Wicked Edge and CRK's

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Sep 8, 2009
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Gang I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on an older Wicked Edge system just to give it a shot... It's pre ball joints, but I found a decent deal for it.

My questions: who uses the WE system on their CRK's and what techniques do you use?

Is the older system too sloppy for getting the perfect edge on a Sebenza 21 or 25?

Also- if you use some other method of sharpening, maintenance, etc- what is it?

Let's get some diversity of thought and sharing in this thread peeps!
 
I've seen a video of Clay showing how to do the CRK-convex on a Sebenza that had a sorta' jacked up edge. I personally use a Work Sharp Ken Onion powered belt sharpener. Obviously it requires a lot of caution, but the results are fantastic if you do it right.
 
I'm planning on the wicked edge pro 2 soon.
It seems it gets the best looking bevels, not sure about the older model, everyone says the new system is much better.
Damn they're pricey though.
 
Ian ...

I've used the WE for nearly 4 years now and have used the original arms, the modified arms the initial ball-joint arms and the latest version of the ball-joint arms. You can achieve great results with any of them. To reduce a little of the play with the non-ball-joint arms, slip some straws over the arms (Subway straws were always perfect fit). Practice on some cheap knives and don't try to be a speed demon like Clay! Go slowly until you get the hang of the system and how it (and your technique) handles your edges.
 
I have a Ken Onion Work Sharp too. I've only used it on a couple of paring knives, a Spyderco Volpe, and a Lahar. I don't have the

confidence/guts to use it on any of my CRK's or other knives. The WS does a great job of convexing an edge.
 
As long as you are consistent and pull the blade away (or stop the belt) before the tip of the blade is half way across the belt, the results should be excellent. I have some 1200 and 2500 micromesh belts that are great for maintaining the edge between real sharpenings. This setup makes me utterly non-hesitant to give my edc 25 all the action I encounter. I leave the 2500 on the WSKO, sitting out in my shop, and give it a couple light passes any time I feel resistance cutting something.
 
When I sharpen a folder I either tape off the whole knife from the ricasso back or else put it in a small ziplock bag and poke the edge out one end and wrap the bag around the handle and tape it up so it's dust proof. Uses less tape that way.

20131109_223608_zpsc6e627f7.jpg
 
Even with the "play" in the old arms the results were still amazing! I have since upgraded to the new arms but that was just me wanting a new toy. I hesitationed to use it on my CRKs at first, but got over it and use it now without a second thought. I also have a worksharp KO, and use it in a similar way that Officer does above. When using both of those systems, I tape the knife up to avoid dust getting it the pivot area. I didn't do that a couple of times (luckily not with a CRK!) and the resulting gritty action drove me crazy and I am sure caused unneeded wear.
As for touch ups, the wicked edge is a pain in the neck. I use the worksharp as mentioned, a fine diamond rod, or a bench strop. I would recommend as you are going down the knife road you learn to at least strop freehand because it saves you the time that setting up gadgets takes:)
Most of all, remember that while learning to sharpen with anything can be frustrating it will get easier! Having a super sharp blade is worth the hassle:thumbup:
 
I seem to get good results more easily with the new arms added to my WE. More consistent sharpening angles.
 
Mine should arrive tomorrow and I'm very excited to get it broken with my kitchen and around the house knives!
 
Yes, please start with kitchen and other cheap knives before getting into your CRKs or anything similar!
 
Gang I'm thinking of pulling the trigger on an older Wicked Edge system just to give it a shot... It's pre ball joints, but I found a decent deal for it.

My questions: who uses the WE system on their CRK's and what techniques do you use?

Is the older system too sloppy for getting the perfect edge on a Sebenza 21 or 25?

Also- if you use some other method of sharpening, maintenance, etc- what is it?

Let's get some diversity of thought and sharing in this thread peeps!

WE works great with CRK folders, but if you use the 'stones' then you lose the CRK convexed edge. I compromise, and put a crisp 40 degree edge using the WE and then strop free handed (using a 'loaded' leather strop) for daily/weekly touch ups which eventually convexes (and strengthens) the cutting edge.

My original arms have no slop, I'm not sure what "play" everyone's talking about.
 
The new basic kit that came out recently has no play. I'm have the basic blue aluminium joints and they have little to no play. I have them wrapped up now to prevent metal dusts from causing premature wear and tear.

WEPS is not a foolproof system though, it still takes some common sense to get that nice perfect finish. But by far, it's the simplest system for that perfect edge.
 
just get yourself an angle cube so you can get repeatable and consistent results.
Practice with older knives until you get the hand of it.
Its a great system.
I do touch ups with the Sharpmaker which its faster for a simple touch up (spyderco) or do light passes with ceramic stones 1200-1600 grit
 
I use an old WE (pre ball joints) on my CRK's. Actually now that I have the bevels set correctly I sharpen on the 40 degree setting on my Sharpmaker. I will go back to the WE if I have to reset the bevels. I can't bring myself to freehand my CRK's yet but if I get confident enough that is next. I practiced on a bunch of knives with the WE before I did my CRK's.
 
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