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Who makes a full convex grind blade?
- Thread starter turkeyman
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- Nov 16, 2002
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I think most of the custom makers will do so for you.
For production knives, there's Swamp Rat Knives, Bark River Knife & Tool, Marble's Sports, Fallkniven, and Big Country Knives. Cold Steel's San Mai Trailmaster is their convex offering.
Hopefully, I've missed a multitude of production makers who do so.
For production knives, there's Swamp Rat Knives, Bark River Knife & Tool, Marble's Sports, Fallkniven, and Big Country Knives. Cold Steel's San Mai Trailmaster is their convex offering.
Hopefully, I've missed a multitude of production makers who do so.
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- Aug 12, 2002
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I agree that most makers will if asked.
I have one off getting a sheath made now that was a convex grind, but I'll change that when I get it back, for the simple reason that I did a hand rub up to 2000 grit, and I'm not trying to keep an edge sharp with 2000 grit sandpaper on a camp knie that I expect to beat around.
I have one off getting a sheath made now that was a convex grind, but I'll change that when I get it back, for the simple reason that I did a hand rub up to 2000 grit, and I'm not trying to keep an edge sharp with 2000 grit sandpaper on a camp knie that I expect to beat around.
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- Nov 16, 2002
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I'm sure about Bark River Knife & Tool, Marble's Sports, Big Country Knives, and several custom makers who do. I'm not 100% sure about Swamp Rat knives and the rest of the custom makers who don't.
Thanks Grapevine.....how do you sharpen them? Have you ever found any knives that are easier to sharpen or that hold their edges longer. Didn't Marbles change their steel from 52100? If so, how do you rate the new steel, if you have one of their newer knives? Thanks!
I haven't had to sharpen the Marbles yet. I do have a crappy flat ground knife that I turned into a convex in order to practice sharpening for when I need to do it to the Marbles. I followed what the forum said about using sand paper and a mouse pad, though I used a folded blanket instead of a mousepad. I found it very easy to sharpen the convex.
I have both a 52100 steel Marbles and one of the newer ones in their Alchemite steel. The older Marbles I'm keeping as a collectible so it didn't see much use other than some paper cutting tests to guage sharpness. The Alchemite steel one's seen some use, but hasn't gone through what you might consider full tests. It's been fine in my limited use. Forum member Buzzbait's done more comprehensive tests with the alchemite Marbles and he thinks they perform well.
The one thing that I think is more important than their change of steel is the fact that they're still able to make these knives wicked sharp out of the box. The new models use thinner stock than the 52100 models, so in some cases may cut even better. My new and old were just as sharp as each other.
I have both a 52100 steel Marbles and one of the newer ones in their Alchemite steel. The older Marbles I'm keeping as a collectible so it didn't see much use other than some paper cutting tests to guage sharpness. The Alchemite steel one's seen some use, but hasn't gone through what you might consider full tests. It's been fine in my limited use. Forum member Buzzbait's done more comprehensive tests with the alchemite Marbles and he thinks they perform well.
The one thing that I think is more important than their change of steel is the fact that they're still able to make these knives wicked sharp out of the box. The new models use thinner stock than the 52100 models, so in some cases may cut even better. My new and old were just as sharp as each other.
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Ken has not been the Editor of the Knives annuals since the 2000 edition.
Bill Moran no longer takes orders. I know, because I tried.
Ed Fowlers knives are convex grinds. He actually calls his grind a modified Price grind, but this is a form of convex grind.
I'd assumed Fallkniven were full convex also, but interestingly enough they are actually 25-33% convex, as the man himself states -
http://www.knifeforums.com/ubbthrea...=247156&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
Bob Dozier will do a full convex or partial convex if asked, although in either case it will cost, obviously. I'm not clear whether those he's made for people like Buzzbait were of the former or latter ilk.
In relation to the full vs partial convex issue, I'm still a little unclear on what the rationale might be for a blade NOT being fully convex. In that Fallkniven thread for example, there's a reference to blade strength.
http://www.knifeforums.com/ubbthrea...=247156&page=0&view=collapsed&sb=5&o=&fpart=1
Bob Dozier will do a full convex or partial convex if asked, although in either case it will cost, obviously. I'm not clear whether those he's made for people like Buzzbait were of the former or latter ilk.
In relation to the full vs partial convex issue, I'm still a little unclear on what the rationale might be for a blade NOT being fully convex. In that Fallkniven thread for example, there's a reference to blade strength.
Quite correct -
I mentioned Ken Warner's editor-ship of Knives 'XX (for just 20 years
- from 1981 through 2000 ) books merely as a reference to who the man is.Bill Moran's legendary knive are probably out of most of our finanical reaches, I again only mentioned his name as a good example -
however he did have plenty of people who studied with him - and who I think will produce full convexed blades that can be ordered or purchased.
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Opinels have a full flat grind...
otherwise known as a "zero-bevel edge".
hmmm......
perhaps we have a different understanding of "Convex" .....
You had me scrambling to check my Opinels -
I have two No.8's and on both I laid a ruler straight edge on various points on the face of the blade going from spine to edge -
do you know I have not found one single point where the face is FLAT against the ruler?
at all points the face is "convex" as I understand the word, ie: there is a curvature against the ruler, and the ruler can be rocked against the face - so it's not flat.
However you are correct that the blade is also zero bevel edged.
Just to be sure -
my 2 No.8's were bought several years apart, with the later one being about 3 years old with the cut-out on the locking ring which locks the knife closed.