Why Can't I Get my Sebenza 21 Shaving Sharp with the Sharpmaker?

Lenny

Lenny

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Oct 15, 1998
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The title says it all.
It came shaving sharp from CRK, but definitely doesn't hold an edge like some of the newer super steels.
So, I've been trying to get it back to the same sharpness with my Spyderco Sharpmaker with no luck.
Don't get me wrong, I can get it really sharp; enough to easily whittle paper and maybe shave one or 2 hairs,
but not sharp like when it was new.
And don't even talk to me about stropping. I've never been able to strop properly. Most of the time stropping for me does nothing
and the rest of the time it dulls the edge.
Very annoying because I've watched all the videos, and read all the tutorials on stropping and yet, I'm no good with it.
Any hints?
Should the strop be smooth and shiny, or rough and hairy for best results?
I really don't want to put the knife on the Edge Pro if I don't have to yet.
Thanks all.
 
Did you watch the instructional videos for the Shapmaker?

There is no substitute for stropping. Especially on a micro-convex bevel.
I use the smooth side of the leather with one micron diapaste and half micron diaspray, but others use the rough side with good results. I assume it also depends on the type of abrasive?

My finishing stone is always the Spyderco UF. Definitely use it if you have it.
 
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Maybe you’re already doing it, but if not, try very light pressure in the strop.

If it’s not that, maybe it’s the angle. Using a sharpie to color in the edge can help check that and get you to the right angle.
 
TrainedBullets said:
Maybe you’re already doing it, but if not, try very light pressure in the strop.

If it’s not that, maybe it’s the angle. Using a sharpie to color in the edge can help check that and get you to the right angle.
Click to expand...
Yep, I am already doing those things.
 
Is it possible you’re not fully hitting the apex with your Sharpmaker?
Also, I started getting better results by staying on the medium rod longer, and only moving to fine rods once there’s a sharp (but somewhat toothy) edge.

Incidentally, I recently bought the CBN rods. I’ve yet to put them to full use, but they seem REALLY coarse.
 
Pretty sure I'm getting to the Apex.
I feel a small burr on each side before switching sides.
I have the diamond rods.
Are the CBN rods more coarse?
 
Lenny said:
Pretty sure I'm getting to the Apex.
I feel a small burr on each side before switching sides.
I have the diamond rods.
Are the CBN rods more coarse?
Click to expand...

If you're getting a burr, are you effectively removing it before you try to cut or shave? If you're not removing the burr, it can fold over and the knife won't cut very well.
 
Lenny said:
I don't think so. I want to be able to maintain all my knives myself.
I'll only send it back if I really bugger up the blade.
Click to expand...
Fair enough, I have never sent my knives back for sharpening either. I have actually had very good luck with my older Spyderco Sharpmaker. I actually bought the ultra fine stones after waffling back and forth and to my surprise they made a real difference.
I hope you figure out what you need to change or do to get the edge that you are looking for.
 
Are you able to get other knives shaving sharp on your sharpmaker? How long have you had the Sebenza? Could be time to do the back bevel on the 30 degree setting.
 
knoagreen said:
Are you able to get other knives shaving sharp on your sharpmaker? How long have you had the Sebenza? Could be time to do the back bevel on the 30 degree setting.
Click to expand...
30 degree setting on the Sharpmaker? I don’t have that, I only have the 40 degree setting.
 
If you have a sharpmaker then you have a 30 degree side to place your stone and a 40 degree side to place your stone. They may label the 30 degree side the back bevel.
 
OK, success!
I marked the edges with Sharpie and started with the points of the diamond stones, 20 swipes per side.
Checking the edge under a magnifying glass, I assured that I was hitting the edge properly by the lack of Sharpie.
I then did 20 passes on the flat side of the diamond stones. I swiped slowly being careful to keep the blade perfectly vertical.
I then did the same on the brown, white, and ultra fine stones. Finished with very careful stropping and Voila, no hair left on my arm.:)
I guess have to go slower and be more aware of keeping the blade vertical. Thanks for all the input folks.
 
Lenny said:
OK, success!
I marked the edges with Sharpie and started with the points of the diamond stones, 20 swipes per side.
Checking the edge under a magnifying glass, I assured that I was hitting the edge properly by the lack of Sharpie.
I then did 20 passes on the flat side of the diamond stones. I swiped slowly being careful to keep the blade perfectly vertical.
I then did the same on the brown, white, and ultra fine stones. Finished with very careful stropping and Voila, no hair left on my arm.:)
I guess have to go slower and be more aware of keeping the blade vertical. Thanks for all the input folks.
Click to expand...
From the factory the edges might not have been perfectly profiled to 40 degrees, so the Sharpmaker wasn't quite doing the trick yet. But now that you've got the blade to match the rod angles with the diamond stones, I would reserve those only for serious resharpening and avoid them for regular touchups.
 
BD_01 said:
Incidentally, I recently bought the CBN rods. I’ve yet to put them to full use, but they seem REALLY coarse.
Click to expand...
I have the diamond rods and they're very course. I was able to reprofile a broken tanto tip in only a few minutes.

SQOBdtg.jpg

en6yRah.jpg
 
knoagreen said:
If you have a sharpmaker then you have a 30 degree side to place your stone and a 40 degree side to place your stone. They may label the 30 degree side the back bevel.
Click to expand...

I am pretty sure that I only have a single set of holes for my sharpening rods.

mB9Voxw.jpg
 
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