Why don't most people use the CS screw holes?

M

moogoogaidan

Joined
Feb 21, 2009
Messages
669
Hey guys, just got into tomahawking and find the heads slipping down the haft a bit annoying. I'm eventually going to get some artificial sinew wrap around the bottom of the head to prevent this, but was wondering why most people don't take advantage of the screw hole in the heads of Cold Steel hawk heads. What are the negative affects of this? Would there be a difference between using screws versus pins through the holes? Thanks!
 
The reason that I took the screw out of my CS hawk is so that I could re-haft it in the field. If your head is constantly slipping either you're using the bottom of the haft as a hammer or, I might think, your haft is ill fitted.


God bless,
Adam
 
My speculation is that Cold Steel uses that retention system because drills, tapped holes, and screws are cheaper than making haft and head have a snug, exact fit.

People don't use the holes because they take their CS hawks apart, clean up the eye, and alter the haft so it has a good fit with the head. At that point the hole isn't needed any longer.
 
If the fit is not adequate and you chop with the head only held by the screw, the head will move and the screw will dig a trough into the handle. There is a vid on youtube about the Trail Hawk, where this has happened. Not pretty - the head won't slide down the haft, but it'll wiggle.


Ookami
 
The set screw does not work because the screw is holding onto bare wood. As you use the hawk, the hole enlarges, and the head wobbles. If you install a metal thread insert on the haft, it might work better, but why bother? What the head wants to do is work its way up and wedge itself on the flared tip, but the screw prevents this. Hawks were never meant to work with a set screw. I did some sanding and deburring of the eye, the friction fit works fine. I rarely have the head slide down when I am using it. It has only happened when I baton the head; perhaps this might happen it you throw it, but just slam the hawk upside down on a piece of wood and go back to whatever you were doing.
 
I take all of my axes and hammers apart in the winter and butter the handles with slow epoxy. The wood has a low moisture content at that time. The wedges and the flat nails are all buttered with epoxy. When the epoxy cures, the summer moisture is sealed out. The handle has an intimate contact with the head, and nothing will come loose again if the process is properly completed. The purists may object to appearance, but the tool is ready to perform.
 
I remove the screw and fil the hole because when I crash my axe though a sandwich, I do not want sauces and meat and such settling into that area.
 
On wood-handled tools, I always fill in the gaps with PlastiDip. Holds them snug, absorbs some shock, and is easy to remove if need be. Just thought I'd share.
 
Those throw away set screws eat the haft. I hate it when I get one with the screw already set.

Regards

Robin
 
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