wicked edge and angle cube

luke86

luke86

Joined
Mar 29, 2015
Messages
828
Ok so I have a question about getting the right angle on the wicked edge. It can be difficult to clamp ffg blades in the wicked edge. If the blade is not perfectly straight up and down it can throw the angle off therefore leaving an uneven bevel. My question is once you clamp the knife down if you zero the angle cube in on the blade and then set your angle accordingly. Then move to the other side and zero the angle cube in on the blade and set your angle accordingly wont this compensate for the knife not be exactly perpendicular? Based on my understanding this should essentially correct the fact that the knife isn't completely straight up and down and therefore leave you with correct angles and an even bevel. Just wanted to make sure I am correct in this? Thanks
 
Once I have the blade in the clamp securely, I put the stones on both rods,I zero the cube by placing it on the paper stone against the base of the clamp, Lay the stone against the blade in line with the clamp, put the angle cube on the stone and set the angle, then do the same for the other side. I have never put the angle cube on the blade. Once the blade is in the clamp and secured, I can not see where the blade could be not in line with the clamp. I have had not had any uneven bevels doing it this way even with my PM2.
 
With ffg blades and most kitchen knives it pays to use the cube on the blade as well. With tightening the clamp, sometimes the blade moves from side to side(instead of staying precisely upright)
I use my cube on both side of the blade to centre it perfectly, the monitor that during tightening of the clamp. And then perform my usual angle determination woth the stones.
You might even try to remove the blade from the handle( in case of folders) and use the flat piece( where the pivot is) to place your cube.

Goodluck
Niels



Sent from iPhone met Tapatalk
 
NvG79 said:
With ffg blades and most kitchen knives it pays to use the cube on the blade as well. With tightening the clamp, sometimes the blade moves from side to side(instead of staying precisely upright)
I use my cube on both side of the blade to centre it perfectly, the monitor that during tightening of the clamp. And then perform my usual angle determination woth the stones.
You might even try to remove the blade from the handle( in case of folders) and use the flat piece( where the pivot is) to place your cube.

Goodluck
Niels



Sent from iPhone met Tapatalk
Click to expand...

I would rather not have to remove my blade from the handle. And even with monitoring it, it can still be off by a little according to the cube. Visibly it will look straight. Wont zeroing in the cube on the blade then adjusting the stone to the desired degree for that side and repeating the process for the other side compensate for the slight tilt?
 
Last edited:
luke86 said:
I would rather not have to remove my blade from the handle. And even with monitoring it, it can still be off by a little according to the cube. Visibly it will look straight. Wont zeroing in the cube on the blade then adjusting the stone to the desired degree for that side and repeating the process for the other side compensate for the slight tilt?
Click to expand...

This l dont know. Havent tried that method, maybe some more experienced users can help out

What i do, is lightly clamp the blade, and stick the cube to the blade on both sides. I repeat this until the angle is the same on both sides, then monitor while tightening the clamp.



Sent from iPhone met Tapatalk
 
luke86 said:
Ok so I have a question about getting the right angle on the wicked edge. It can be difficult to clamp ffg blades in the wicked edge. If the blade is not perfectly straight up and down it can throw the angle off therefore leaving an uneven bevel. My question is once you clamp the knife down if you zero the angle cube in on the blade and then set your angle accordingly. Then move to the other side and zero the angle cube in on the blade and set your angle accordingly wont this compensate for the knife not be exactly perpendicular? Based on my understanding this should essentially correct the fact that the knife isn't completely straight up and down and therefore leave you with correct angles and an even bevel. Just wanted to make sure I am correct in this? Thanks
Click to expand...

This came up a few years ago, either here or in the W.E. forum. Without getting technical, I think the answer is technically 'no'... (having to do with centerlines, right triangles, pivot location, etc.). However, within the few degrees (usually less than 5 deg.), in actual use, the answer is, the method you describe will be close enough to do the job. As always... the Sharpie is your friend....

Depends on your setup, but on the W.E., I've found it's actually easier to keep the blade centered... usually just a piece of tape on the blade will hold it, even though the clamp is just hitting the corners of the spine. I found trying to clamp one side up against flat of the clamp... the other side really doesn't swing out far enough to compensate, and tries to pull the blade straight anyway. YMMV.

To answer the question in your other thread, I don't think you need to go beyond 600g... but I do suggest the 100-200 combo. It will make your sharpening a lot easier than trying to set bevels with the 400-600. Even if you just want to match the grind on the knife... there's usually enough difference between a "factory grind" and a "guided sharpening" that requires a little work to get set up.

BTW, no more answers until you post a picture of your setup. ;) (In all seriousness, like to see it). :thumbup:
 
cbwx34 said:
This came up a few years ago, either here or in the W.E. forum. Without getting technical, I think the answer is technically 'no'... (having to do with centerlines, right triangles, pivot location, etc.). However, within the few degrees (usually less than 5 deg.), in actual use, the answer is, the method you describe will be close enough to do the job. As always... the Sharpie is your friend....

Depends on your setup, but on the W.E., I've found it's actually easier to keep the blade centered... usually just a piece of tape on the blade will hold it, even though the clamp is just hitting the corners of the spine. I found trying to clamp one side up against flat of the clamp... the other side really doesn't swing out far enough to compensate, and tries to pull the blade straight anyway. YMMV.

To answer the question in your other thread, I don't think you need to go beyond 600g... but I do suggest the 100-200 combo. It will make your sharpening a lot easier than trying to set bevels with the 400-600. Even if you just want to match the grind on the knife... there's usually enough difference between a "factory grind" and a "guided sharpening" that requires a little work to get set up.

BTW, no more answers until you post a picture of your setup. ;) (In all seriousness, like to see it). :thumbup:
Click to expand...

Thanks for the response. It is definitely less than 5 degrees. It's more like one or two and I may be able to get it better with a little effort. Haven't tried the double sided foam tape trick yet. That may be enough to level it up perfectly. I just finished it and was playing around with it a little last night. Being the fact that it is only one to 3 degrees max off would you think the way I proposed would work without any noticeable difference? I will definitely update with a picture. I will try to get one this evening when I get home. It actually turned out really good and for just about $100.

Here's a link to the thread I used to make it. Mine looks basically the same as this one. I Just used a piece of aluminum for the clamp instead of steel.
http://www.bladeforums.com/forums/showthread.php/1146213-Homemade-Wicked-Edge
 
I normally just use rubber wedge. shims on the clamp, the tiny ones used in laying small tiles, there are 2 types soft rubber and hard plastic. They also help hold the blade in place and won't scratch the blade finish. Measuring the primary grind angle or the existing edge angle can be tricky because I have seen too many from the top 3 manufacturers with non matching angles from one side to the other.
This way at least I know my edge is square and all I have to worry is set the edge angle and make sure both sides' bevel width match; if the primary bevel isn't the same then your edge bevel will not match so watch out for that and adjust.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I always use a piece of leather wrapped around the spine, it keeps ffg blades perfectly straight up and rock solid in the clamp.
 
BTW, no more answers until you post a picture of your setup. ;) (In all seriousness, like to see it). :thumbup:[/QUOTE]

After working with my clamp a little more and using some double sided foam tape I can dial my blade in perfectly perpendicular. Thanks to a couple of youtube videos I have it spot on now. Here you go. Sorry it took so long.

Photos of my homemade wicked edge. Pretty dang pleased with how it turned out.
http://s1268.photobucket.com/user/ncindians08/library/Homemade Wicked Edge
 
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