The different colors of LED have different voltage drops. No matter what bettery and what LED you have, eventually the LED will light dimmer and dimmer, and then not at all because the battery voltage will fall below the point where the LED will be able to light up. For any one battery set up, the higher the forward voltage of the LED, the lower the current draw, the slower the LED will draw current, but the LED may not be able to use all of the batteries total capacity before the battery voltage falls below the minimum forward voltage of that LED. For comparrison, here are the nominal forward voltages of common colors of LED, the voltage and amp hours of common batteries, and some calculations of run times.
Here is one company's
Color Chart, other companies use different chemistry for specific colors and so have different voltages. The photon2 bright green is a higher voltage than this chart's for example. Average voltages are probably:
infrared = 1.5V
red = 1.7V
brightred = 1.9V
orange = 2.0V
yellow = 2.1V
green = 2.1V
brightgreen, aqua = 3.6V
white = 3.6V
blue = 3.6V
UV 430nM = 4.6V
Photon single battery is a CR2032 which is a 3V Lithium with 200mAh capacity.
Photon double battery is CR2016 which is also 3V Li but with only 80mAh, so the capacity of the pair is 6V at 80mAh.
So a white that lasts 10 hours on an
80mAh battery has to average somewhere around 8mA. The start current is rather higher and it tapers off over that time. These white LEDs can operate up to about 30mA, and will operate down to a small fraction of a mA for a very dim but uncredibly long lived light. I ran one on a pair of AA batteries for 2 years before it cast absolutely no light. Of course this means the forward voltage is actually rather less than the nominal 3.6V and not all white LEDs will actually do this. The Data Sheet for Panasonic 2016 shows that for 2mA the voltage per cell is only about 2.7V and falling fast. At the needed 8mA it must down to the nominal 1.8V meaning that a majority of power in the white photon light's batteries goes to heat inside the cells, not to the LED.
A red LED on a single CR2032 has
200mA to work with, but only about 1 volt to drop across the cell's internal resistance. At 2+ mA the 2032 cell is down to 2.7V and falling fast. I assume before it reaches 5mA it will be down to the LEDs nominal voltage. The yellow and green will reach nominal voltage of 2.1V at a lower current draw than the 1.7V red meaning the single cell greens last the longest.