Photos Why doesn't Hinderer make a production liner lock XM-18? (See pics)

Joined
May 4, 2015
Messages
947
I came across some pictures of a few XMs Rick did for a TKI show a while back. They were 18 3.5s with g10 on both sides, and a titanium liner lock instead of the traditional framelock. While I'm a HUGE fan of his frame lock, I do enjoy what I percieve to be the benefits of a good liner lock. And these are some fantastic examples! Take a look at these beauties!

2cpajcz.jpg

2h710eb.jpg

23r8j01.jpg

2ed11dc.jpg

w15k6w.jpg

24mvqza.jpg

ic5t7o.png


I don't know about you guys and gals, but I LOVE the idea of a liner lock XM 18! bearing down on the knife during hard work would put stress on the scale, NOT the lock bar. So i guess, at least in my head, it would alleviate the issue with the lockbar being pressed further into the blade tang. Maybe i'm wrong. Either way, itd be really cool to see a production version of these. It's essentially what they're doing with Maximus. And they certainly could be made in the same modular fashion that the XMs are known for! Especially that bolstered model. If the bolsters were ti, they could be anodized and or textured, and sold individually. Not to mention the option for anodized liners as seen above! I've seen old threads showing A LOT of love for these pieces when they were originally shown. Anyone else think this would be cool? I'd love me a bolstered liner lock XM 18 3.5 slicer flipper!
 
Last edited:
I would love a liner lock xm18. It would seem kind of redundant to a frame lock even though there different. I like the way g10 on both sides grip. Then there is the fact that you don't push on the lock bar when your choking your knife.
 
Big fan of a XM-18 but I think a liner lock xm-18 would be a bad idea. It is a proven fact that majority of the time framelocks are much stronger than liner locks and during "hard use" the direct pressure your hand puts on the framelocks helps prevent the lock from slipping where linerlocks are more prone to slipping/failing. However you're statement of it being stronger/removing stress because of the scale is not a sound assumption from a physics standpoint. Also, why is the lockbar aging or as you put it "the lockbar being pressed further into the blade tang" an issue?
 
Last edited:
I understand what you mean by the lockbar aging/go inward more but you're statement of it being stronger/removing stress because of the scale is not a sound assumption from a physics standpoint.

Well no, not "stronger". But maybe a better means of adding extended life to the lockbar since it isn't being forced inward during use. If you're cutting down/forward, isnt all the pressure going backwards towards the stop pins/frame anyway? A liner lock's likeliness to fail would only come into play during use that puts force on the spine of the blade right? And shouldn't normal pressure on the cutting edge of the blade cause a liner OR frame lock to fit even more snugly into the locked position? Not trying to be argumentative at all. This is purely educational for me.
 
Last edited:
I don't think a lock should slip if made correctly. A knife that is cutting will have force on the stop pins. A knife that has force on the spine will add pressure to the lockbar. Also a lockbar that has 100 percent lock up has no more room to wear in. Any more wear to the lock face and you can have vertical blade play. Just had to post this. I don't see a frame lock or liner lock stronger or weaker if they are made right.
 
Why? Because people have been sold on the idea that anything other than a titanium framelock is going to have lock failure the first time they use it and cut their fingers off.

Especially the folks who buy Hinderers. They bought them for "hard use" (whatever that is) and you can't have a "hard use" liner lock. That's the rules.

Let's go to an extreme to make a point...If Hinderer took one of knives and made it a slipjoint...it wouldn't sell. How can you cut things "hard use style" with a slipjoint?!? That's a death wish! :D

It's just smart on Hindrerers part. Framelocks are "sexy." They sell. They are what people want. If it aint broke, don't retool to "fix" it.
 
I bought my hinderer and an 8lb sledge hammer to cut open car doors. Pffft cutting cardboard and wood.
 
Well no, not "stronger". But maybe a better means of adding extended life to the lockbar since it isn't being forced inward during use. If you're cutting down/forward, isnt all the pressure going backwards towards the stop pins/frame anyway? A liner lock's likeliness to fail would only come into play during use that puts force on the spine of the blade right? And shouldn't normal pressure on the cutting edge of the blade cause a liner OR frame lock to fit even more snugly into the locked position? Not trying to be argumentative at all. This is purely educational for me.

Well, also if you're in the mud/debris gets in the lock or water/liquids can force it to slip vs. a framelock you hand holding it in place could prevent that. Also, linerlocks are age/move over and that is more of an issue than a framelock. I have heard and seen many reports of linerlocks aging and developing rock lock. Pretty much anyway you put it, a XM-18 framelock would be more durable than a titanium linerlock.
 
I bought my hinderer and an 8lb sledge hammer to cut open car doors. Pffft cutting cardboard and wood.

lol :D Folks want "hard use" looking. It's cool. Makes one feel all "rawwwrr. Hard Use! Extreme!"

Nothing wrong with that.

And you got to have a frame lock to get that look.

Is a well made other type of lock going to fail for 99.999999% of what people do? No.
If you are of that 0.000001% who does stuff that might make a well made lock fail, then shouldn't you just use a fixed blade? Yes.

But what fun is that, you know? ;)
 
lol :D Folks want "hard use" looking. It's cool. Makes one feel all "rawwwrr. Hard Use! Extreme!"

Nothing wrong with that.

And you got to have a frame lock to get that look.

Well, Medford just came out with a liner-lock version of the Praetorian.
A bit more economically priced (still pretty expensive though), but it looks plenty "hard use" capable, whether "hard use" means just looking like the knife is tough, or whether it actually means using the knife a bunch.

So yeah, I think a liner-lock Hinderer would sell just fine as a regular production item, especially if it was a bit cheaper (but still pretty expensive, naturally).
 
I think he should make some. If they have then they should still have the ability to machine wise. They have the slipjoint model out. I doubt the price would be much different than standard xm. The liner is titanium and then the added cost of another g10 scale. I would get one even if it was the same price as a frame lock.
 
I think he should make some. If they have then they should still have the ability to machine wise. They have the slipjoint model out. I doubt the price would be much different than standard xm. The liner is titanium and then the added cost of another g10 scale. I would get one even if it was the same price as a frame lock.

It's cheaper and easier to make a liner than a full scale though.
Thinner material and all that jazz, plus a bit less in the way of machining operations.
that's why the Medford liner-lock is quite a bit less than the frame-lock one; it is a titanium liner.

As for making a second G-10 scale, having bought G-10 and titanium, G-10 is WAY cheaper.
It is also so much easier to work with, like insanely easier (I've worked with both).
Titanium is a giant pain in the ass to work with.
 
It's cheaper and easier to make a liner than a full scale though.
Thinner material and all that jazz, plus a bit less in the way of machining operations.
that's why the Medford liner-lock is quite a bit less than the frame-lock one; it is a titanium liner.

As for making a second G-10 scale, having bought G-10 and titanium, G-10 is WAY cheaper.
It is also so much easier to work with, like insanely easier (I've worked with both).
Titanium is a giant pain in the ass to work with.
So something in between a xm slippy and regular xm18. I would like the xm-18 3 inch dimensions with a 3.5 inch blade. Liner lock and no forward finger choil or flipper.
 
So something in between a xm slippy and regular xm18. I would like the xm-18 3 inch dimensions with a 3.5 inch blade. Liner lock and no forward finger choil or flipper.

That's kind of what I would be thinking. :)
 
Would love a liner lock xm especially if they took the opportunity to do a 'lightweight' version with just the single ti liner on the lock side.
 
Back
Top