Why won't TRU oil dry?

[Sleeper0311]

I put a TRU oil finish on the handles of my WWII and Gelbu Special. The first attempt, after a week of drying, which is normally dry to the touch after a day, simply left a waxy coating on the wood. It was not sticky at all, which TRU oil is when it's trying to dry. It simply felt as though I'd rubbed it down with parafin wax. I used steel wool on it and put on another coat.

After a week, parts of the finish were dry to the touch while other sections were still sticky. So, more steel wool and another coat. This time, (third application) the finish took on the entire handle. I was able to put three or four more coats and the result is beautiful. (I don't know how to post pictures or I would as I'm rather proud of the result.)

The karda and chakma for both khukuri, however, are another story. The karda for my Gelbu special turned out great after three applications (just like the khukuri handles), but, both chakma and the karda for the WWII just will not dry.

Prior sanding before the first coat, and a coat of Tru Oil once a week for four weeks, and it still will not dry with a week between each attempt.

Is there something in this wood (I believe it's satisal) that hinders the oil finish from taking?

 

[Bawanna]

I'm thinking there's something in the finish that isn't allowing the Tru Oil to get in. I've ran into rifle stocks that do that. It just stays on the surface.

More sanding or some sort of finish remover probably has to happen.

 

[jdk1]

If it's neem wood, the wood itself has a lot of oil content. Otherwise, it could be that it neded more sanding to remove the original "finish". In my experience, many khuks from Nepal have handles finished by polishing with the same compound used on the blade (usually at the same time resulting in light woods like neem being grayish until cleaned well). Sometimes it's quite thick. Maybe that's what's going on here. There was a tutorial a long time ago by "Warty" about using Murphy's Oil Soap to remove this buildup. Good luck.

 

[Steve Tall]

...There was a tutorial a long time ago by "Warty" about using Murphy's Oil Soap to remove this buildup...

Here's the tutorial (photos are missing):
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/783053-Removing-Rouge-from-a-Handle

In the few years since that thread was written, it's my impression that the HI handles aren't getting the "rouge" buffing like they used to, so a light sanding might be all that's needed before applying an oil finish.

 

[Sleeper0311]

Thanks to everyone for the information on this as its had me rather perplexed.

I'm not sure what type of wood this is. I can usually tell the difference between oak, pine, and cedar, but, that's about my limit, and I know this isn't one of them.

This wood is a dark brown color, with some areas being a uniform dark brown with no grain visible, and others a dark golden color with the grain showing. The parts with the grain showing take the finish readily, with the uniform dark brown causing the problem.

The karda for my Gelbu Special took the finish beautifully with "swirls" showing in the grain. The chakma for it, and both the karda and chakma for my WWII have the darker color. It seems that these may have absorbed more of the original treatment by the Kamis.

Can anyone tell me how to post pictures? (as this may help in the diagnosis) I don't want to use the wrong method to address this and mess anything up permanently.

 

[Shavru]

Sleeper0311, In another post Karda mentions that the Kami's don't use anything to finish wood except wax. I am guessing that your C&K still have a lot of wax in the wood and that is why the oil isn't seeping in. Just a guess and hopefully someone here with more woodworking skills than I (we have many real artists here) can help you get it figured out and fixed.

 

[davidf99]

If it's neem wood, the wood itself has a lot of oil content. Otherwise, it could be that it neded more sanding to remove the original "finish". In my experience, many khuks from Nepal have handles finished by polishing with the same compound used on the blade (usually at the same time resulting in light woods like neem being grayish until cleaned well). Sometimes it's quite thick. Maybe that's what's going on here. There was a tutorial a long time ago by "Warty" about using Murphy's Oil Soap to remove this buildup. Good luck.

Thanks for that info. I refinished two neem wood handles that were grey color until I sanded and sanded and sanded. Under all that grey was a beautiful grain and some nice, subtle colors. It makes sense that what I was doing was removing polishing powder that had blended with the oil in the wood.

 

[Svashtar]

I've used the following procedure based on a Steve Ferguson post, which was in turn based on info from Walosi and Yvsa, with great results; note the comment about chandan and rosewood, which is also true of neem, which explains the long set-time problem; using a hair dryer or low-setting heat gun really helps. (Neem was not being used much on HI handles when this was written):

"

Hi Steve,
If you have some antique khukuris, don't try to make them look too new, as it will lessen their collectors value. Only do what is necessary to preserve them, and put them in "using" condition. (my opinion only)

For newer pieces...

Brass and horn can be buffed with a cotton wheel on a bench grinder, or even chucked in an electric drill. The red rouge polishing compound that comes with the buffing wheels is good for brass and horn. You apply the red rouge to the running buffing wheel, then buff the work. Reapply frequently. DANGER The buffer is the most dangerous power tool in the shop, so be careful. Nothing like a 3600 rpm buffer grabbing a razor sharp knife and throwing it at 60 miles per hour.

When buffing horn, use light pressure and don't stay in one spot too long, as it can burn. If it has deep scratches, you can use 400, then 600 grit sandpaper first.

The carved wood handles are cleaned with a toothbrush and mineral spirits (paint thinner). After drying for a day, I use a toothbrush again to work some Tung Oil, or Tru-Oil Gunstock finish, or Watco Danish Oil finish, into the carved handle. A couple of coats is usually sufficient.

For smooth wood handles that I want to really shine, I use the following process. Good luck and have fun!

Steve Ferguson



First, use 2-3 layers of masking tape to cover the sharp edge of the knife for safety.
1. Use mineral spirits or paint thinner and a toothbrush to remove the red rouge polishing compound if necessary, and wrap masking tape around the bolster to protect it from scratches.
2. Start sanding with 220 grit sandpaper. When down to bare wood, move to 320 grit, then 400, 600 grit, always sanding with the grain. I use a hacksaw blade with the "set" of the teeth ground off the sides to clean out the grooves.
3. Apply a heavy coat of Tru-Oil with your finger. You can even sand the wet Tru-Oil with 600 grit sandpaper to make a slurry of wood and finish to help fill the grain. Smooth it off with your finger.
4. After 2 days wipe off any that is still tacky, and let it dry 1 more day.
5. Lightly sand with 1000 grit wet or dry sandpaper. Wet the sandpaper in a bowl of water. It makes the finish very smooth, and keeps the paper from loading up. You don't want to remove finish, just dull it. You can reuse this piece of sandpaper until you complete one handle.
6. Dry off the handle thoroughly and recoat with a VERY THIN coat of Tru-Oil.
7. The following night, if the finish is dry, wet-sand, dry it off, and recoat with a THIN coat of Tru-Oil. Repeat every night until the pores are filled, and you can look deep into the finish and see the soul of the handle. This will be from 10-20 coats.

No stain is used.

Chandan and Rosewood are very oily woods. I have had problems with the Tru-Oil staying tacky for many days. If this happens, after each coat I heat the handle with a hair dryer for 2 or 3 minutes to set the finish. It seems to harden the finish before the woods natural oils can leach into it.

I'm not recommending these methods, just reporting what I've done. As always, your mileage may vary.

Thanks to Walosi and Yvsa for their input and past posts regarding refinishing handles!

I'm fortunate to have a 20" Kumar Kobra (by Amtrak) from Steve with a Tru-oil handle finish that will knock your socks off, which was won in a raffle for Sgt. Khada's son Ram to help pay for his medical school. Based on the above tutorial I started with a Rusty Sgian Dubh by Yuvraj with Sisau wood handle, which turned out very well, and have done several others since.

Before:



After:





Good luck and have fun. :thumbup:

 

[jdk1]

Thanks for that info. I refinished two neem wood handles that were grey color until I sanded and sanded and sanded. Under all that grey was a beautiful grain and some nice, subtle colors. It makes sense that what I was doing was removing polishing powder that had blended with the oil in the wood.

Glad to help. It was an eye opener to realize how beautiful some of the wood was once worked over.

 

[Shavru]

Wow Svashtar, I am amazed at the depth of the wood in that "after" ALmost looks like you did a whole new handle instead of just refinishing. I am guessing I am going to be wearing out some sandpaper soon based on that result.