Wicked edge or free hand sharpening?

Codyh9258

Codyh9258

Gold Member
Joined
Aug 29, 2012
Messages
561
I've been debating on if I really want a weps or if I wanted too buy free hand stones for three same amount or more. I just want too see what all of you alls opinions are.
 
Do you want completely consistent results from the very beginning? Do you want a guided system or would you prefer to work completely with your hands? How much do you want to spend? What kind of results are you hoping for? How much time do you want to spend? What type of knives are you going to be sharpening?

You should think about these questions, because both ways of sharpening will probably land you in the $300-500 region. I've got a WEPS inbound in a couple of weeks, but I'm still really intrigued by freehand sharpening. For now, sandpaper will suffice. The completely consistent and excellent results on the WEPS tipped the scales for me.
 
I've got a few free hand stones and I get pretty good results with them. Money doesn't really matter all that much. The knives I would be sharpening would Just be my edc or my friends knives.
 
Not on topic, but good product. Could relate to peoples or yourselves interests.

Spyderco sharpmakers inbetween both. Very portable and good results.

Its not a strict table tool. Its a hand tool to better affect use on a flat surface .

Diamond lengths are sold seperately I think.
 
I recommended that everyone start on stones. I have five DMT stones including a 10"X4" double sided, all the way down to a 1"X4"DMT backpacking stone.

It's good to learn the basics first IMO.
 
southernknives said:
I recommended that everyone start on stones. I have five DMT stones including a 10"X4" double sided, all the way down to a 1"X4"DMT backpacking stone.

It's good to learn the basics first IMO.
Click to expand...

It could be argued that you could learn the basics just as easily with sandpaper, for a fraction of the cost :) I just ordered some sheets all the way up to 5000 grit and spent like $20-30.
 
pialia said:
It could be argued that you could learn the basics just as easily with sandpaper, for a fraction of the cost :) I just ordered some sheets all the way up to 5000 grit and spent like $20-30.
Click to expand...

Sure, I just mean freehand sharpening as you would on a stone in the wilderness. I'm sure your stropping with the sandpaper, not cutting edge first though. Also, the DMT stones will out last me and I bought my first one over 20 years ago. :)
 
The WE will get you amazingly sharp edges nearly effortlessly, but IMO, using a guided system is kinda like cheating. I (obviously) don't have anything against those who use them, but I'd never buy one myself.
 
I personally find freehand more rewarding. It forms a bond between you and the knife as you learn all of its nuances. Plus freehand sharpening always puts a slight convex on the edge, because no matter how good you are, you cant keep your angles completely flat without a guide, which imo is an ADVANTAGE of freehand.

The trick with freehand Ive found is to go slightly under the angle you want, as during the stoke you will vary a little bit. Its better to go between too low and right on, than right on and too high.

You only need 2 stones when starting out, (some would argue that's all you ever need, murray carter for one) . And what Ive found is that after you get your edge on a lower stone with back and forth grinding, switch to edge trailing strokes to hone and polish the edge, and draw it out into a perfect V. I have been using Murray carters methodology for years with extraordinary results!! I peronally use shapton pro stones, but King stones are good too.

Murray Carter argues that once you have your edge, going edge forward can actually have an adverse effect on sharpness. When going edge leading your edge can run into the little imperfections in the stone, causing a slight dulling effect of the VERY TIP of the bevel... whereas when you are doing edge trailing, the edge just glides right over the imperfections, drawing it out to an ever more perfect V. It also preserves the micro serrations better, so that no matter how fine you go, the micro serrations just get smaller and smaller, but never really disappear, right up to the 30K shapton (unless you use a leather strop of something of that nature, which actually polishes the edge, making it better for pushcutting ie. shaving). Now a polihed edge, and a polished bevel are two very different things. You can have a mirror polished bevel, but still have micro serrations on the edge.

Free hand takes longer to learn, but once you master it, you can apply the skill to any medium. WEPS will get you sharper edges right away, but freehand will teach you more about those edges. IMHO of course... the guided systms can teach you a lot too, but I find you dont feel the abrasion happening. Feeling it is important IMO as it helps you get a better idea of how hard you need to push, and how far you've progressed on a given grit. Every steel, and every hardness feels differently as well.

I think JDavis said on youtube, that no steel is more difficult to sharpen, the techniques are all the same. Its just some steels take LONGER to sharpen than others. I guess it could be more difficult because you have to maintain a consistent angle for a longer period of time, but I get his point and agree completely.

SO yeah, I say buy some stones, get murray carters sharpening DVD's (amazing stuff in there btw), and give it a go. Im sooo glad I did when I did, because now I can put on an edge freehand that can whittle freehanging hair. but because of the high grit micro serrations can slice like a light saber.

Cheers!
:cool::thumbup:
 
I have been sharpening freehand for years on mostly hand me down stones. When I was a kid I destroyed many flea market knives practicing and honing:D my skills. now I am able to get a shaving sharp edge on my knives in a matter of minutes. There is nothing like shaving with a straight razor that you have sharpened and stropped. I do plan on getting a wicked edge in the future for sharpening my fancy knives or accurately reprofiling others
 
Id go with the King 1000 and 6000, or if you wanna go up a notch, Shapton Pro 1000 and 5000. The shaptons go from 220 to 30,000 (0.49um) Stropping on a stone at that high grit gets you an INSANE edge. You have to work up to it though... skipping too many steps on the way wont let the 30k do its job. You will essentially be mirco polishing a course finish. After you get comfortable with 1 and 5k, buy the next one or one of the ones in between 1 and 5k.
 
What stone would you recommend for reprofiling? Or setring your edge angle.
 
Nobody mentioned the Edge Pro. I started, many years ago, hand sharpening. I've done the sandpaper on glass, stropping on leather with 600 grit silicon carbide, the Spyderco sharpmaker, the Lansky system, and then I got an Edge Pro. Then I bought the Wicked Edge. Now I usually go back to the Edge Pro. It is still my favorite. You can get Shapton stones for the Edge Pro. Shapton Glass Stones are awesome! But, if I don't have a lot of time and I need a touch up, I'll use the sharpmaker or the strop with silicon carbide. Some swear by fine sandpaper on a mouse pad. It is really what fits your own personal preference. Asking advice is the really smart thing to do but you have to find out what works for you.
 
First off, if you ever plan on being more than a couple hundred yards from the house you ought to know how to free hand sharpen. I use at home a norton India stone 2x1x6 bench stone tad over $20 online I inherited two when a factory closed and a fine arkansas stone 2x3/8th x6 glued to a woden paddle with leather strop glued to the back It was in the house when we got here out and about I used a 1x4 x 3/8ths fine arkansas stone for touch ups and a scrap of leather to hone For years I sharpened every knife I had with a 1x4x1/2 medium norton stone a 1x4 x3/8ths fine arkansas stone and a foot of leather from an old belt those can be bought for les than $15 Most people get in to much hurry I may spend hours geting a blade sharp the first time once you get it sharp it can be kept sharp easily
Roy
 
There's something to be said for the guided systems, especially the higher end ones like WE and Edge Pro, as they can offer a higher degree of precision than freehand for most people. On the other hand, learning to freehand is incredibly rewarding, as The_Guide noted. There's difinitely a lot of blood, sweat and tears for most of us during the learning process, but that just makes it all the sweeter when it finally "clicks." Using a guided system as one of the tools in your sharpening arsenal is great, but I think people who depend upon them entirely are really cheating themselves out of a challenging but rewarding and fun learning process and a skill that will will be useful to them throughout their lives. (Obviously there are those who have some physical disability that makes freehanding nearly impossible, but that's an entirely different topic.) Since you are already getting decent results from freehanding, I'd suggest investing in some high quality bench stones and focusing on improving and perfecting your technique. You can always add a WE to your kit down the road.
 
G. Scott H. said:
Since you are already getting decent results from freehanding, I'd suggest investing in some high quality bench stones and focusing on improving and perfecting your technique. You can always add a WE to your kit down the road.
Click to expand...

:thumbup::thumbup:

For reprofiling and aggressive metal removal, the Atoma diamond plates are amazing! that would be a good first stone (in the progression, not to buy first) if you have a seriously messed up edge, or you want a complete reprofiling.
 
So when would be a good time too buy the diamond stone I've only got 1 knife that needs it pretty bad.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.
Back
Top