why no recon scout in a2 or

jbmonkey

jbmonkey

sure sure
Platinum Member
Joined
Jun 9, 2011
Messages
30,783
3v for that matter.;)

seriously though why was o1 picked over a2? both great steels, just sheer curiousity got me on why this and not that steel. although 3v would be better than both for me.
 
While A2 is a very good steel, few people use It much anymore other then Bark River. I personally prefer O1 over A2 in most situations. 3V is what we all hope for in next years lineup for the Recon Scout and Trail Master. The only problem is it will be substantially more expensive and 5/16" thick O1 for under $100 with a nice sheath is very tough to beat.
 
wonder why a2 has faded away? regardless thanks for the info. i love my o1 recon scout.....
but a 3v version would be great even for more money.
 
Hopefull coldsteel will switch their O1 lineup to A2. Should be similar in overall performance and ease of sharpening with a tad better corrosion resistance and edge holding.
 
I'd love all of the Cold Steel knives in A2 or CPM3V. A2 is a really good steel. Similar performance to O-1 in most uses but significantly tougher and better edge holding, depending on the heat treat. So according to most of the charts I found, at least on paper, A2 is supposed to be definitely superior to O-1 for knife steel use. I don't know why more makers don't use it. Is the air cooling process more difficult for manufacturing? But like it's mentioned above, Bark River uses it a lot, and they do a great job with it.
 
So far O1 has been decent as far as edge retention for me. A little light chopping and batoning and the edge held up ok. As far as performance it seems no worse or better than the 1095 on some of my other blades. O1 has one big shortcoming at least for me, rust. I've tried lubriplate food safe grease, weapon shield, Remoil, WD40, 5W-30, 0W-40, 10W-40(All Mobil), Chainsaw chain lube, All in One, and some I can't even remember and the damn O1 still just rusts. I've even smoothed the surface with 400 grit sandpaper and then with my scotch brite pads on my air grinder. I then clean it with alcohol and liberally apply whatever new oil or grease I'm trying this week in the hope that maybe this time would be different.

I have plenty of knives made out of 1095 that haven't been taken care of hardly at all, none of them rust up like this O1. I'd be happy with 1095, A2, or D2. None of them are super expensive and wouldn't skyrocket the prices on the Recon Scout or Trail Master. They already do D2 on the Leatherneck series so sourcing wouldn't be a problem. From what I've seen and read, CS does a very good job on the heat treat for their D2. They have experience with it already so it would probably be easier to implement than an all new steel. I also wouldn't mind a DLC coating either;)
 
mastiffhound said:
So far O1 has been decent as far as edge retention for me. A little light chopping and batoning and the edge held up ok. As far as performance it seems no worse or better than the 1095 on some of my other blades. O1 has one big shortcoming at least for me, rust. I've tried lubriplate food safe grease, weapon shield, Remoil, WD40, 5W-30, 0W-40, 10W-40(All Mobil), Chainsaw chain lube, All in One, and some I can't even remember and the damn O1 still just rusts. I've even smoothed the surface with 400 grit sandpaper and then with my scotch brite pads on my air grinder. I then clean it with alcohol and liberally apply whatever new oil or grease I'm trying this week in the hope that maybe this time would be different.

I have plenty of knives made out of 1095 that haven't been taken care of hardly at all, none of them rust up like this O1. I'd be happy with 1095, A2, or D2. None of them are super expensive and wouldn't skyrocket the prices on the Recon Scout or Trail Master. They already do D2 on the Leatherneck series so sourcing wouldn't be a problem. From what I've seen and read, CS does a very good job on the heat treat for their D2. They have experience with it already so it would probably be easier to implement than an all new steel. I also wouldn't mind a DLC coating either;)
Click to expand...
Yes, for me also, O-1 seems to develop rust spots faster than any other steel. Perhaps just forcing a patina on the O-1 knives might be the solution.
 
mastiffhound, you are doing it right as far as care goes. I find the same in my knife and now paste wax it after the alcohol. It comes off after cutting something but until then it does very well. I don't have any rust whatsoever when sealed off from the air. I have stored o-1 knives for 2years with no rust here in extra humid NC when sealed.

Joe
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top