Why would one need a special tool to sharpen a recurve (wicked edge)

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Jul 7, 2015
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This would probably be a lot easier for me to comprehend if I had the sharpener mentioned in the title (but I've been considering it, hence my question)

So I've seen ads for wicked edge recurve stones and I'm wondering, Why would you need this?

In my tiny mind, if I take a recurve blade and lay the bevel on a whetsone, the entire length of the blade appears to make contact with the stone equally. So how would that change things when attaching the stone to a rod? Or am I incorrect in the first place?
 
Thanks for moving this to the proper place.

I have a recurve on its way in the post - but have never owned one before

Trying to imagine the scenario is a bit of a problem. It kind of seems like there is a relationship between the degree of recurve and the angle of the bevel. And the blade could only be sharpened on a flat surface if the balance between those two things was just right.

But my brain is also questioning, if recurve geometry was problematic, then the opposite type of blade (don't know what it's called, regular curve?) should have a similar issue but in the opposite manner.

Sorry, this reply sounds a little rediculous as I read to myself, but is the best I can explain it at the moment.

Think I just need to get it and play to see for myself, but if anyone has links to blade geometry, I would be very interested in reading a bit.

Thanks!!
 
Recurve are hard to sharpen with a standard type whetstone or the diamond stones. A rod type sharpener shouldn't pose a problem.
 
The truth is: you don't need special stones with the Wicked Edge to sharpen recurves, at least, not for the stock diamond progression... I have sharpened several severe recurves this way.
 
The curved stone is really nice for hawkbills. If you lay a hawkbill blade on a flat stone and then raise it to the angle you want to sharpen at -- say 15 degrees -- only two points on that recurve will be in contact with the stone. You can still make sharpening work with a flat stone, but it takes a special technique to avoid flat spots on the edge. And you can mess up the point pretty easy. The curved stone works much better.

On an ordinary recurve, a lot depends on the curve and the width of the stone. The less the recurve and the more narrow the stone, the less of an issue you will have.
 
It will likely make more sense to you when you actually have the recurve knife in your hand. Here's a pic that might help its only a mild recurve but it shows why they can cause sharpening issues. Sorry for the crappy photo quality.
 
Got it, thanks for the replies all! Seems pretty clear now, especially with the image. Don't know why it wasn't clicking before.
 
Recurves are special.

mjwqdt.jpg


Wait, wrong pic....sorry. Anyway, here's a zt350 with a light recurve that I did a while back on an EdgePro. I just used the corners of the standard wide stones, then finished with strops. The bad pic doesn't do the mirror polish justice. I was a little worried about chunking it up with just stone corners on the inside, but taking it slow I like how it came out.

99pc0o.jpg
 
Edge pro apex with 1/2 inch wide stones no problem on any of my Kukris and man are they recurved. 😅
 
Cool! I have two furry recurves like the one you posted there bfly. And now I have two steely recurve zts on the way...like your second pic.

Thanks too, Jens. Kurkis look pretty badass.
 
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