Wicked Edge inbound

aquaman67

aquaman67

Joined
Jan 27, 2012
Messages
1,764
What do I need to know? (Other than how to use the search function)

I'm just excited to finally have one on the way. I got the Field and Sport Pro model. I travel with my sharpening stuff and this model seems more mobile than the large fixed base.

While I was at it I also got an angle cube and the 1200 / 1600 stones.

I plan on practicing and breaking in the stones on a few old Buck knives. I'm going to attempt to mirror polish the edge on a few of my nicer knives.

But where would be a good place to stop for an everyday user?

I guess I'll just have to play with it to see what I like. I can't wait.
 
Everyday user I stop at 600. Seems like it plows through rope easily.
Mirror edges take alot of patience. Be sure to get ride of the previous grit scratches completely before moving to the next grit. A 30x loupe works great especially if it has a light on it.
 
I like to take it up to 1000, leaves a sharp edge but still grabs, its going to depend on stones though, a fresh 600 grit stone won't scrape hair, a well broken in one will about tree top.
 
Sharpnessis said:
Everyday user I stop at 600. Seems like it plows through rope easily.
Mirror edges take alot of patience. Be sure to get ride of the previous grit scratches completely before moving to the next grit. A 30x loupe works great especially if it has a light on it.
Click to expand...

Ah. A loupe. I knew I was forgetting something. That's a great idea. Thanks for that tip.
 
What about cleaning the stones? Diamond and ceramic.

Can I just use Bar Keeper's Friend like with the SharpMaker?
 
I'd reccomend dish soap and a toothbrush for the diamond stones. But for the ceramics they clean the same as the sharpmaker rods
 
I use windex... nothing else for a year or so. Works perfect and you can keep a bottle and some paper towels right next to your WEPS w/ out all the hassle of going to the sink. =)
 
Well, I had a package delivered today. And it was my Wicked Edge.

I know I'm best reviewer but I'm really digging this thing.

The thing that has struck me the most about this system is the heft of the stones. They really do have some weight to them.

I think I'm really going to enjoy sharpening with it. I like the feel of the stones as they glide across the edge.

I will have to work out how to sharpen FFG blades. I have a lot of Spydercos. I've seen a few methods online so I think I can work it out.

I don't know why I waited so long.
 
aquaman67 said:
Well, I had a package delivered today. And it was my Wicked Edge.

I know I'm best reviewer but I'm really digging this thing.

The thing that has struck me the most about this system is the heft of the stones. They really do have some weight to them.

I think I'm really going to enjoy sharpening with it. I like the feel of the stones as they glide across the edge.

I will have to work out how to sharpen FFG blades. I have a lot of Spydercos. I've seen a few methods online so I think I can work it out.

I don't know why I waited so long.
Click to expand...

Maybe this will help on your spydercos...

[video=youtube;2T0wQDHKMR0]https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2T0wQDHKMR0[/video]
 
aquaman67 said:
I don't know why I waited so long.
Click to expand...


I waited because the Wicked Edge is expensive and because The SharpMaker was a good affordable choice. I have now had the WE for a couple years. Got the Pro Pack to start with then later added the new arms and ceramics. Great solution. I can get great results very fast and mirrored edges when desired. I like to free hand sharpened but the results and repeatability of the WE give me lots enjoyment. Enjoy.

PS - a decent cheap alternative to get mirrored edges is taping high grit auto sandpaper the the stones after ceramics and before striping.
 
Thanks for the tips

I've sharpened a few practice knives. I think I have the hang of it. And the stones are starting to break in.

One thing I did do was I managed to put a flat spot on the pivot threads with the set screw on one side. I guess I over-tightened it a bit. I really didn't think about it when I was doing it. And I'm glad it's no worse than it is.

After poking around the internet I see I'm not the only one who's done this. I'm going to find a tap and die and clean up the threads on the pivot and in the L bracket.

I need to find a way to keep this from happening again. Anyone have any ideas?

Maybe I can find some nylon set screws.
 
Be patient with it as there is a learning curve. The stones will have to run in before you get optimum results. It takes practice but it's a fun and satisfying process. Tons of support on the WE forums and here if you run into snags.
 
aquaman67 said:
Thanks for the tips

I've sharpened a few practice knives. I think I have the hang of it. And the stones are starting to break in.

One thing I did do was I managed to put a flat spot on the pivot threads with the set screw on one side. I guess I over-tightened it a bit. I really didn't think about it when I was doing it. And I'm glad it's no worse than it is.

After poking around the internet I see I'm not the only one who's done this. I'm going to find a tap and die and clean up the threads on the pivot and in the L bracket.

I need to find a way to keep this from happening again. Anyone have any ideas?

Maybe I can find some nylon set screws.
Click to expand...

If I'm understanding you correctly, you're flat spotting the knife's pivot screw or the clamp screws on the sharpener? If it's the knife pivot, you must be sharpening to a pretty acute profile. If it's the clamp, shorter screws are the fix.
 
FW JSB said:
If I'm understanding you correctly, you're flat spotting the knife's pivot screw or the clamp screws on the sharpener? If it's the knife pivot, you must be sharpening to a pretty acute profile. If it's the clamp, shorter screws are the fix.
Click to expand...

I put a flat spot on one of the micro adjustment threads (the pivot part) with the set screw.

So I used a 1/4-28 tap and die and cleaned up the threads on the pivot and inside the L bracket.

I went on WE's forums and found out I needed to add some soft but non-compressible material inside the hole the set screw goes in - to keep the set screw from contacting the pivot's threads - while allowing enough force to hold the micro adjustment's angle.

So I added 1/2 of one of these in each hole for the set screws.



I used side cutters to nibble them down enough to make them fit. I also used a Dremel cutting wheel as a grinder and flattened the end of both micro adjustment set screws.

I'm back up and running now.
 
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