Why the tight screws?

Tsujigiri · Feb 4, 2011

Why is it that so many companies find the need to overtighten the screws on their knives? I just got another Benchmade 943 today, and one of the screws was tightened down so hard at the factory that it's completely stripped and I can't get it out.

I had the same problem with the Spyderco Phoenix. I can send it back for an exchange (can't do so for the Phoenix because it's discontinued), but it really is a hassle and I don't see why these high end companies can't get something as simple as this right...

unit311 · Feb 4, 2011

I agree. Tight screws in general piss me off. You don't have to go nuts on a screw for it to stay put. When I was working on cars this was always one of my hang ups.

Toyz · Feb 5, 2011

Are they overtightened or did they use loctite on the screws?

You may want to hit the screws with the tip of a hot soldering iron before trying to loosen - it should help break the bond.

What I hate is when a knife has a standoff that has screws on both sides, and when you go to loosen the screw on one side the standoff spins, forcing you to have a second driver to hold the screw steady on the other side of the knife.

iandh · Feb 5, 2011

I do know that in manufacturing situations, a lot of companies use torque screwdrivers or calibrated impact drivers. What's easy for an impact with no damage to the fastener head, is stuck hard for a standard driver.

I do agree though that sometimes they go a bit overboard.

Tsujigiri · Feb 5, 2011

Toyz said:
Are they overtightened or did they use loctite on the screws?

You may want to hit the screws with the tip of a hot soldering iron before trying to loosen - it should help break the bond.

What I hate is when a knife has a standoff that has screws on both sides, and when you go to loosen the screw on one side the standoff spins, forcing you to have a second driver to hold the screw steady on the other side of the knife.

The ones with loctite came out easily, but one of them was overtightened so that my driver just spins in the socket; it's been stripped almost completely.

True, having to mess with both sides is annoying too. Or when they build it so only one side has a screw, but the other side can rotate freely in the pivot.

charlOOsi · Feb 5, 2011

Same here with the 943. My torque bit set (I think the T6 or T4?) tip broke trying to loosen it up.

brets-ftw · Feb 5, 2011

yeah just tried to clean my needs work and the pivot screw wont come out as the backing has stripped

xmtgx · Feb 6, 2011

Same happened with my spyderco stretch 2 in CF. Stripped a body screw, i asked for a replacement and they said its not made here so they cant replace it, so i send it in to them and they say its to hard to remove....

I tried spot welding a nail on the head of the screw so i can loosen it. You guys know CF melts from a 1/4 second of spot welding next to it!!!
Filled it in with epoxy :/

Sithus1966 · Feb 6, 2011

brets-ftw said:
yeah just tried to clean my needs work and the pivot screw wont come out as the backing has stripped

I had the same problem and this was my fix for that. I used a Dremel tool to make two small holes in the handle each side of the pivot to fit a fine tipped needle nose plier in there to hold it. The clip is so big on the Needs Work that it will cover up what ever you do. You can't put the clip anywhere else anyway.

nightman · Feb 6, 2011

[QUOTE from Tsujigiri; The ones with loctite came out easily, but one of them was overtightened so that my driver just spins in the socket; it's been stripped almost completely.

Happened to me on a recent purchase from Benchmade. One handle screw spun freely right out of the box. Very annoying.

marthinus · Feb 6, 2011

Simple answer is (and many wont like to hear this but): The company does not want you to take the knife apart.

snowreaper1 · Feb 6, 2011

I stripped the screws on my paramilitary and manix 2. I really dislike the use
of torque bits on all knives though. Especially the really small ones. There just
to easy to strip. I would they rather use regular screws, like Emersons, or hex
bits.

bada61265 · Feb 6, 2011

heat generally loosens overly tight screws, regardless of locktite or no. i would give this a try, you need a sacrificial driver that fits in the screw hex or torx, heat the driver with a flame not too close to the scales, the heat transfer after a miniute should loosen the screw. use a different driver as the temper could go out of the heated one. as to a stripped out head the best solution on one this size is going to be drilling it out with a reverse or left hand drill bit of appropriate size. obviously again heat the screw first. worst case is the screw head gets drilled off the screw and you can pull off the scales to remove it with a pliers or small vice grips. imo these are methods that are relatively easy to me but might be hard for some with less mechanical experiance. so some thought to sending it to the factory for repairs or just living with the knife as is should be made with the consideration that further tampering could do more damage.

Tsujigiri · Feb 8, 2011

Just sent the 943 to the factory today, hopefully it comes back perfect like my other one. I also finally got the Phoenix screw loose by rotating the part. Scratched up the liner, though... if it wasn't so good looking, I wouldn't put up with these fit and finish issues.

tiguy7 · Feb 9, 2011

In my experience, there are some TORX bits out there that are not made to close tolerances. The same thing is true for the TORX recess in the screw head. Take your TORX bit and place it as far as you can into the screw head recess. Twist it back and forth using light pressure. If there is play, you are likely to strip the recess when you apply full torque. Try different brands of bits to be sure that you have an intimate contact between the tool and the part. The same principle applies to Allen (hex) bits and recesses. The neat thing about the Allen bits is the fact that you can measure the tool across the flats with a micrometer to uncover substandard tools. The TORX system has more contact area than a similar sized Allen part. On paper the TORX system is superior to the Allen system.

unit · Feb 9, 2011

tiguy7 said:
In my experience, there are some TORX bits out there that are not made to close tolerances.

Ding Ding Ding...

you can not do much about the screws or the heads, but you can buy the BEST tools you can afford. Harder steel will deform less, and tighter tolerances mean a better fit to the average fastener.

I can not tell you how many times I have talked to people blaming "cheap screws/nuts/bolts" for a problem that does not seem to exist for a guy with superior tools. A friend I work with was griping about the screws in his clip being cheap garbage that stripped out the first time he tried to reposition the clip. I grabbed my Snap-on driver kit and relocated his clip without issue, and asked him what the problem was.

I am not poking at anyone here....but I urge everyone to take a look at their drivers and think about how much you paid for them and how expensive the stuff is they work on. You do not have to pay a fortune for good tools, but if you have the cheapest drivers you can find (and you find yourself stripping screws), perhaps a better driver bit might solve some of your problem.

Handwrecker · Feb 9, 2011

unit said:
You do not have to pay a fortune for good tools, but if you have the cheapest drivers you can find (and you find yourself stripping screws), perhaps a better driver bit might solve some of your problem.

I'd would be willing to bet that this is the issue. I always snug everything up tight (not stupid tight, but real tight) whether I'm working on knives, bikes, cars, or anything. Quality, non-damaged tools make all of the difference. I don't think I've ever stripped a single screw or bolt using a quality driver or hex wrench, but it happens in an instant with anything that's slightly damaged or loose tolerances.

Tsujigiri · Feb 9, 2011

I looked at the screws, though, and they were actually stripped when I got them from the factory. But you do make a good point a proper tools. What kind of Torx bits do you guys recommend? I know unit mentioned Snap-on...

gapster46 · Feb 9, 2011

I just got a Cold Seel AK-47 (first non Spyderco blade) and it took two hands to open. I just used my Torx screwdriver to loosen up the pivot screw, and now the blade opens nicely. The screw was very tight, but I just kept trying Torx heads till I got one with no play in the screw head, and loosened very carefully. Ive never had to do that with any of my Spydercos.

EricV · Feb 9, 2011

Tsujigiri said:
I looked at the screws, though, and they were actually stripped when I got them from the factory. But you do make a good point a proper tools. What kind of Torx bits do you guys recommend? I know unit mentioned Snap-on...

IMO over priced for something like torx bits, but they make some great handtools otherwise. Wiha is a great company for bits, very well made and affordable.