Why Stabilize?

Disco Stu

Disco Stu

Joined
Nov 9, 1999
Messages
1,137
Why is it that every time someone asks about using wood for a handle they're told "well, maybe, if you get it stabilized" or something to that effect. Why does EVERYBODY have to stabilize wood to use it for a handle? I'm not going into the jungle anytime soon and I doubt most of you are. I take care of my knives, meaning a wipe down with another coat of Tru-Oil every now-and-then is not only bearable, but enjoyable. Sure I can understand stabilizing wood on a knife you're selling. You knever know what the buyer will put the knife through. But I'd say at least 50% of the people here only like to play around and make knives for themself (At least for now). For thousands of years now, knives have been made with un-stabilized wooden handles so why is it so important to do so now? Some of you act like the handle will rot and fall off within a week if it's not 'stabil'.

OK, rant mode off.
 
From my point of view, the cost of stabilization is offset by the time saved when compared to finishing a non-stabilized handle. Also, many of my favorite woods would not be viable without stabilization due to inherent softness or spalting.
If you don't want to use stabilized wood, don't. It is the customer who ultimately determines what is best for them.


[This message has been edited by Kaos (edited 03-21-2001).]
 
DS, make few knives and put your name on them and you'll find out why most makers want stabilized handle materials.

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Take care!! Michael
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Always think of your fellow knife makers as partners in the search for the perfect blade, not as people trying to compete with you and your work!
http://www.nebsnow.com/L6steel
Buzzards gotta eat, same as worms!!!
 
That's a fare enough question.

We do kind of go off on having it done. But for the cost, and the amazing quality improvement that can be achieved, it's well worth it.

I use many woods that "can't" be stabilized, such as cocobolo.

But I have some spalted maple burl that is some of the most beautiful handle material I've seen. A fighter I made handled in this stuff gets more comments than stag, ivory, oosic, whatever...

Had that wood not been stabilized, I don't care what you rub into it, it wouldn't have been possible to use it. It WAS punky...you could chip it out with your fingernail. NOT NOW.

For some of the woods like curly (tiger) maple. I think you can get a better finish if you take the time to hand-rub tung-oil, leather dye, etc.

Woods that are naturaly way too light for knife handles can be transformed into a heavy/dense wood. Such as myrtle wood burl, maple burl, cherry burl, spalted woods. And it is big protection if you use ivory, bone, etc. That's why I like it. If you haven't already done so, you might want to check out W.S.S.I.'s website

http://www.stabilizedwood.com/index2.shtml

smile.gif

Nick
 
That answered my question quite nicely Nick. I didn't think about woods that actually would fall apart if left natural.

And L6, sure I can see the point, I even said so. But I've made a few handles now (Ebony and Walnut mostly) and I've found the wood to be suited for a long life after only a few coats of 'Tru-Oil'. Good stuff, for finishing gunstock.

I guess I just got tired of seeing some new guy ask a question about a wood handle and get 'stabilize it' shouted at him.
 
Some woods that are particular dense do not benefit or shall I say, don't benefit much at all from stabilization. These woods in particular are lignum vitae, desert ironwood (honey mesquite), cocobola and ebony. This is due to a number of reasons. One being the density the other being the natural oils in the wood.
Other less dense or less oily woods do. One benefit from stabilization is finishing time. Anyone that has ever done a "super glue" finish can appreciate this. The other which has already been mentioned as well is to keep the wood from falling apart. If you have ever seen a maple burl in its natural state you will note how porous it is.

C Wilkins
 
naturalized wood? Hmm, this is a new term to me. I am about half way thru with my first knife, a file knife and was going to make the handle out of a piece of old gunstock mahogany. Will this work?? Thanks willp

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It's not what is said, it's who says it.
 
p58, gunstock mahogany should work fine for a knife handle. it's one of the hard woods with high oil content that does'nt require stabilizing. a few coats of minwax oil should do the trick! to comment on the origdenal question, stabilization lets you use woods with a big WOW! factor. calif, buckeye dyed white, and gothic ash, are two big sellers for me!

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Laurence Segal www.RHINOKNIVES.com
 
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