades? I'm assuming that you work on the one sharpened edge till it's where you want it, then are you just more or less knocking the burr off the back side? This is what's giving you that edge?

About half my Emersons have had the edge worked on to a standard V grind, but I still have some with the chisel. I'm bound and determined to figure them out. :)

I cannot afford a wicked edge or one if those nice type of systems. I work with a sharpmaker and lansky. Also have a couple of the DMT type "stones". I've given thought to clamping the knife in the Lansky clamp, then ever do slowly, working on the edge with a DMT stone freehand.

Thoughts?

Thank you sir - I really appreciate you helping the sharpening impaired.

Joe
Click to expand...

Still keeping mine with the chisel.
I do the edge as I would a normal edge, but as you say, just knock off the burr in the straight side.
So I would start with around 20 or so strokes on the edge, then one stroke on the ceramic rod for the straight. Working my strokes down from 20 then 15 then 10 then 5 light. Again, after these only one on the back with the rod.
I sometimes use my Sharpmaker, fine stone on the 30deg. for the burr stroke.
This one I finished with the 1000 grit stone, and then the 2000 tape on the edge pro.
Cheers
 
Joe58 said:
Rev - what edge angle are you using for your blades? I'm assuming that you work on the one sharpened edge till it's where you want it, then are you just more or less knocking the burr off the back side? This is what's giving you that edge?

About half my Emersons have had the edge worked on to a standard V grind, but I still have some with the chisel. I'm bound and determined to figure them out. :)

I cannot afford a wicked edge or one if those nice type of systems. I work with a sharpmaker and lansky. Also have a couple of the DMT type "stones". I've given thought to clamping the knife in the Lansky clamp, then ever do slowly, working on the edge with a DMT stone freehand.

Thoughts?

Thank you sir - I really appreciate you helping the sharpening impaired.

Joe
Click to expand...

Joe,
I've used the Edge Pro to match angles on a CQC7 from 2004 (my first Emerson knife). It worked really well. Before I got the EP, I used the Sharpmaker or freehanded on stones and automotive sandpaper on a piece of glass. Lots of ways to get a killer edge on any knife. The best advice I have is, do not overthink it. There is 1 bevel, 1 angle.

You can truly get away with freehanding on some inexpensive sandpaper and glass, and you will be very happy with the edge. Put some Sharpie on the cutting edge, before sharpening. When you take the entire marker line off the bevel, you are hitting the angle just right.

Knocking the burr off is tricky for some. What I do is cut into a piece or 2x4 as hard and I can (slicing motions) several times. That has taken the burr off immediately. Or you can use a ceramic rod/bottom of a coffee mug, or a strop.
 
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