Hickory n steel
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- Feb 11, 2016
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They both have a 19" hickory handle, come with a sheath, and cost about 130$.
I believe the head weight on both is 1-3/4lb to 2lb, the CT comes in 2 lengths and both are listed at 2lb so I'm assuming that's the head weight ( otherwise the longer one would weigh more )
The CT does have a hardened poll unlike the GB, but the sfa has a much thinner bit which it's users love.
I'm inclined to think that the CT pack axe is probably a little better than the GB due to its hardened poll, the GB having a cheek to eye transition that seems less than ideal, the advantages that may come from those bevels, and the fact that the CT's thicker bit would split better.
However There must be something to be said about the sfa and it's thin bit if so many people love it as much as they do, so if only there was something as thin in the bit as a sfa but with a more ideal cheek to eye transition, better head balance, and a hardened poll this would be a great compromise.
It may not blow the pack axe out of the water ( that could probably be done with a plumb national or something ), but I'm sure it would the sfa and should certainly compare to the CT pack axe.
Well as it turns out such a head has existed from many many manufacturers for at least a hundred years and they're called a riggers axe.
Here's my " utility axe " as I've decided to call it.
( try doing that with a small forest axe or pack axe )
It's 20-1/2" the head weighs 1-3/4lb ( overall weight should be just over 2lb )
The head is a Vaughan in their 1080 steel, and seems to hold a pretty good edge. The cheek to eye transition is definitely less abrupt than the sfa, and it sure chops well and seems to split pretty well during my minimal testing.
my total cost was 20$ and change.
One could find something older from another manufacturer like plumb or something that may have a harder bit than this, and your cost could vary. Maybe the head costs you less , maybe you buy a more expensive ready made handle instead of modifying a boys axe handle, but no matter what I have no doubt that you'd be beating a GB small forest axe for a fraction of the cost.
This is what I've done, but I'd like to see what you've done along these lines.
This would be something like a 1-1/4lb - 1-3/4 hatchet head hung on a 19" or longer handle.
It could be a riggers axe, half hatchet of some sort, a Tommy axe, a standard scout type hatchet, or really any kind of hatchet head you've hung on a longer handle to make the most of its weight.
If you haven't done anything like this I encourage you to, Who doesn't
think about how much better and less expensive a vintage hatchet is than a Swedish boutique " bushcraft "axe ?
I believe the head weight on both is 1-3/4lb to 2lb, the CT comes in 2 lengths and both are listed at 2lb so I'm assuming that's the head weight ( otherwise the longer one would weigh more )
The CT does have a hardened poll unlike the GB, but the sfa has a much thinner bit which it's users love.
I'm inclined to think that the CT pack axe is probably a little better than the GB due to its hardened poll, the GB having a cheek to eye transition that seems less than ideal, the advantages that may come from those bevels, and the fact that the CT's thicker bit would split better.
However There must be something to be said about the sfa and it's thin bit if so many people love it as much as they do, so if only there was something as thin in the bit as a sfa but with a more ideal cheek to eye transition, better head balance, and a hardened poll this would be a great compromise.
It may not blow the pack axe out of the water ( that could probably be done with a plumb national or something ), but I'm sure it would the sfa and should certainly compare to the CT pack axe.
Well as it turns out such a head has existed from many many manufacturers for at least a hundred years and they're called a riggers axe.
Here's my " utility axe " as I've decided to call it.
( try doing that with a small forest axe or pack axe )It's 20-1/2" the head weighs 1-3/4lb ( overall weight should be just over 2lb )
The head is a Vaughan in their 1080 steel, and seems to hold a pretty good edge. The cheek to eye transition is definitely less abrupt than the sfa, and it sure chops well and seems to split pretty well during my minimal testing.
my total cost was 20$ and change.
One could find something older from another manufacturer like plumb or something that may have a harder bit than this, and your cost could vary. Maybe the head costs you less , maybe you buy a more expensive ready made handle instead of modifying a boys axe handle, but no matter what I have no doubt that you'd be beating a GB small forest axe for a fraction of the cost.
This is what I've done, but I'd like to see what you've done along these lines.
This would be something like a 1-1/4lb - 1-3/4 hatchet head hung on a 19" or longer handle.
It could be a riggers axe, half hatchet of some sort, a Tommy axe, a standard scout type hatchet, or really any kind of hatchet head you've hung on a longer handle to make the most of its weight.
If you haven't done anything like this I encourage you to, Who doesn't
think about how much better and less expensive a vintage hatchet is than a Swedish boutique " bushcraft "axe ?
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