Who likes Sharpening?

What do you prefer?

  • Stone

    Votes: 4 22.2%

  • Ceramic

    Votes: 4 22.2%

  • Belts

    Votes: 4 22.2%

  • Leather

    Votes: 0 0.0%

  • Diamond

    Votes: 6 33.3%
  • Total voters
    18
  • Poll closed .
I’d like try a tormek, but my Ken Onion Worksharps are my go to. EXCEPT thick blades worksharp is shite for fatties.

Also on folders and 5” under fixed. Work Sharp Professional Precision Adjust.

So it depends on the knife…..

And most importantly….a good strop!
 
I think I have almost every option available but so far... I like to use my Ken Onion Worksharp with blade grinder on large knives. I normally finish/resharpen everything with wet sandpaper and windex on a block of really dense closed cell foam pad (it's about the same size as a good bench Stones. I have neat, cheap guided system on the way. I'll let you know my thoughts when I get it.
 
Diamond plates and Spyderco benchstones dampened with Simple Green cleaner.

I used a set of DMT's for years, but I've gotten better results with the Amazon type diamond hones lately.

I maintain apex with Spyderco Sharpmaker.

On large Busse/Kin <R9 up to 1311> I've had better results clamping the blade and using the hones like a file-- with a very light touch.

I've used a cheap HF 1x30 but I given up on it because it's very noisy, dusty, and jittery.

So, I'm a diamond + ceramic guy, equally. I voted "ceramic" because I couldn't choose both.

Only drawback, I'm not a fan of that diamond dust & swarf-- nasty stuff-- be careful.
 
1 inch belt sander to set the profile of the blade if needed. I have had knives(non busse) that were to thick to make really sharp. I had to hog off a boatload of steel off the primary grind. After that, it's either ceramic/stone or leather/mouse pads depending on whether I do a V or a convex.
The knife above was the Gil Hibben Rambo IV blade. It was as blunt as a spoon. And almost impossible to get a good edge on it. So after hours of grinding off material to lean out the edge, I was able to put a wicked edge on it.
 
I’ve got a full set of large DMTs that I like, followed by a ceramic rod, followed by a Knives Plus strop block. Butter knife dull to whittling hair in under 30 minutes.

I use my Sharpmaker sometimes for quick touchups, and I have a knockoff Edge Pro with diamond stones for complete reprofiles.
 
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Diamonds are more than a girl's best friend. 😉

My usual cadre of sharpening equipment is diamond and ceramic plates and rods. Plus a 1x42 electric belt sander with a 60 grit abrasive belt on it for reprofiling & quick burr creation and a Rikon 1x30 belt sander with a leather stropping belt on it loaded with one (or is it six?) micron diamond paste to remove the burr. Occasional edge touch-ups will sometimes be accomplished on the Spyderco Sharpmaker, though usually freehanded with diamond & ceramic rods.

I've lately had good luck with the Sharpal 162N model 8"x3" size 325/1200 grit diamond plate ($70) and their 110R model 12" long 1200 grit diamond rod ($26) off of the big river site. Prior to that plate I'd used the S-SATC 8"x3" 400/1000 diamond plate ($22) with what seemed to be equally respectable results.

When I want polished edges, I'll load the green alox loaded 4" buffing wheel (upper right in pic) into a drill and take it for a spin.

Huge shout-out to Outdoors55 on YouTube for his tutorials & microscopy close-up shots of edges before/during/after sharpening. His obsession with burrs & their removal moved my thoughts & practices on sharpening several magnitudes up the scale. Still plenty of room for chasing perfection though. 😉

Stay sharp!!
 
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