Who's made their own scales?

[netguy1999]

Ok, first off, let me apologise if this topic already exists. Searching from my phone can be frustrating at times.

I am going to try to make a set of wood scales for my BK17 over the Christmas break. Are there any gotchas that I need to know about? What would be the best wood to use in terms of both esthetics and durability? Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Greenberg Woods]

I would say cocobolo or kingwood would be your best bets. Both are beautiful, durable and waterproof. Shoot me a message when you get a chance.

 

[LG&M]

I like Osage , part of the reason is I have it locally . It is a good stable wood.
I have made scales for my neckers and 16 from wood and My-Carta.

 

[NCSlice]

I started a set of mycarta but got on perma-hold due to lack of equipment and desire to finish by hand...that's some hard stuff!

I've made leather scales but its a bit different process I'd think.
Therefore my knowledge is limited to research. I will share a tip tho, which I recently picked up here that has and will really stick with me. When I read it, it was at first aha! then...duh lol. But I feel is important none the less. Because I always wondered how non removable scales got so perfect at the front near the choil/ricosso area without scratching the metal.

The tip is to shape and finish that area first by pinning the scales together, achieve desired shape, then sand and smooth to final level. Basically complete that area, attach scales(slightly oversized around the tang except for the front which should be completed) with pins and epoxy or what have you, then shape, sand, and finish the rest.

If your scales are removable then of course you can give a final sand and finish off the Blade, but this will give you perfect fitting permenant scales by sanding the area around the tang down exactly smooth for a professional look and feel and that area up front will be perfectly done without scratching the Blade if trying to sand it smooth etc.

I will always remember this if/when I get a sander and finally make my own lol.

Good luck, and keep us posted.
I'll be watching this one as well!

 

[n7titan]

I did mine with a belt sander and hand files. I'd say the part that requires the most attention are the pin holes. If you don't have steady hands, a drill press or the right sized bits, go find em.
Seems obvious, but I say that because the holes are the most challenging spots to adjust afterwards and still keep a tight fit and finish.

No part of this project is difficult really though; just go slow and steady. Brew some coffee, turn on some music, sit next to a campfire, and have fun :thumbup:

The tip is to shape and finish that area first by pinning the scales together, achieve desired shape, then sand and smooth to final level. Basically complete that area, attach scales(slightly oversized around the tang except for the front which should be completed) with pins and epoxy or what have you, then shape, sand, and finish the rest.

+1

 

[CM_Rick]

Use stabilized woods

 

[granitestateofmind]

I've had success with a few different woods; all but one set of those are epoxied and pinned on.....the bolt on set I gave away. Head on over to the Beckerhead Knife Making and Modification thread; there's a wealth of info there as well as quite a few pics of what other people have done. IMO if you find some wood you really like, just epoxy and pin them on, then finish the wood - I use about 2 dozen coats of wipe on poly (and now some of these blades have been in daily service for a couple years) - and you should be good to go. This method (if done well) will also prevent rusting under the scales. I have used maple, zebrawood, mayan rosewood, katalox and some others I'm drawing a blank on right now. The tweeners are a quite a bit tougher to do and keep the lanyard slot exposed, and you'll want some wood that has enough toughness for the little "nubs" if you decide to go that route.....I'd think making bolt-ons for the 17 would be pretty damn difficult. The last thing I'll mention is that you'll want to support whatever scales you make - especially if they're wood - by infilling the cutouts in the tang. Anywho, good luck! I think it's a worthwhile endeavor even if it turns out to be a disaster "learning experience". I'll leave you with this: even well epoxied on scales can be removed......

 

[netguy1999]

I've had success with a few different woods; all but one set of those are epoxied and pinned on.....the bolt on set I gave away. Head on over to the Beckerhead Knife Making and Modification thread; there's a wealth of info there as well as quite a few pics of what other people have done. IMO if you find some wood you really like, just epoxy and pin them on, then finish the wood - I use about 2 dozen coats of wipe on poly (and now some of these blades have been in daily service for a couple years) - and you should be good to go. This method (if done well) will also prevent rusting under the scales. I have used maple, zebrawood, mayan rosewood, katalox and some others I'm drawing a blank on right now. The tweeners are a quite a bit tougher to do and keep the lanyard slot exposed, and you'll want some wood that has enough toughness for the little "nubs" if you decide to go that route.....I'd think making bolt-ons for the 17 would be pretty damn difficult. The last thing I'll mention is that you'll want to support whatever scales you make - especially if they're wood - by infilling the cutouts in the tang. Anywho, good luck! I think it's a worthwhile endeavor even if it turns out to be a disaster "learning experience". I'll leave you with this: even well epoxied on scales can be removed......

Thanks for the insight! I was actually going to try to make them bolt on. I may have to rethink that...

 

[granitestateofmind]

Well, this thread needs some pics, so now you'll have an idea of what some of the wood looks like actually on a knife:

Katalox w/ maple "liners" on my 15 (and some inebriated filework):

Figured mayan rosewood on a ZHEN Damascus Nakiri (pre-ground blank, you add scales):

Quilted maple on another ZHEN; birdseye maple cutting board:

Zebrawood on my 11:

The one set of large BK&T bolt-on scales I gave away:

Lastly, wenge on another ZHEN bread knife. I will say the wenge is very prone to dealing out serious splinters and its interlocking grain, hardness and oiliness make it hard to work. Still....it makes for some beautiful scales, IMO:

 

[Rotte]

I made a set of scales for a BK2 once. I think I used maple. Turned out well. I mimicked the OEM scales and used a tiny chisel to cut hex-holes for the hex bolts. That took some patience. I gave that knife away, so I don't have a pic.

For my BK5 I replaced the scales with some micarta. The scales are a bit thin and I wish I had started out with slightly thicker scales. Micarta is a bit of a beast to work with, too. But the new handle is good and the knife is a user.

 

[netguy1999]

Well, this thread needs some pics, so now you'll have an idea of what some of the wood looks like actually on a knife:

Katalox w/ maple "liners" on my 15 (and some inebriated filework):

Figured mayan rosewood on a ZHEN Damascus Nakiri (pre-ground blank, you add scales):

Quilted maple on another ZHEN; birdseye maple cutting board:

Zebrawood on my 11:

The one set of large BK&T bolt-on scales I gave away:

Lastly, wenge on another ZHEN bread knife. I will say the wenge is very prone to dealing out serious splinters and its interlocking grain, hardness and oiliness make it hard to work. Still....it makes for some beautiful scales, IMO:

Those look great! I like the idea of the bolt on scales.

 

[NCSlice]

Bolt on can be done without nuts.
I used brass tubes from the "hobby" drawer in the hardware section at Lowes. Tapped it with I think 6/32 tap and used 6/32 x 3/8" screws. The tubes are an exact fit on the bk5 once the coating is gone from the holes. The 15 had to be drilled and that was quite a chore even with a drill press. After the fact it was suggested that a carbon tipped bit would have been better.



These are leather scales. I can dig up where I posted a WIP thread if you'd like but I'm not sure it would be much more help. Originally I used 1" aluminum Chicago screws and cut the threaded tube part off to use inside but they seemed weak. When I did the 15 I changed both sets to brass. I like having screws on each side...takes care of any asymmetrical OCD issues lol

 

[crimsonfalcon07]

I've done several. Word of warning. Wear a respirator, PARTICULARLY if you plan on using cocobolo. It's pretty stuff, but it's also a serious allergen, and you could end up with permanent health conditions. There are LOTS of great varieties of wood out there to use. Some require stabilization, some don't. If you want really premium stuff, check out Mark's stuff at Burl Source. He's a Blade Forums dealer, and has lots of nice pieces. But you may end up spending as much as the knife itself cost.