Wicked Edge sharpening issue

Joined
Feb 19, 2018
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So I am trying to teach myself knife sharpening using the wicked edge sharpening system and while I messed up a handful of cheap knives, the recent ones are coming out pretty solid. This is with one exception. The front right of the knife (when the edge is facing up) has a wider bevel and seems to push the edge slightly to the left (when the knife edge is facing up). Do I have it set in the clamps wrong or am I just using a too much force with my right hand? I have attached some photos of my recent sharpening. Any criticism or help is greatly appreciated!!!!

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Perhaps the blade was not perfectly vertical when being sharpened and that difference became more pronounced at the tip? While the clamp is capable of holding the blade vertically I use a digital angle reader to ensure both sides are perfectly even. Another possibility is that you are unconsciously altering the angle as the paddle leaves the tip of the blade.
 
I'd be careful using the right paddle. If you're RH like I am, I find that I put a bit more pressure on the right side and I turn the stone a bit differently than I do the left side. I'm more aware of what I'm doing LH because it's my weak side. And my left side usually comes out a little better than the right side unless I really focus on my RH technique.
 
Issues like that are commonly seen on blades with less-than-perfect symmetry of the primary grind; they're almost never perfect in production knives especially. Very common near the tip. More complex grinds with more 'facets' in them, like swedges, sabre grinds, flat near spine, hollow near the edge, etc, will more easily show asymmetry of the primary grind, comparing one side to the other when viewing the blade from the tip end (tip pointed directly toward your eye).

In the 4th photo in the OP, showing the spine view, I see a little bit of deflection of the tip toward the lower side of the handle. Maybe a slightly bent/warped tip, or maybe it's ground that way. At any rate, it shows there's at least some asymmetry near the tip of the blade. If that's off, the angles for sharpening will be a little different from each side, when clamped in the guide. The thickness of each side relative to the centerline of the grind (from spine's center to the apex of the cutting edge) often varies from side to side as well, which can also create these problems. The thicker side will show wider bevels, even if the sharpening angle relative to the centerline happens to be the same on both sides.
 
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Thanks for all the feedback. I’m pretty sure most of the issues were coming from an uneaven primary grind and working a little to quickly with the right hand.
 
Like a previous member stated, I'd recommend using a digital angle guide to ensure both sides are being sharpened at the same angle. (If you have an iPhone swipe left on the compass and it will switch to an angle guide:)
 
Like a previous member stated, I'd recommend using a digital angle guide to ensure both sides are being sharpened at the same angle. (If you have an iPhone swipe left on the compass and it will switch to an angle guide:)
Ive been using the one that came with the pro pack II, however I have only been using it to get the knife set up. I may try and use it as I got through the stones to make sure I'm not working one side more than the other.
 
Ive been using the one that came with the pro pack II, however I have only been using it to get the knife set up. I may try and use it as I got through the stones to make sure I'm not working one side more than the other.

You shouldn't be working the stones hard enough to offset the angles from the initial setup. Once the knife and sharpener are setup, you should be set for the duration of your sharpening session. However, if you use WE strops you will need to ensure the angle remains unchanged when you strop. They are a bit thinner than the diamond stones so they may be at different angles from when you initially setup the sharpener.
 
You might want to mosey over to the Wicked Edge forum. The experienced users there can answer your question or address your issue real quickly. Your particular jaws on the WE model might be canting your knife slightly because it tightens only on one side. I've read where users place a small piece of (I forgot the material) on one side of the blade so it sits perfectly vertical.
Another thing I've seen is a 4 part sticky at the top of the WE forum explaining how to set the knife in the jaws to find the sweet spot.
Lastly, as already mentioned above many knives just come with asymetrical bevels from their factory. So the best way is to first as above use an angle finder and first re-profile the edge. You may have to use your micro adjusters differently for each side.

If your system is new then its going to take 10-15 knives for the diamond stones to break in. Best bet is to buy a few beater kitchen knives at a garage sale or thrift store and practice on them and as you progress you will see fewer and fewer scratches left behind after you progress through the stones. If you want mirror edges. . . invest in the 1500 grit stone with the glass platen on the other side. Buy 6mu diamond lapping film that sticks onto the glass platen. Then strop to polish the final edge (never stroke down with a strop or it will slice into your leather).

I've only had my system 2 months and have done about 20 knives. It has a learning curve as you develop your technique with practice. Don't work on any good folders until you are 15-20 knives down the road.

Watch a few wicked edge how to vids on youtube. There are a bunch of them up there.

But definitely ask this same question over at the WE forum before you develop bad habits.

Pic of my Chris Reeve Sebenza 21's edge I did 2 weeks ago:
 

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You might want to mosey over to the Wicked Edge forum. The experienced users there can answer your question or address your issue real quickly. Your particular jaws on the WE model might be canting your knife slightly because it tightens only on one side. I've read where users place a small piece of (I forgot the material) on one side of the blade so it sits perfectly vertical.
Another thing I've seen is a 4 part sticky at the top of the WE forum explaining how to set the knife in the jaws to find the sweet spot.
Lastly, as already mentioned above many knives just come with asymetrical bevels from their factory. So the best way is to first as above use an angle finder and first re-profile the edge. You may have to use your micro adjusters differently for each side.

If your system is new then its going to take 10-15 knives for the diamond stones to break in. Best bet is to buy a few beater kitchen knives at a garage sale or thrift store and practice on them and as you progress you will see fewer and fewer scratches left behind after you progress through the stones. If you want mirror edges. . . invest in the 1500 grit stone with the glass platen on the other side. Buy 6mu diamond lapping film that sticks onto the glass platen. Then strop to polish the final edge (never stroke down with a strop or it will slice into your leather).

I've only had my system 2 months and have done about 20 knives. It has a learning curve as you develop your technique with practice. Don't work on any good folders until you are 15-20 knives down the road.

Watch a few wicked edge how to vids on youtube. There are a bunch of them up there.

But definitely ask this same question over at the WE forum before you develop bad habits.

Pic of my Chris Reeve Sebenza 21's edge I did 2 weeks ago:

Thanks for the insight. Pretty sure it was a mix of the clamp and the primary bevel being uneven. Have done around 20 or so now an they are coming out much better. Here is a recent one I did for a buddy.
 
Thanks for the insight. Pretty sure it was a mix of the clamp and the primary bevel being uneven. Have done around 20 or so now an they are coming out much better. Here is a recent one I did for a buddy.
Nice job on that edge. looked like a tough one to do!
 
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