Who has 3v for sell

Edward
Do you have 1" round stock for sale and at
what price?
goshawk

------------------
http://www.imt.net/~goshawk The race is not always to the swift, but he who hangs loose.
Don't walk in tradition just because it feels good!!!!!

 
imho, I believe 1/4 inch stock of CPM 3V is the definitive size, particularly since 3V seems ideally suited to large camp,bowie,kukri,sword type blades because of its reportedly superb impact resistance combined with fine wear resistance. Got any plans for ordering a run of that size, Ed? I guess your Lord Wharncliffe's Mistress is crafted out of .175 stock. Let' see if I can remember how to convert decimals to fractions.

Stay safe and all the best, Phil <----<
 
At this point IM not planing to do any more orders, maybe next year.
The L,W,M is made of 1/4" 0-1 as when I made it the 3v had not come in.
I have bin running tests with the 3v and it is outstanding in every respect, except corrosion resistance.
The big knives and choppers that have bin made of 3v by me and others are holding up very well to heavy use with no problems.



------------------
Edward Randall Schott
Knifemaker
www.angelfire.com/ct/schottknives/index.html
edschott@javanet.com

 
Thanks for the info Mr. Schott. i wouldn't mind a smaller blade out of the less than 1/4 inch stock--in fact I would prefer it but any big choppers I would want out of at least 1/4 inch stock.--unfortuanately 4800 dollars is out of my range and then I would have to pay someone to work it all into blades for me too
smile.gif
.

thanks and take care
collin
 
Collin and Phil, I pretty much though the same as you in regards to Ed's 3V being too thin for a decent sized knife. However I have been using one of his knives in that stock :

campwithhandle.JPG


It is 31 cm long and has held up well. The edge bevel as you can see from the picture is nonexistant so it should be very fragile but it is not.

I brought it into work awhile ago and it was laying on a desk when a friend picked it up and accidently dropped it so it hit the concrete floor edge first from about a height of 5 feet. It is fairly heavy (412 g) and fairly hard (60 RC) but yet the edge did not indent nor chip out. It cut nicely into the concrete floor and the net effect on the blade was that it just blunted. The tip impacted just enough to be visible.

I have used it since then and have steeled and sharpened it with only a ceramic rod. Very minor work and the area that impacted off of the floor is now sharp again (I didn't actually work on it in particular it just came back to speed on it own).

I was actually interested in this blade mainly to see how 3V performed but testing against others knives is a bit of a problem as the grind Ed has used significantly biases the steel comparasion. For example when I compare the above to a CS Recon Scount the CS blade fares rather badly as the extremely thin edge on the custom gives it a huge advantage.

I am concerned about the durability of the edge but it has held up on on soft woods and such. It will be interesting to see how it handles harder material and direct lateral strain.

-Cliff
 
I must say that truly is a beauty of a blade. Has a very nice flow to it. I was wondering if you could post the measurements is the awful English system though as I can't find my ruler and can't convert weights without getting my chemistry book out from last year.

The edge toughness really suprised me since it has no secondary bevel and is such a high rockwell. I would like to see a secondary bevel on it though first of all because I have problems sharpening blades such as that one (bascially I can't), it would increase edge toughness, and it would allow for beter comparison. The edge's thinness just gives it so much better penetration than a conventionally sharpened edge.

I can't wait to hear the results of it on harder materials though. I expect it to good. Lateral strength out to be good as well but not quite strong enough for my tastes.

That it takes to steeling is very important to me as I can't use stones without grinding a lot of metal away it seems.
Still I figure for a larger blade a 1/4 inch thickness could only help it be a better chopper.

I really want to see this steel compared to INFI as well. They sound so similar in there properties--I mean both even perform well at high rockwells.

By the way,thanks for the info Mr. Stamp. I have been looking forward to it.

thanks and take care
collin

[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 22 July 1999).]

[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 22 July 1999).]
 
Cliff,

Your usual fine, first hand reporting,and empirical test results have added immeasurably to both forums,and they are always appreciated. Nice looking blade and congrats to Ed Schott. Ed, what kind of heat treat is on the LWM? Cliff, Let us know how that edge geometry holds up to your "Stamp Of Approval" testing procedures. The superlative specs of cpm 3v intuitively make me feel that even with that relatively fine edge,it will hold up suprisingly well on the tough Canadian trees and assorted hapless wood scraps Cliff routinely turns into sawdust, We'll see. If it proves as bulletproof as its specs portend on paper, even a lighter weight 3/16 stock Bowie,Machete,Kukri style blade would be an awesome,relatively weight efficient survival blade for the work it could perform. Keep us posted.

Rudy, I had to use one of my favorite free programs for Windows 95 to calculate Cliff's blade at 14.53287 ounces and 12.20472 inches long. Go to ZD nets download site www.hotfiles.com and enter Madison Convert in the search field. Download, Install, and enjoy.

Stay safe and all the best, Phil <------<


[This message has been edited by Phil Squire (edited 22 July 1999).]
 
Phil
the LWM has a differential heat treat, after my standard treat for 0-1 it was clamped between alum plates and suspended in water.
I then heated the spine with a torch to soften it.
but since the 3v came in I don't have to do all that just harden and go and the 3V blades beat the dif treated 0-1 blades hands down.


------------------
Edward Randall Schott
Knifemaker
www.angelfire.com/ct/schottknives/index.html
edschott@javanet.com

 
Mr. Squire,
The way 3V has performed so well already I would expect it to perform fine in 3/16 inch stock for most purposes. However, I knid of like to overbuild things so I would still prefer 1/4 inch stock. To me stronger is better.
Also thanks for the tip on Madison Converts. I am downloading as we speak.

thanks and take care
collin
 
Collin :

The edge toughness really suprised me since it has no secondary bevel and is such a high rockwell.
Click to expand...

Me as well. I have used similar ground knives before in plain high-carbon and stainless and while they slice really well, even hard plastics can deform them. The 3V blade is much tougher than that. I should be able to see how it handles hard woods and soft metals this weekend.

The edge's thinness just gives it so much better penetration than a conventionally sharpened edge.
Click to expand...

This really has to be handled to be believed. I was walking around in the yard yesterday and lightly lopping of the tops of Alder bushes with a very light motion. The recurve and the ultra thin edge is very powerful. I do a lot of close two handed work with blades and this one produces a powerful feeling. I don't even want to think what could happen if I slipped and that blade raked across my hand. I was using it rather carefully for awhile.

Lateral strength out to be good as well but not quite strong enough for my tastes.
Click to expand...

I am curious about this as well. I will not be looking at this for awhile though as this blade will be reviewed by 4 bladeforums members and the limit stress testing will only be done last for obvious reasons.

I would like to see a secondary bevel on it though first of all because I have problems sharpening blades such as that one
Click to expand...

Blades like this are actually probably the easiest to sharpen as you don't need to remove much metal at all. With regular steeling and the occasional stropping and maybe a little rod work, you will not have to grind along the bevel for a long time unless you dent up the edge. And of course if the edge gets dented up then you need a thicker one for your work so you just grind a bevel on it. Its always easier to make a bevel thicker than trying to go the other way.

Still I figure for a larger blade a 1/4 inch thickness could only help it be a better chopper.
Click to expand...

For some woods I would be concerned about sticking and want the extra width. However with this stock there are some possibilities. Mel Sorg for example does full convex grinds which leave a lot of splitting width even with this thin stock.

I really want to see this steel compared to INFI as well. They sound so similar in there properties--I mean both even perform well at high rockwells.
Click to expand...

That is easily done. I should have my BM in a couple of weeks.

Phil :

even a lighter weight 3/16 stock Bowie,Machete,Kukri style blade would be an awesome
Click to expand...

A machete would be ideal as would say a light fighting bowie. Mel Sorg has turned out some nice blades out of this for Marvin Edgeworth who has described strong performance.

The superlative specs of cpm 3v intuitively make me feel that even with that relatively fine edge,it will hold up suprisingly well
Click to expand...

That is my feeling as well. It would certainly be strong enough for light utility work and does make the grinds on many folders look thick and clumsy.

-Cliff


 
Cliff
The edge on that blade is a bit thin for metal cutting.
If I remember correctly it's around 12deg and wont have the mass to stand up to metal.
When I did my metal whack testing it was with a much steeper grind with a heavy secondary edge at 25-30deg.
You may want to wait on the metal till the end.
Also when you do your lateral edge testing you my want to use a vice, wood wont do it.


------------------
Edward Randall Schott
Knifemaker
www.angelfire.com/ct/schottknives/index.html
edschott@javanet.com

 
Mr. Stamp
Well, I will eagerly be awaiting the results of the 3V on hardwoods. I expect this steel to perform well. It just sounds great.

I have somewhat of an idea how such a grind works. My AK was better at machete work before I put a secondary bevel on it. However, I know that can't compare with the 3V blade.
Please be careful working with it too. It would be hard for you to get us those reviews typing with one hand
smile.gif
. Seriously though be careful.

The lateral strength tests are one of the areas I am most curious about. Already I have a good idea of its edge retention but the lateral strength is something unknown to me.
Who are the other members if I may ask to get the blade?

What you stated about the full flat grind makes since but the last time I tried to create a secondary bevel it scratched up the blade pretty bad as you know. Still I would be willing to give it a try.
The convex grind would make it suited for splitting better but I don't know how to sharpen one of those. I will have to read the FAQ. However, there is something about a 1/4 inch blade that I like.

I can't wait til you get your BM. I think you are going to like it but the khukuris may have spoiled you as far chopping ability goes.

thanks and take care
collin

[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 23 July 1999).]

[This message has been edited by RUDY (edited 23 July 1999).]
 
Ed :

Also when you do your lateral edge testing you my want to use a vice, wood wont do it.
Click to expand...

It is fairly stiff.

Collin:

Well, I will eagerly be awaiting the results of the 3V on hardwoods.
Click to expand...

I have only used it for about 30 minutes so far on harder woods but it has not suffered any chipping or indenting which is surprising. The damage, when it happens, is random in nature though and needs a strong lateral force. Usually this is when the blade twists after hitting at a bad angle or glancing off of a knot or something. So anyway I'll work at it a bit more than this, probably at least 2 hours or so.

The lateral strength tests are one of the areas I am most curious about.
Click to expand...

The blade is very stiff. Ed mentioned that it can flex about 30 degrees before it will take a set. I have done some light-medium prying with just the grind being in the wood and I can only induce a flex of about 10 degrees. I think that it can take the heaviest prying I would want, I'll wait until later to do this though.

Who are the other members if I may ask to get the blade?
Click to expand...

Will Kwan, Joe Talmadge, Martin Edgeworth.


-Cliff
 
Well, Mr. Stamp I can't wait for further testing to find out more and with you four testing it we ought to find out quite a bit. In fact it all ought to be good as well. I mean everything I keep hearing about 3V makes it sound better and better each time.
It makes be one a large machete made out of the stuff but unfortuanately I don't have the money right now. If I had a convex grind put on it ought to be able to chop darn well too. Oh well, one day.

thanks and take care
collin
 
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