Who puts different edges on their slipjoint blades?

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Nov 14, 2000
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I'm just wondering who puts different edges on their slipjoins? Or do you sharpen them all the same?

So, if you do what do or don't you do? and why.

I have a Queen Med stockman that I've put a polished convex edge on the main blade, and sharpened the spay blade to a polished zero bevel. Don't know what I'm going to do with other blade. Maybe a course edge that has a wide bevel for heavier cutting.

The convex edge on the mail blade was really becouse I could and it's really improved cutting. The the zero degree happened after reading "The Razors Edge" sharp edge, I just think the angle too thin for EDC cutting.
 
All my stockmen get the same treatment-

The main clip gets honed and stropped to razor edge.

The sheepsfoot gets a more abrupt corser edge, box opener etc...

the spey is dull as a butter knife for scraping, whatever.
 
Just picked up a Queen D2 stockman today. I have found these knives to be excellent users once you take that shoulder off the edge to get to a 0 bevel.
 
Bastid said:
Just picked up a Queen D2 stockman today. I have found these knives to be excellent users once you take that shoulder off the edge to get to a 0 bevel.

AMEN!!

I finally had to sharpen my Dogleg Jack in D2 and the only diamond hone I had was a small 4 inch pocket one. D2 is great but jez'!
 
I like a stockman, sheepfoot for general utility, clip for slicing (bread, fruit, etc.) and spey for delicate work, I usually sharpen all at about the same angles (lately 15/17 degrees per side, double bevels) but pay more attention to getting a very sharp smooth edge on the spey.

Luis
 
I put the same edge on all my blades, unless it is for a specfifc task.

Most of the time I just strop the blades periodically and try to maintain the original edge as long as possible.
 
This is why I carry a slipjoint. Multiple blades for multiple purposes. I think this is the slipjoints greatest strength. I have a one blade with a narrow bevel for soft items, (spey or pen blade), one for profiled for use in wood (I whittle a lot, so it is usually a coping or sheepsfoot blade) and one for general cutting (clip or spear blade). The general cutting blade is also the one I open and hand to others when they ask me for a knife to use.
 
Right on Guys, Queen's D2 may be hard to sharpen but well worth it. Just plan to have a hour free to sharpen each blade...

Bob, for me you hit it right on the head. Multi-blades = multi-purpose.
 
Interesting post. I sharpen my Queen stockman clip a little more obtuse for heavy work, the sheepsfoot **very** thin for delicate work, and the spey thin also for lighter work. I tend to favor the sheepsfoot with it's nice fine point.
 
My Hen & Rooster large stag stockman gets the main blade razor sharp, but at a slightly steeper bevel than the other two blades. The sheepsfoot and spey blades get absolute razor edges, as close to a zero edge as I can do.
 
until I read this, I thought I was special...

My Puma stockman gets a 15 on the sheepsfoot, a 20 on the main blade, and 30 on the spey.

Today, the 30 spey hacked open two cardboard boxes full of decoys, the main blade cut some cord to attach the weights and cleaned my geese- and the sheepsfoot is still sharp as when I left home...
 
I use a case amber bone chrome vanadium large stockman. Sharpen it with a lansky delux kit. Use 30 degree (degrees is for 1 side so that'd be 60 total) for the main clip and don't go beyond coarse or medium hones can't tell much difference btn the two though. 25 degree on sheepsfoot sharpen to fine, very sharp. and 17 degree ultrafine on the spey, wicked sharp. Then I bought a Spyderco Delice plain edge and a Sharpmaker and now carry the Delica sharped to 20 degrees per side with the sharpmakers medium hone. I carry the Delica more often but I still often carry my Case for versatility and old time sake. But thanks to the soften carbon steel of my Case I can sharpen all three of its blades in the time it takes to shapen the spyderco's 1.
 
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