Why would you remove the knife finish?

[Flatsman007]

Just curious why someone would remove the finish on their knife? I know the obvious reason is because it looks worn. But why else? Just curious.

 

[mhawg]

I wouldn't do it myself but there are a lot of guys around here who just love to tinker with their edged tools.... :foot:

 

[leatherman]

Personally I like the look of bare metal vs coating. There's some exceptions, but not many.

 

[Jason B.]

By removing the coating you reduce the friction while cutting.

 

[Iboschi]

By removing the coating you reduce the friction while cutting.

+1
Also, as has been said already, I think it just looks better. It is easier to care for a knife when you can see the steel.

For food prep, I don't like the idea of getting the coatings in my food.

The coatings look crappy almost right away. From the consumer's perspective, I see very little benefit. Coating blades, is a really inexpensive way to leave the knives with a decent finish. Any other finish requires someone working on the knife and more expensive materials (sanding belts etc).

Fortunately, the coatings come off and without too much difficulty

 

[superfluities]

You might also ask, "why DO they coat them?"
Cunning marketing, I suspect. The coating does look bad ass until you batten a few logs.-lol

 

[Dorito Monk]

I quite like the look of a mirror or stonewashed finish over the looks of most blade coatings. So, the main reason I'd remove a coating or finish would be to replace it with a more attractive alternative.

 

[DWRW]

Personally I like the look of bare metal vs coating. There's some exceptions, but not many.

+1

One of the things I think that draws me to knives (along with the Obvious use of a great/functional tool) is the appeal of satin bare metal. I like the look ..... and feel.

Coatings....... :barf: - I think coatings look terrible even new, let alone after they get easily MORE uglified. If I "MUST" pick a coating that doesn't make me terribly ill, Sage is OK. But, I will take SATIN EVERY TIME - quickly, easily without ANY thought or ANY hesitation!


Apparently, "Some" people like the looks of coatings. But, I am NOT one of them. To me, coatings "Look" very Mall-Ninja/Tacticoooool. :barf: - Sorry to say that when I know "some" like the look of coatings. But, that is just my honest opinion. I don't really understand why anyone likes the "look" of coatings. Let alone "Choose" gunk coated on a blade over a nice looking satin finish. What is to like?

I don't think MOST of the people who buy Busse and kin knives have any need for the non-reflective properties that coatings provide. But, I can see and appreciate where "Some" of those in the military WOULD need and appreciate the non-reflective benefits of a coating.
If "I" were in the military and in a front-line battle scenario, I might have a different view on coatings. But, I am not in the military. I am not concerned about scaring the Sheeple or wildlife either. But, from what I have seen, Sheeple seem to fear black blades more than satin. I don't understand Sheeple either.

By removing the coating you reduce the friction while cutting.

+1

Coatings don't affect "all" cutting tasks. Shaving hairs only involves the very edge of the blade. Or if the material being cut is no thicker than the blades edge - chopping small twigs or somthing (????). Or if the material naturally pulls "Away" from the sides of the blade - like splitting certain dry wood in "some" cases. But, if "Through" cutting were the material "Drags" up along the sides of the blades, Satin finishes are smoother and produce less drag/resistance than most coatings. Although, at some point, the coatings tend to wear reasonably smooth at the high use areas of the blade. Once you get your partially worn blade to the partially coated stage.

With any discussion of certain "through" cutting, I would feel an obligation to point out the values of a good convex edge as well. The "corner" created between the transition of the edge to the primary grind causes more drag and resistance when through cutting. Without such a corner, Convex edges cut smoother when "through" cutting. Again, when just shaving hairs or cutting that doesn't involve drag or resistance against the transition corner, there isn't any real noticable difference. But, slice/chop deep into some green wood or similar cutting where the material being cut drags or creates resistance against the raised transition corner and/or sides of the blades and a good convex edge will bite much deeper and easier. :thumbup:


With SR-101, I actually think coatings "Do" provide protection against corrosion. But, satin is generally easier to clean. And satin SR-101 is not that hard to protect against corrosion if you know about it and stay a bit on top of it - keep it dry and keep it coated with Ren-Wax, Mineral Oil or similar lube.
I prefer to use satin finishes with food. I don't generally care to cut my food with coated blades and all of the gunk trapped in the coating. :thumbdn:

Raw unprotected SR-101 will patina VERY quickly when used to cut food. But, the patina doesn't hurt anything. Kind of like an old cast-iron skillet. Patinas look nicer to me than coatings as well.


When the coating wears away from the blade from abrasion and scuffing, you are just left with a progressively uglier blade that you can't do much about other than send back to Busse to have re-coated at some point.
With satin finishes, it is pretty easy to restore the finish with Scotch-Brite belts/pads or similar.

I wish ALL Swamp Rat knives including all SR-101 knives would be released with a Satin option!!!!! :thumbup:



INFI..... INFI doesn't need ANY coating. There is NO benefit to me for putting a coating on INFI. INFI can and will rust, but it is pretty darn resistant to rust. It takes some effort to get it to rust. Generally, I don't feel INFI needs wax or lube on the blade for corrosion protection. The only reason for coatings on INFI is because Jerry charges more than I can afford or justify for Satin INFI. $200 - $330 upcharges for a satin finish is not justifiable to me.

I don't care about LE numbers. Keep the numbers and only charge about $20 - $40 upcharge above CG finishes for satin finished blades.

$10 - $20 more for Competition edges (* But, NO more De-Carb! :thumbdn

.

 

[Flatsman007]

Thanks for all of the opinions. It has given me some insight that I did not have before asking.

 

[hoopster]

Great answers so far. I like to remove the coating because the knife just seems cleaner after I wipe it down, not to mention better performance for many tasks and the beautiful look of steel. I've stripped an Izula, a RAT RC-4, and Busse BWM. In all three cases I was glad I did. I plan on stripping one of my Swamp Wardens when they come in and will probably strip my Dogfather when it's worn enough.

 

[DWRW]

You might also ask, "why DO they coat them?"

With some slight twisting of the above wording, I think the better question is:

"Why does anyone WANT a coated blade?"

I will go ahead and concede that "Some" like the looks. Aesthetics are subjective. I can't fault anyone for liking the looks. To each their own. :thumbup: All I can say is that I don't.

I can concede that some people in the military "might" want anti-reflective properties of a coating or even camo abilities. But, I "Sense" that a HUGE majority of these knives do not "Need" anti-reflective abilities. (????)

And I will go ahead and concede that in particular for SR-101, coatings provide low maintenance towards corrosion resistance.


But, is there any OTHER reason for wanting a coating?

And for INFI, outside of looks and the "UNFORTUNATE" fact that Satin INFI costs WAAAAYYYYY MORE than CG, why would anyone want a coating on INFI? I still contend, INFI doesn't need corrosion protection. I still contend that INFI is NOT stainless and "Can" rust, but it is pretty darn easy to maintain.

.

 

[bld522]

But, is there any OTHER reason for wanting a coating?

Sure. As I know you know, the Fabulous Busse Brothers charge less for coating a blade than do they do for finishing it . . . often a WHOLE LOT LESS. But don't let me get you started.

.

 

[DWRW]

Sure. As I know you know, the Fabulous Busse Brothers charge less for coating a blade than do they do for finishing it . . . often a WHOLE LOT LESS. But don't let me get you started.

.

Yeah.... I know that you know that I know - I mentioned that one.

I will try to not let you get me started.


..... Luckily, Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard's upcharges for satin are generally pretty reasonable. :thumbup: ... Now if we could just get Swamp Rat to release Satin as a "RULE" rather than very rare exception.

 

[silenthunterstudios]

No coatings. The knives are meant to be used, they look horrible with coatings. Anyone can take care of carbon steel. Sadly, some of the people who would remove coatings don't do it anymore.

 

[hollowdweller]

The two scenarios I can see where a coating would be a good idea would be if the steel is carbon steel and you are working around saltwater.

Or a carbon steel neck knife carried in summer.

 

[DWRW]

The two scenarios I can see where a coating would be a good idea would be if the steel is carbon steel and you are working around saltwater.

Or a carbon steel neck knife carried in summer.

I would probably have to concede that in those two scenarios, the compromises of coatings might be justified by the extra corrosion protection.

But, in those two scenarios, I personally think some form of stainless might be the better option in most cases.

Personally, I really don't like neck knives. I don't like much of anything hanging on my neck. If a neck knife is big enough to fit comfortably in my hand, it is WAY more annoying on my neck. And if a neck knife is "Less" annoying on my neck, then it is too small for most of my knife needs. Most neck knives are just smaller than what fits and feels decent in my hand. Most feel horrible in my hand and so small in regards to function and fit in the hand, I would rather just have a good folder with a clip on my pocket or a good lightweight fixed blade in a light sheath on my belt if I need a small light blade. Also, I don't like skeleton tang knives. I know they are flat and thin which might help to keep flat and thin on your neck or other carry situations. But for actual "USE" of a knife, I like a handle that fits my hand comfortably. Use comfort, ergos, fit, and feel in hand is almost NEVER something I am personally willing to compromise for my knives. So far, for EVERY option I have looked at for a necker, I have found better options in other knife designs and other forms of carry - that suit my needs, uses and preferences better. I have tried a handful of various neck knives now and they just are not for me.
I know others like neck knives. So, to each their own.

Still, as much as I love SR-101, if I had any neck knife, I would probably just choose a different steel. I know the Rat Warden is SR-101, so sorry for conflicting its value to people, but I would rather have a satin necker out of stainless if I had to have a neck knife. It makes more sense to me to have made the Swamp Rat neck knives out of "SATIN" 154CM over SR-101. 154CM works more than fine for other Swamp Rat and Scrap Yard small knives that are still larger than the Rat Warden. I guess "some" might want that extra toughness, but considering neckers barely even fit the hand (the Swamp Warden is large compared to most neck knives and it still doesn't fit mine as I would like ), I don't see much prying or abuse on such a knife. I have MANY larger folders made with stainless that work fine for most tasks. To me, a neck knife is a compromise knife in "design" at least as much (even more to me) as a good folder. To me, there are many good stainless options for such a small knife where such a small knife by design would only be good for light to moderate cutting tasks anyway. Many other stainless options would likely be more than fine for such a knife - IMO.

I am a landlubber myself. I like mountains and clean, clear, sparkling, drinkable fresh-water. :thumbup:
But, for the "Salties" out there, I would guess that uses around salt water could vary a lot. Some people just need a good sharp tool for cutting rope, fishing line and similar task uses. In those cases, again I don't see need for extreme toughness and would most likely choose or prefer a good stainless considering the compromises.
I have not tried Spyderco's H1 yet. But, that seems like a good steel for many "extreme" corrosion/salt-water use knives (????).

Personally, if on a boat or dock, I would also be a bit concerned about dropping a "Valued" knife that might get lost into the water somehow. For salt-water, I would probably want a cheap beater that I wouldn't hurt too much about if lost.

On the other hand, I am sure there are those who want a very tough knife for prying rocks while scuba diving or similar. Depending on intended uses and needs, size preferences could vary a lot. Even in salt water, I am sure peoples uses, preferences, needs and justifications vary a lot - as much as anywhere else. But, for most people and in most cases, I would think some stainless knife designed, properly heat-treated and suited for the intended tasks would likely be the best option.
Still, maybe in some cases a coated Busse and kin is what is needed. :thumbup:

 

[hollowdweller]

I would probably have to concede that in those two scenarios, the compromises of coatings might be justified by the extra corrosion protection.

But, in those two scenarios, I personally think some form of stainless might be the better option in most cases.

:

I agree with you. Most of the Bark River Neck knives are stainless. However you can't get the Swamp Warden or the Izula in stainless and both are designs I like because of their slightly larger blades. Also a friend used a Dog Father for larger ocean fish. Not sure if there's a similar size and priced stainless model.

 

[hollowdweller]

Personally, I really don't like neck knives. I don't like much of anything hanging on my neck. If a neck knife is big enough to fit comfortably in my hand, it is WAY more annoying on my neck. And if a neck knife is "Less" annoying on my neck, then it is too small for most of my knife needs.

Once again I basically agree with you but say you are going to a big festival where you camp like 4 days and they won't let you have a knife.

You could be asked to empty your pockets but seldom will anyone think to ask you to raise your shirt.

Second on our farm a lot of times when we go out to do chores after work we need to cut a hay string or something. I'm famous for losing or misplacing knives. Or just forgetting them.

On our pegboard in the dining room we have 2 pegs that hold about six difft headlamps and then another peg that has like 5 difft neck knives.

The wife especially is one to put on shorts without pockets or a belt loop so the standard practice for us is to grab a headlamp(in winter) and grab a neck knife.

The sheath hanging there reminds you you had a knife so you don't lose it and in winter heavy clothes it's easier to get to than a belt knife.

But I totally agree with you that other than being a "cutter" that they are inferior to any knife with a bigger blade and a better handle.

For me it's more the concealable and the convenience factor.:thumbup: