I am going to be purchasing my first knife sharpner in a week or two and would like some oponions. It seems here that everyone seems to love the Sharpmaker 204 & 203. I have seen the Lansky (standard, deluxe, diamond) advertised several times and am wondering if this is a comparable sharpner. Could some of you users give me your input on a good sharpner and why? I don't want to purchase a sharpner and decide in a month or two I should have purchased a different one. thanks.........
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Why Sharpmaker and not Lansky
- Thread starter gort
- Start date
Having had Lansky's, Gatco's and Sharpmakers, it is the Sharpmaker 204 that wins hands down. It is the quickest to set up and the easiest to use.
It is the one thing in my knife collection that I would not part with. Still wish it came with a coarse stone though Sal
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C.O.'s-"It takes balls to work behind the walls "
[This message has been edited by Jailhack (edited 25 November 1999).]
It is the one thing in my knife collection that I would not part with. Still wish it came with a coarse stone though Sal
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C.O.'s-"It takes balls to work behind the walls "
[This message has been edited by Jailhack (edited 25 November 1999).]
- Joined
- Oct 3, 1998
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This is very much a "buy what you like better" decision -- nothing wrong with choosing the Lansky. The Lansky's most obvious advantage is the multiple angles you can choose.
The Spyderco 204 only has 2 angles, but they are two exceedingly useful angles, so I'm happy with it. In addition, clamping systems like the Lansky can have trouble with fully flat ground blades, and certain other blade types -- the Spyderco sharpens all blade types easily, regardless of spine thickness, grind, etc. With the Lansky, if you have a long knife, you might have to re-clamp during the sharpening process; the Spyderco has no clamps and handles long knives exactly the same as short knives.
In short, the Spyderco is quick and easy to set up, easy to use, and results are excellent.
Joe
The Spyderco 204 only has 2 angles, but they are two exceedingly useful angles, so I'm happy with it. In addition, clamping systems like the Lansky can have trouble with fully flat ground blades, and certain other blade types -- the Spyderco sharpens all blade types easily, regardless of spine thickness, grind, etc. With the Lansky, if you have a long knife, you might have to re-clamp during the sharpening process; the Spyderco has no clamps and handles long knives exactly the same as short knives.
In short, the Spyderco is quick and easy to set up, easy to use, and results are excellent.
Joe
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Gort, Klatu Virada Nicto!
(Oh, how I amuse myself with silly Sci-Fi references!!!!!)
ANYways, I like the Spyderco version better cuz I find it to be idiotproofer. Yes, that IS a word.
I never had any luck with the Lansky due to my inability to get it to clamp in the blade at the right position.
The Spyderco only asks you to bring the knife straight down, period.
I admit to being a terrible klutz, and in the 25 years of trying to sharpen a knife, I have been completely unsuccessful (that's the Albanian spelling, by the way) in getting even a remotely sharp edge with anything other than the Spyderco.
I have the older version, with only the single angle setting but plan on getting the new one real soon. I still have a hard time sharpening the curves in blades, but the straight edges shave my head when finished.
If you're looking for a simple sharpening system, you will no doubt be satisfied with the Spyderco.
Then again, these things ain't too costly, so keep the Lansky in mind for later on. I suspect that with skill, the Lansky will give a finer edge due to the angle choices as well as the 4 stones. For me though, I'm happy to get a very good edge with no skill on the Spyderco.
VG
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Vampire Gerbil: Nosferatus Rodentus Moderatus; similar to a domestic gerbil, except for the odd accent and little black cape.
(Oh, how I amuse myself with silly Sci-Fi references!!!!!)
ANYways, I like the Spyderco version better cuz I find it to be idiotproofer. Yes, that IS a word.
I never had any luck with the Lansky due to my inability to get it to clamp in the blade at the right position.
The Spyderco only asks you to bring the knife straight down, period.
I admit to being a terrible klutz, and in the 25 years of trying to sharpen a knife, I have been completely unsuccessful (that's the Albanian spelling, by the way) in getting even a remotely sharp edge with anything other than the Spyderco.
I have the older version, with only the single angle setting but plan on getting the new one real soon. I still have a hard time sharpening the curves in blades, but the straight edges shave my head when finished.
If you're looking for a simple sharpening system, you will no doubt be satisfied with the Spyderco.
Then again, these things ain't too costly, so keep the Lansky in mind for later on. I suspect that with skill, the Lansky will give a finer edge due to the angle choices as well as the 4 stones. For me though, I'm happy to get a very good edge with no skill on the Spyderco.
VG
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Vampire Gerbil: Nosferatus Rodentus Moderatus; similar to a domestic gerbil, except for the odd accent and little black cape.
- Joined
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- Messages
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I gave away my sharpmaker 203.Everyone else says the spyderco is idiot proof,but i couldn't get it to work well for me.I ended up with a DMT kit that works just like a Lansky.It was on sale 1/2 price-$17.99 I believe.This rig worked so well for me I gave the Sharpmaker to my dad.He has problems with the sharpmaker also.I am sure the product is great.It must be a genetic thing that keeps us from holding the blade straight while drawing it down the sticks.He is going to buy the DMT setup also.I dont know if the clamp on the DMT works for blades over 1/8" thick but I believe the Lansky does.Sharpenings that once were frustrating ordeals,now take about a minute and I can duplicate the same razor edge at will.Different strokes for different folks.
troy
troy
Sharpmaker 204 is my most used. As already said it is faster to set up and use. It also has a few less parts to tote than the Lansky and its clones. Because of a few variables, (blade length, grind type, human ability)a repeatable angle is somewhat difficult IME.
L8r,
Nakano
L8r,
Nakano
I've got a Lansky, a DMT, and a Gatco in addition to my 204. Guess which ones gather dust? The 204 is the only system that give me consistent results and works with ALL my blades.
I'm sure the others work beautifully for other people, I just seem congenitally unable to get anything but the spydie to work for me. Every time, a fantastic edge.
I'm sure the others work beautifully for other people, I just seem congenitally unable to get anything but the spydie to work for me. Every time, a fantastic edge.
- Joined
- Oct 2, 1998
- Messages
- 1,874
I have yet to even come close to getting a good edge using an older Spyderco system. In fact, almost every knife ended up even duller than it was before I tried sharpening it. I bought a Lansky diamond system and have had *much* better results with it.
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Kelly
SenatorsPlace.com
AKTI Member #A000289
Deo Vindice
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Kelly
SenatorsPlace.com
AKTI Member #A000289
Deo Vindice
- Joined
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- Messages
- 1,317
I have the Lansky set-up and have been fairly happy with it. I'm wanting to try the Spydie but after reading these posts I think I'll just invest in some diamond stones for the Lansky. The only thing I don't like about the Lansky is that yes, I do have to re-clamp on some blades but my big fear is that the clamp will mar the teflon finish on my folders.
Not only did my lansky mar the coating on a couple of blades, it also scratched the satin finish on others. I had to clamp it down that tight to get a grip.
The DMT, on the other hand, while made of a non-scratch plastic, doesn't open wide enough for much but my smallest folders; certainly not wide enough for any of my fixed blades.
I dearly wish I were one of those guys who can just whip out a stone and 'whisk, whick,' turn out a surgical instrument - I just haven't got the touch. Spydie, for me, has been a great investment.
The DMT, on the other hand, while made of a non-scratch plastic, doesn't open wide enough for much but my smallest folders; certainly not wide enough for any of my fixed blades.
I dearly wish I were one of those guys who can just whip out a stone and 'whisk, whick,' turn out a surgical instrument - I just haven't got the touch. Spydie, for me, has been a great investment.
I have both the Landsky and the 204. My Landsky has the diamond sharpeners. I like the Landsky for the initial edge, using the extra course sharpener. Once the edge is established, I use the other Landsky sharpeners down to the fine for the final edge. The knife is scarey sharp when done with the Landsky. On the negative side of the Landsky, it does take some practice to get the feel of it. Also on the Landsky,I set the blade in about 1/4 inch from the end of the blade holder on larger blades. I also put masking tape on the blade, where it makes contact with the holder. The 204 is great to use after that, as I can resharpen my knives very fast with it. The 204 has 40 & 30 degree options. The 204 is also much quicker to set up, and is used dry, where oil must be used on the Landsky. The 204, I believe, does have a carrying pouch. I hope this helps.
I bought Lansky during my military service 90-91. My pal there had one. It was the first time I saw a sharpening system. He got me one from Norway (I think).
At that time most of my knives were puukkos. With lansky it was/is not possible to keep the beavels as they should be in a puukko BUT I couldn't sharpen them free handed either (to factory sharpness)(no wonder because I only had coarse stone
). I have been using Lansky since.
This year I got my first serrated knives and bought also 204 sharpmaker. Now I sharpen my serrated knives, all my spydercos and kitchen knives with it. For kitchen knives it works wery well, for serrated it is my only possibility and for plainedged spydercos it works.
I bougt plain edged Calypso jr ltwt to train my skills with 204 before I use it to more expensive or dear knives. I can sharpen my calypso jr to same sharpness it came but with lansky I easily get sharper edge (600 grit stone is my finest so I can still get better buying 1200
). Other problem with sharpmaker is that the edge after using it is not as consistent(sorry I can't find better word) visually. There are always larger variations in edge angle with 204 than using lansky. That leads to not as consistent beavel.
I am getting better and better results with sharpmaker but still lansky is my sharpening system for plainedged knives with blades less than 6inch long. All other knives I sharpen with sharpmaker(I dare not use it to my Civilian and Sifu). With lansky one does not need any particular skill only time - with sharpmaker skill is important part of sharpening (at lest to my sharpness standards).
I need them both. If I had to choose between sharpmaker and lansky I would grudgingly take lansky.
At that time most of my knives were puukkos. With lansky it was/is not possible to keep the beavels as they should be in a puukko BUT I couldn't sharpen them free handed either (to factory sharpness)(no wonder because I only had coarse stone
This year I got my first serrated knives and bought also 204 sharpmaker. Now I sharpen my serrated knives, all my spydercos and kitchen knives with it. For kitchen knives it works wery well, for serrated it is my only possibility and for plainedged spydercos it works.
I bougt plain edged Calypso jr ltwt to train my skills with 204 before I use it to more expensive or dear knives. I can sharpen my calypso jr to same sharpness it came but with lansky I easily get sharper edge (600 grit stone is my finest so I can still get better buying 1200
I am getting better and better results with sharpmaker but still lansky is my sharpening system for plainedged knives with blades less than 6inch long. All other knives I sharpen with sharpmaker(I dare not use it to my Civilian and Sifu). With lansky one does not need any particular skill only time - with sharpmaker skill is important part of sharpening (at lest to my sharpness standards).
I need them both. If I had to choose between sharpmaker and lansky I would grudgingly take lansky.
I have both.
I use both.
I use the Lansky first, then use the Sharpmaker to finish. The Sharpmaker can't really do a decent job if the edge is extremely dull. It is excellent though for maintaining an edge.
The Lansky did come in very handy also when I used the stones to remove the tool marks from the slab sides on my Ruger .22.
When I really need sharp, the old Norton India Oil-Stone is the only way to go.
VG:"klatu barada nikto" is the correct spelling and pronounceation
http://mason.gmu.edu/~weinberg/gort.html
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(!)
[This message has been edited by Hal (edited 26 November 1999).]
I use both.
I use the Lansky first, then use the Sharpmaker to finish. The Sharpmaker can't really do a decent job if the edge is extremely dull. It is excellent though for maintaining an edge.
The Lansky did come in very handy also when I used the stones to remove the tool marks from the slab sides on my Ruger .22.
When I really need sharp, the old Norton India Oil-Stone is the only way to go.
VG:"klatu barada nikto" is the correct spelling and pronounceation
http://mason.gmu.edu/~weinberg/gort.html
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(!)
[This message has been edited by Hal (edited 26 November 1999).]
What Hal said--only I have the GATCO, not the Lansky.
Personally, I think you need both, especially if you want to reshape an edge or sharpen a very dull knife. For that, I use the GATCO coarse stone. For finishing, or sharpening a mildly dull blade, the Sharpmaker.
I bought a Schrade Sharpfinger the other day and the edge was a mess. It took me 45 minutes with the GATCO to reconfigure the edge and put a proper bevel on the knife. I finished it up with the Sharpmaker and a strop and WOWZER, it's a razor! Head shaving sharp.
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Hoodoo
This time, like all times, is a very good one, if we but know what to do with it.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson
Personally, I think you need both, especially if you want to reshape an edge or sharpen a very dull knife. For that, I use the GATCO coarse stone. For finishing, or sharpening a mildly dull blade, the Sharpmaker.
I bought a Schrade Sharpfinger the other day and the edge was a mess. It took me 45 minutes with the GATCO to reconfigure the edge and put a proper bevel on the knife. I finished it up with the Sharpmaker and a strop and WOWZER, it's a razor! Head shaving sharp.
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Hoodoo
This time, like all times, is a very good one, if we but know what to do with it.
--Ralph Waldo Emerson
Like B. Miller & Hal, I have & use both Lansky & 204 systems. IMO, they both have their place. In my experience, the Lansky is superior for re-beveling blades to my liking. I've tried leaning a diamond stone against the 204 for this purpose but I find it awkward and slower than the Lansky.
Once I've first sharpened a blade to my liking, the 204 does a great job of keeping it sharp. The one exception to my "Lansky first, 204 later on" rule, is if the knife already has a sufficiently acute edge angle.
Joe Talmadge mentioned a problem with using Lansky type systems with fully flat ground blades and certain other blade types. What can happen, if you follow the instructions for the clamp and keep the sides parallel, is that one side of the clamp may follow the grind on one side of the blade while the other side will make contact with only the spine. If you attempt to sharpen a blade that is so clamped, you can wind up with different angles on each side of the blade. To get around this problem, I do not attempt to keep the clamp sides parallel, but rather ensure that each side makes full contact with the blade.
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Cheers,
--+Brian+--
I may be goin' to hell in a bucket, Babe, but at least I'm enjoyin' the ride.
Once I've first sharpened a blade to my liking, the 204 does a great job of keeping it sharp. The one exception to my "Lansky first, 204 later on" rule, is if the knife already has a sufficiently acute edge angle.
Joe Talmadge mentioned a problem with using Lansky type systems with fully flat ground blades and certain other blade types. What can happen, if you follow the instructions for the clamp and keep the sides parallel, is that one side of the clamp may follow the grind on one side of the blade while the other side will make contact with only the spine. If you attempt to sharpen a blade that is so clamped, you can wind up with different angles on each side of the blade. To get around this problem, I do not attempt to keep the clamp sides parallel, but rather ensure that each side makes full contact with the blade.
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Cheers,
--+Brian+--
I may be goin' to hell in a bucket, Babe, but at least I'm enjoyin' the ride.
- Joined
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- Messages
- 4,842
A few people have mentioned that the initial re-bevelling with the Sharpmaker can take a while. That is definitely true. It's especially true if (say) the initial bevels were at 24-degrees, and the first time you sharpen now you have to get them all the way down to the Sharpmaker's 20 degrees.
I use a trick that makes the initial re-bevelling blazingly fast, faster than a lansky with diamond hones, even. I take a DMT 6"x2" x-coarse diamond hone and lean it up against one of the v-sticks in the Sharpmaker, which maintains the angle. Re-bevel that side, then move the DMT to the opposite stick and repeat. A DMT x-coarse hone will re-bevel most knives in seconds, and by using this trick you re-bevel exactly to the Spyderco's angle! Now that we're re-bevelled, you can do your regular sharpening process with the Spyderco.
I described this a bit more in How to Make the Spyderco Sharpmaker Perform: www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/004609.html
BTW, the way I use my Sharpmaker 204 on my folders is... First, I grind in thinning-bevels (what Spyderco calls "backbevels") with the 15-degree angles. I grind this bevel to within 1/32"-1/64" to the very edge, but no need to go all the way. The objective here is just to thin the knife up. Spyderco suggests grinding in the "backbevel" last, but there are advantages to grinding it in first as I suggest.
Then, I switch to 20-degree angles, and grind in the cutting bevels, using the process described in the FAQ. Grind one side only on the coarse stick until there's a burr along the entire length of the other side of the blade. Then repeat on other side of blade. Now start switching sides between strokes. Switch to finer sticks, and continue switching between strokes, LOWERING the pressure you're using as you go. Final strokes should be very light. If any burr is left, do whatever method you choose to remove it: double-ground or *short* stropping.
Joe
I use a trick that makes the initial re-bevelling blazingly fast, faster than a lansky with diamond hones, even. I take a DMT 6"x2" x-coarse diamond hone and lean it up against one of the v-sticks in the Sharpmaker, which maintains the angle. Re-bevel that side, then move the DMT to the opposite stick and repeat. A DMT x-coarse hone will re-bevel most knives in seconds, and by using this trick you re-bevel exactly to the Spyderco's angle! Now that we're re-bevelled, you can do your regular sharpening process with the Spyderco.
I described this a bit more in How to Make the Spyderco Sharpmaker Perform: www.bladeforums.com/ubb/Forum1/HTML/004609.html
BTW, the way I use my Sharpmaker 204 on my folders is... First, I grind in thinning-bevels (what Spyderco calls "backbevels") with the 15-degree angles. I grind this bevel to within 1/32"-1/64" to the very edge, but no need to go all the way. The objective here is just to thin the knife up. Spyderco suggests grinding in the "backbevel" last, but there are advantages to grinding it in first as I suggest.
Then, I switch to 20-degree angles, and grind in the cutting bevels, using the process described in the FAQ. Grind one side only on the coarse stick until there's a burr along the entire length of the other side of the blade. Then repeat on other side of blade. Now start switching sides between strokes. Switch to finer sticks, and continue switching between strokes, LOWERING the pressure you're using as you go. Final strokes should be very light. If any burr is left, do whatever method you choose to remove it: double-ground or *short* stropping.
Joe
i saw this post and i just have to respond. i don't have a sharpmaker, but i do have a GATCO with a few mods. this is only my experience, so don't take it as gospel. i like the wider hones on the gatco rather than the narrow ones on the lansky. except for revese curves they are great. the gatco clamp is a POS, IMO. i got a DMT clamp and love it for folders, but as was said above, it only opens to 1/8". that's fine for most folders, and it doesn't scratch blade finishes. i got a lansky clamp for bigger blades. you can get a pretty good hold on flat ground blades with it. open up the front a little more and then turn the back screw to the max. it gives you more contact. i also got a lansky ultra fine hone (1200 grit) i can get spyderco factory type edges with this and stropping on my jeans. it is great to regrind bevels, such as on benchmades. it takes a while and does take practice, but i love it. i just strop after tough use and maybe use a steel to maintain my edge. i will agree that this setup is awful for maintaining, but for my uses, it works for me.
Hey Guys,
I have the Lansky and you might try this to keep the clamp from scratching your blade:
I put a small square peice of a napkin on the spine of the blade when I clamp it in. I tighten the clamp as much as I can then tear off the excess napkin leaving only what's under the clamp. Doing this makes the clamp hold the blade a bit more smoothely (I think) and still holds the blade plenty tight. Granted, I haven't had my Lansky very long and have only used it a couple of times, so it's possible that the clamp might still scratch my blade even with the napkin. But it hasn't scratched it yet! Only time will tell.
By the way, I do like my Lansky, but still plan to buy a Sharpmaker someday, and might buy an X-Coarse DMT as well.
I have the Lansky and you might try this to keep the clamp from scratching your blade:
I put a small square peice of a napkin on the spine of the blade when I clamp it in. I tighten the clamp as much as I can then tear off the excess napkin leaving only what's under the clamp. Doing this makes the clamp hold the blade a bit more smoothely (I think) and still holds the blade plenty tight. Granted, I haven't had my Lansky very long and have only used it a couple of times, so it's possible that the clamp might still scratch my blade even with the napkin. But it hasn't scratched it yet! Only time will tell.
By the way, I do like my Lansky, but still plan to buy a Sharpmaker someday, and might buy an X-Coarse DMT as well.
My only problem with the Lansky is the same as many others here, The clamp will scratch the blades spine, very easy to see on a black coated blade! For me the Sharpmaker 204 is the way to go, Ive also got the 203, which if you can get a good price on one get it, the difference between the two is not all that different.
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~Keith~
"War to the knife and knife to the hilt"
[This message has been edited by Kdarmy (edited 26 November 1999).]
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~Keith~
"War to the knife and knife to the hilt"
[This message has been edited by Kdarmy (edited 26 November 1999).]