Why 1084?

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Among top-rated mastersmiths currently forging large, differentially-heat-treated "working blades", especially large bowies, 1084 seems to be the steel of choice.

Why 1084, specifically? In terms of the edge it will take and hold, toughness, strength, corrosion tendencies, what are its performance advantages over other forgeable steels such as 52100, 5160, 1095, L6, etc.? Is there anything better, and if so, why isn't it used instead?

Thanks in advance for contributing to my ongoing continuing education. :)

-Will
 
I'm just a newbie smith who has finished 3 (2 are 0-1, one is 1084) knives and is about to finish my fourth, but here's my response. I use 1084 for 2 reasons: 1. I can have much more control over the finished product in my own back yard and 2. - I have about 40 feet of 1084 barstock I gotta use up :) .

I think most smiths like to use it because it's a fun steel that forges well and you can do alot with it (heat treat wise). You can hand 5 smiths the same piece of 1084 barstock and they could make 5 different knives with completely different properties as far as spine strength, edge hardness and overall application. Now, you could do the same with 1095, but from what I've heard - for the longer chopping blades the carbon content is just a bit too high for comfort. From what I hear, 1084 is popular for the ABS bend test.

5160, again from what I've heard, makes a fine big blade but I've heard that it is also harder to forge to shape. Can't speak from experience on that yet but I think that's what Goddard said in his "Wonder of Knifemaking" when he make that stag/ironwood handled bowie.

I'd love to try them all someday - but I got some 1084 to go through first. :D :D

Tim
 
1084 is really close to being eutectic steel. I'm not sure what benefit that brings - maybe some kind of stability and ease of heat treatment?

Don Fogg has used a lot of 1095 on the recent blades I've seen from him, but 1095 is known to be difficult on the HT, and you probably would want hi-temp salt tanks to HT the blades reliably. Also, those were relatively small blades, and I don't know if it would be his steel of choice for longer blades.

5160 has a much lower C content, and hence will not be as hard. In addition, it was developed specifically to through harden (the Mn content I think?), which means it's probably harder to consistently get good temper lines (although many smith seem to be doing fine on that ground - maybe the temper line doesn't have the activities that you can get in 1084?) Finally, it's one of those high alloy steels that benefit from multiple quenches and cold temp cycles, which are just additional work. Multiple quench might also be a problem if you clay coat your blades as the clay sometimes chip away. I also think that 5160 suffers from the image of being "the beginner's steel of choice".

52100 is known for being a great steel, but again a capricious one (susceptible to overheating?) It also benefit from multiple quenches & cold temp cycles. Its high C content makes it liable to creating plate martensite instead of lath martensite during HT, if you over heat the blade by as little as 150F (according to something I read on Howard Clark's site.) Again, this calls for hi-temp salt pots. Finally, its hard to forge and might require a power hammer, depending on the shape in which you get it.

Those are just things that might be part of an explanation. I think that the big reason is that 1084 is a simple, cheap, widely available, steel, that has good reputation, has long been used by established makers, is fun to forge, etc...

JD
 
A couple of the advantages are that it is pretty easy to work and it is inexpensive. For makers that are trying to make their knives affordable for a wider range of cliental, the 10 series steels are a great choice.

I have noticed that the 10 series steels seem to take a great temper line as well. I am not sure if they are better for this than the other steels that you mentioned, but when clay hardened I have seen some fabulous temper lines on 1084 and the rest of the 10 series steels.

Many great knives are made from 1084. It is a very good steel for knives, in my opinion. I think that there is sometimes too much snobery when it comes to the steel we have want our knives to be made from.
 
So..."easy to work and inexpensive"?

I suppose those are good reasons for using it, especially for a beginner, but not exactly the answer I would have expected in the case of mastersmiths who are using it in $500-$1000 working blades. No end-performance aspects that come to mind, over the other steels mentioned so far in this thread?

I know John Fitch is using the steel in his ABS cutting contest knives, and blowing away competition, so I thought it might have some properties that are particularly desireable over other steels? Or is that kind of performance more about grinds, blade profile, edge geometry, and technique?

-w
 
1084 is pretty much a simple carbon steel with a few trace elements added. This makes it easy to forge, and more importantly, easier to heat treat properly. That, and it makes a great blade, leaves the bladesmith with the question of "Why change success?"

I have seen 1084 blades in action, from guys like Fitch and others, and it just seems to me that 1084 is a great steel. If John Fitch cant ruin a 1084 blade by chopping and hacking his way through 3-4" trees, I am not worried about my 1084 blade breaking anytime soon.
 
One BIG aspect that was not mentioned is consistency. Over the years I have watched the tolerances on element content within steels widen to the point where it is difficult to consistently heat treat the material. An example is 1095..........10 years ago the factory tolerance for carbon was .93 to .98% carbon. Today the tolerance has widened to .90 ti 1.05%. That may not seem significant, but in the realm of heat treating it is tremendous. I personally believe this is the main reason many find 1095 difficult to heat treat.....each batch varies so widely that a consistent method of heat treating is almost impossible to achieve.
On the other hand, 1084 (for what reason, I can't say) has remained fairly tight in the element content tolerances, and is therefore much easier to achieve a consistent, predictable outcome on the heat treat. Nearly all of the steels that are currently used in the forging arena have undergone this widening of element tolerances. A couple of exceptions are 52100, 1084, and the lower carbon simple steels such as 1035 and 1010. It has all been in the name of economy as the steel companies put it, but it does create hardships on those who depend on the consistency of the material(s) they use.
I suspect that most bladesmiths who keep a keen eye on things are using 1084 because they can be assured that consistent results can be expected with this material. I also suspect that some are using it without even knowing why.........(using it because this or that person recommends it, and tells them they can expect consistent results.)
 
Ed--

Thank you very much for that explanation. Consistency of results has to be the soul of heat treatment, and if 1084 is held to elemental tolerances that make the end product more predictable--and so more reliable--I can certainly understand its prevalent use among top bladesmiths. When I asked the question, I was hoping for a response from a mastersmith of your caliber.

Thanks again,
Will
 
Originally posted by WILL YORK
Ed--Thank you very much for that explanation. ... When I asked the question, I was hoping for a response from a mastersmith of your caliber.

So sorry we took valuable bandwidth. I'll be carefull not to encumber your threads next time.

JD
 
I don't think he was dogging you out Joss. Just glad to hear from someone selling the $500-$1000 range.

-Sam.
 
Ed, I am sure that consistency is one of the major factors that makes 1084 such a popular steel. As you mentioned though, 52100 and a couple of other steels are every bit as consistent. In these cases I think that the fact that 1084 is less expensive and is easier to heat treat becomes the main reason that it is used.

Just because some of the knives that use 1084 are $500.00 to $1000.00 and even higher, does not mean that cost is not a factor. These same knives will cost you more if other steels are used. Partially because these steels are more money and partially because they require more forging and are more difficult to heat treat.

Please let me know if you think I am wrong in my assumptions as I would hate to be going around with misconceptions.
 
Keith.... I think your mostly correct in what you've said. Other steels such as 52100 are more expensive, and more difficult to "nail down" the proper heat treating process. Having been a bladesmith for going on 18 years now, I also know that makers will tend to stick with what they have learned, and what they know, just as I have with 5160 and 52100. Makers tend to become products of thier environment, just as most folks do. For example, we in the NW really got the mosaic damascus thing going strong, as well as 52100, because a lot of us drew influence from Ed Fowler and Wayne Goddard. The makers east of the Mississippi generally tend to lean towards more conventional damascus, and 1084 for straight steel because that is the greatest influence there. These are always "moving targets" and flow through changes as time goes by, and influences change. If you look at it logically, the best makers seek improvement until they feel they have reached the limit of a given material, and THEN they move on to another "Challenge".
As for prices........that is influenced by so many things, you could write a small library about the subject. Many would scoff at me saying.....a big name maker can charge more for their work, but it is a fact. What most fail to realize is that whomever that maker might be, if his/her name is big enough to be a "top" maker, you can bet that years of blood, sweat, tears, and knowledge (spelled E-X-P-E-R-I-E-N-C-E) have been hard earned, and are worth that extra money they charge for thier work.
As far as material costs are concerned, I really don't think that it is a major concerned to makers who strive to create great blades.......if they know the material, and are confindent that they can produce a top notch product with it, they are going to use that material, spendy or inexpensive. I guess what I'm getting at is...... The price of the material has little to do with it....it's the knowledge and experience of the maker that creates the "best".
 
That was very well put Ed and I agree with what you have posted. I guess that when you are talking about a $1000.00 knife the cost of the steel does really figure much into the final price of the knife. Unless of course, it is some of that mosaic damascus. That stuff can really bring the price up.

Many times I have talked to makers about the steels that you use. What you posted about them wanting to use steels they are familiar with is spot on. There are makers that work in quite a few different steels as well as quite a few different kinds of damascus. There are also some that want to try something new so that they can broaden their skills, but for the most part makers want to stick to what they know best. Chances are, if you have spent years making your knives out of 1084, then you will know how to get the most out of it.

The above leads me to think that possibly the fact that 1084 is easier to work with and less expensive to buy means a poor, new maker might choose this as his/her first material to make knives out of. After working with it for a while they would then start to gain confidence in their ability to make a good blade with this steel. As they worked with it more they would become more and more proficient in getting the best out of this steel. Once they got to know 1084 inside and out, they would probably be reluctant to use other steels, as the learning process would have to begin again. This may well be one reason that quite a few makers work in 1084.


Edited because I left a word out.
 
The reasons I like 1084:

Forges like clay (well sorta)......5160 is a little stiffer under the hammer.

Consistent quality of the steel itself.

Great temper line. Out of the quench the scale just pops off the hardened area....it just "tells" you it hardened.

Extremely tough and GREAT edge holding ability.

Relatively easy heat treat.

Inexpensive too.

For me it is just about the right steel for forging. High enough carbon content, but not so much that it is stiff at forging heat. I love the stuff.
 
Thanks to all for your contributions here--everyone who has posted so far has added interesting points.

Greg Covington-

Thank you for fleshing out that overview. I know you like to forge 5160, and obviously 1084, and that you work in other steels as well. It really helps to see the "big picture" from someone with your experience.

Can you tell us how you rate 1084's toughness and edge holding against 5160? Any significant differences in your mind?

Thanks again,
Will
 
First off you would want to look at what the blades are intended to do. The main drawback to a low carbon steel, especially a plain carbon steel, is the lack of wear resistance, and very low corrosion resistance. However neither of these, have any influence on the performance during the cutting competitions for example, which are often used as a benchmark for forged blade performance.

1084 is a very solid steel, something like 5160 is much more tolerant of repeated high loads (hence being used for springs), and has a mild increase in wear and corrosion resistance. None of these properties would have any influence in the ability of a large bowie used for wood craft, or in cutting flesh, or bone. Unless you did a lot of skinning, it doesn't offer any significant advantage, as that can be abrasive.

Even if you go very high end and try something like CPM-3V, you don't gain anything for common work for such knives, which is generally bush craft. That is mainly dependent on hardness to enable a high resistance to edge roll and impaction, and toughness to prevent excessive fracture. You can't run 3V any harder, I know Phil Wilson has tried, and since edge strength is critical to determining edge geometry for such uses, the blades will cut the same initially.

To give a greater performance, you would want a steel that can be run significantly harder, without losing toughness. This would means you could slim down the profile without losing durability. Extra corrosion resistance, and wear resistance would be a bonus but would mainly give functional advantages for other types of blades.

A huge factor, as noted in the above is simply what a maker is experienced with.

-Cliff
 
Thank you, Cliff.

A couple of questions:

Originally posted by Cliff Stamp
...1084 is a very solid steel, something like 5160 is much more tolerant of repeated high loads (hence being used for springs), and has a mild increase in wear and corrosion resistance. ...

I don't have access to charpy scales on a wide variety of steels, or comparative hardness/wear resistance tables, either, so I appreciate the input very much.

It does sound like, from the above, that 5160 has the potential to be tougher, with better wear and corrosion resistance, than 1084. Do I have that right?

With the added factor of predictability in how these steels respond to forging and heat treat, and especially if elemental proportions vary more in 5160 than in 1084, then would you say any such potential improvement may be insignificant in the case of these two steels?

Also, Cliff, could you tell me about where 52100 fits, in terms of toughness, wear resistance and corrosion resistance, when compared against these two steels? I know you've done some testing of 52100 against 1084.

Originally posted by Cliff Stamp
...Even if you go very high end and try something like CPM-3V, you don't gain anything for common work for such knives, which is generally bush craft. That is mainly dependent on hardness to enable a high resistance to edge roll and impaction, and toughness to prevent excessive fracture. You can't run 3V any harder, I know Phil Wilson has tried, and since edge strength is critical to determining edge geometry for such uses, the blades will cut the same initially.

To give a greater performance, you would want a steel that can be run significantly harder, without losing toughness.

Excerpting from the above, "...hardness to enable a high resistance to edge roll and impaction, and toughness to prevent excessive fracture."

Is it hardness per se that enables resistance to edge roll and impaction, or isn't the difference in the strength of each steel at a given hardness significant? For example, if 3V is run at 61 Rc and you compare 5160, for example, at a similar hardness, wouldn't you be getting greater performance out of the 3V across the board in terms of strength, wear resistance and toughness? And doesn't that greater strength and toughness in the 3V allow the maker to build thinner edges that would in turn cut more efficiently? How does that jibe with your statement that, "Even if you go very high end and try something like CPM-3V, you don't gain anything for common work for such knives..." ?

Thanks again,
Will
 
Will, you are quite correct that even at the same hardness, there will be differences in strength among various alloys. However, I have not found these changes to be nearly as significant as even a very small change in RC. I have seen even extreme alloys (CPM-15V) fail to have the ability to compensate for a small RC drop and thus be outlasted edge wise by much simpler alloys (ATS-34) that were harder. I have also seen many of the cheaper blades fare exactly the same in regards to what angle will be functional for me in regards to limbing. Even though the alloys are all over the place, the hardness is usually the same, and time after time damage keeps setting in at a very similar range. Now for those blades, when you push up the RC (~10 points), and still keep the steels simple, you note a significant change in how the edge behaves. Thus hardness dominates to a huge extent over a lot of types of work. I have discussed this in detail with many other people who have looked at it detail. For example testing of simple alloys like W1 at 64-66 RC against high alloy stainless blades at 58-60 RC by Alvin Johnston (and confirmed by mps), as well as countless testing on RC and alloy effect by Phil Wilson.

I want to clarify though, I am not stating that it is all just hardness, nothing is ever this simple. For some types of cutting, wear resistance is very critical. For example when I looked at 52100 and D2 blades by Ray Kirk (same RC), the D2 one outlasted the 52100 knife over the long term, but I was cutting very abrasive material (used mats), and not only that, but I had to do very long term cutting, and many light touchups, to get past the point at which the edge holding wasn't just hardness dominated, because up to that point the edge holding was exactly the same. It would be interesting to look at something of the opposite of what I saw with those blades, like D2 at 58 RC vs 52100 at 60 RC to see when D2 would take over, which would be different for different materials being cut. Something I intend to play around with, just out of curiosity. In reality, you would just run D2 at 62 RC and thus swamp out 52100 in all aspects of edge holding, except fracture limited work.

52100 rises above 5160 in regards to wear resistance, but is not as high in regards to repeated high loads, or straight out impacts, neither resist corrosion very well. I have seen much more corrosion on 5160, but in more extreme cases than I have used 52100. The toughness of 52100 is usually not going to be the limiting factor for edge failure for most cutting work, as evidenced by Ray's blade, only being impacted by chopping through a concrete block, no gross fractures were evident. It would have been interesting to see if the greater toughness of some of the other steels would lead to less damage in such extreme uses as there was some fracturing of the very edge. Or look at the same blade at a higher RC in 52100 and see if the greater impaction resistance was functional, or would greater fracture simply take place. In actual functional use, the most I ever did to the edge on the knife was a barely visible ripple when I got sloppy doing some limbing, and the edge was very acute, ~10 per side if I recall correctly. Where I would want 5160 over 52100 was on a large blade which need to absorb high lateral loads and flexes on a regular basis, sword on sword contacts and the like.

In regards to 5160 over 1084, yes I would expect it to allow a slightly better blade for the above reasons. However I would not expect the changes to be sweeping. One of the critical factors that constrains blade performance is that while cutting is linear in angle (first order), strength is quadratic. This means that the effect of an increase in strenth is vastly undercut. For example, a blade which needs to be able to cut 40% better, needs to be fully twice as strong. Or for example, a 20% increase in strength, only leads to a 10% increase in possible cutting performance. I am just talking about straight push cuts, slices are a little more complicated, but the same principle holds. This is also a great benefit for low grade steels as the opposite holds. So a steel which is outperformed 2:1 in strength, only need have a 40% margin in cutting performance.

And again, as noted in the above, we are glossing over one of the more important aspects which is how you get maximum performance, and this isn't by any means trivial. Someone who is very experienced with 1084 will make a much better blade than he will out of 3V. You could in fact argue that he would be better off sticking with 1084 and keep advancing his blades by refining the geometry, technique and heat treatment rather than hopping from one steel to the next and restarting the process every few months as a new steel comes out.

-Cliff
 
Originally posted by Cliff Stamp
...Someone who is very experienced with 1084 will make a much better blade than he will out of 3V. You could in fact argue that he would be better off sticking with 1084 and keep advancing his blades by refining the geometry, technique and heat treatment rather than hopping from one steel to the next...

Obviously, this is the common denominator running through most of the responses to my original question. Thanks, Cliff.

Thanks to all,
Will
 
Originally posted by WILL YORK
Greg Covington-

Thank you for fleshing out that overview. I know you like to forge 5160, and obviously 1084, and that you work in other steels as well. It really helps to see the "big picture" from someone with your experience.

Can you tell us how you rate 1084's toughness and edge holding against 5160? Any significant differences in your mind?

Thanks again,
Will

Will...

As for my experience, and I strictly say mine, I get a keener edge with blades that I forge from 1084. Not to define it in any scientific terms, but the edge becomes extremely "sticky" when I sharpen on a Norton Fine India. I have been told this by a few of my customers also. Consequently, I have been told by users that 5160 doesnt quite come up to that feel. Edge holding seems to be just about equal for me....1084 maybe a little better. Both steels resharpen in a breeze.

That being said though...if forging gods came down and told me that all I could ever use again was 5160, I would not cry too loud. It is a superb steel and one of my two main users is 5160.

I chose 1084 for my main knife that I produce, the Combat Special, for all the reasons I mentioned in the earlier post, but mainly, I have supreme confidence in its performance in all aspects.

Here is a pic of a current one.
 

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