Why is it so hard to find a 110 locally?and

M

MacTech

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Jan 7, 2006
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611
technically speaking, it's not hard at all, after all, I just need to stop at the local outfitter in Kittery Maine and I can buy as many as I can afford, but I'm not looking for the model with the leather sheath, or finger groove model, and I already own a 110 Auto I bought there that I love....

No, I'm looking for the mass-market 110 with the nylon sheath, I'm actually really looking for just the sheath, as I prefer horizontal belt carry, and the nylon sheath actually wears more durably than leather (the stitching in the 110 Auto belt loop is already backing out and it's only been 2 weeks)

So, I figured I could buy another nylon sheath from Buck, pay the additional shipping fee, and wait for it to ship, or for a few dollars more, pick up a 110 from the "Big Box Mart" or "Horton's Item Cube" and have a backup 110 as well

Thing is, none of the three "Big W" retailers in my area, nor the sole "Richards" carry the 110 in any form, nylon or leather sheath...

And now that I discover that Copper and Clad has some 110's in 5160 Carbon Steel left, it makes the decision more difficult, as a carbon 110 is massively tempting...
 
You can order online and send it to your local 'W' store for pick up at no charge for shipping. If you do not like the product, leave it with them.
 
The only thing that I think is wrong with the nylon sheath is that if you are rough with it then the button snap breaks right off because the nylon is just not as strong as leather. That's what happened to my the nylon sheath I had, probably because I opened and closed it too many times.

I noticed that when I carried the 110 with the nylon sheath it is more light weight to carry, but after the button snap broke off on my nylon sheath I tossed it in the trash and grabbed my extra leather sheath for the 110, much more durable , and I also have a 110 from 1988 with the original leather sheath still going strong.
 
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The new leather sheaths aren't holding up like the old ones did. I'm very surprised at how well the nylon ones last.
 
Gedlicks, thanks for the offer, I'm kicking around ideas on sheath solutions, if I could find a way to modify the stock leather sheath to horizontal carry, that would solve my problem, I have no skills in leatherwork though, might be a good learning experience...

....resistance to that carbon steel 110 falling....
 
You need a 5160 110. :thumbsup: Resistance is futile. It's a great knife. I think mine came with a leather sheath.
 
Yes, resistance was futile, I ordered one from C&C about a half hour ago, oak scales and conventional blade shape, the drop point looked interesting, but I love the splinter picker tip of the clip point, the drop point looked too much like an oversized SAK main blade and less like the classic 110

Hmm, how long for it to reach Maine?
 
Excellent! :) They deliver pretty fast. But here is something to get you by until it arrives.

Buck110-5160_zpsdkayojad.jpeg


Buck%2B110%2B5160_zps11aepk2w.jpeg
 
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Nice looking 110, the oak seems to have a "honeyed" color that compliments the brass elements nicely, is the oak resin stabilized like the "dymondwood", or is it more like a gun stock with a rubbed oil finish? Does the oak pick up a "patina" and darken with use?

How quickly does the 5160 pick up a patina? I find that Case CV (1095, IIRC) patina grows rapidly when used to cut up apples for snacking, my Yeller Delrin trapper has a solid patina from apples
 
I took these when I first got it. I'm glad I did. I forced the patina just because I never tried before. I stuck it in a potato, set it in apple cider vinegar, put condiments on it, cut apples, onions, etc. I tried scrubbing and sanding to try to even it out. Basically I worked it over. It does take longer than 1095, I guarantee that. My new 118 in 5160, I'm just using it normal on food like apples and onions and letting it do it's own thing. It's coming along just fine.

I don't know for sure if the oak is dymondwood but appears to be resin stabilized. I want to say it's gotten darker, but it could be my eyes or how it looks against the now aged bolsters and blade.
Buck5160%2B110_zpsdb9vk5mi.jpg


Buck5160%2B110b_zpsclutyokd.jpg
 
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MacTech said:
Gedlicks, thanks for the offer, I'm kicking around ideas on sheath solutions, if I could find a way to modify the stock leather sheath to horizontal carry, that would solve my problem, I have no skills in leatherwork though, might be a good learning experience...
Click to expand...

Learning leather work is not hard. Go up to the "Sheaths And Such", sub forum. There is a tutorial sticky near the top, it has links to all the tutorial threads. Read most of those and you will be well on your way.

Adding a belt loop or two to the factory leather sheath would be quite easy actually. I would probably do two, one on each end, so that I could leave the vertical carry loop accessible. Start by cutting some leather the width of the sheath for your loop/s. Take a sharp knife and cut out the factory stitching. (Carefully cutting between the two pieces of leather cutting thread only.) Using something sharp and pointy, poke holes in your belt loop leather for the stitching. Use the existing hole in the sheath leather as a guide for punching your holes in the belt loop leather. Get a couple harness needles and some thread, and sew it all back together using the saddle stitch. See the above mentioned tutorials for instruction on how to do the saddle stitch, or Tandy has a free video on their website.

O.B.
 
Once again, my penchant for over thinking things strikes again, it's a technician thing, our "simplest" first concept is needlessly complicated

I figured out how to convert my leather sheath to horizontal, the answer was in front of me the whole time....

A couple simple paracord wraps on the ends of the belt loop, as I straddle the sheath over a belt loop on my jeans anyway, the loops can't both migrate to the same end, plus, I'll have some paracord available for emergencies should I need it
 
The oak is laminated/stabilized/diamondwood, of some type of white oak which gives it that honey color.

I love the smell of post oak and it looks a lot like that.
 
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