Recommendation? Wicked Edge stones/strops/platens for Busse Zero Convex?

Dr. Lecter

Dr. Lecter

Joined
Nov 17, 2009
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My sharpening mainly involves maintaining Ban's mirrored Busse full zero convex edges. Despite knowing it's more suited to creating and maintaining specific angles, I picked up a WE gen 3 pro system because it was a great deal, it's handy for reprofiling...and it looked cool ;)

It came with 4 sets of diamond stones: 50/80, 100/200, 400/600, and 800/1000 grits. They're fine for reprofiling and refining, but I wouldn't let even the 1000 diamond grit near a finished edge for maintenance. Any suggestions on what WE stones, strops, or platens w/ film are good for maintaining an already mirrored full zero convex edge?
 
Ask Ben what stropping compound grit he finished the knife on and go from there. Start from the finest grit and work your way back to the harsher grits until you reach your desired effect for either removing material or aligning it again. When you have that, work your way back up the grits until you reach your desired result.
 
Leather strips will keep it in shape. How do you position your Busse's in it to evenly grind an edge from heel to toe? I'd like to sharpen my TGLB with my WE.
 
I just bought the WE Pro Pack 2. I got an extra set of stones with it. The 50/80 for re profiling. From my understanding the Micro Fine 1.4 / 0.6 Micron Ceramic Stones put just a mirror edge as it comes without being a true mirror. Now I have only had it a week and I am learning. There are some real craftsman on here with the WE. Mach 5 a member here helped me with this information. Look up some of his posts. He does some amazing sharpening.

From Mach 5 WE information""""pick the early sharpening accessories
I think the diamond stones are no brainers, many of the sets come with diamond stones up to 1000grit which will make a great usable edge! If you can, I also recommend the new 1500 grit diamond stone. The 1500 grit diamond stone makes the ceramic stones redundant so skip those.
3. pick a finishing technique (optional as a 1500 grit finish is plenty sharp)
here you have to choose between 1. leather strops with diamond paste 2. glass platens with diamond lapping film or 3. the fine chosera stones.
The leather strops are required if you want to sharpen convex edges, they will also do fine as a finishing technique for flat edges. The glass platens with diamond lapping film will probably give the finest sharpest "V" edge since they have no spongy quality like leather, but of course a convex edge will retain its sharpness longer, so here it is just personal preference. I would not recommend the chosera water stones, small thin water stones will lose the "flatness" and wear in the middle. For a true "V" grind, I think the lapping film will make the water stones obsolete except for perhaps the need to repurchase the disposable lapping film."""
 
I have never used a guided stone system, and so have a very hard time understanding how one could reproduce a zero convex finished edge on such a tool.

It seems to me that one would need a soft strop base, or a slack belt.
 
I def. agree w/ resinguy on that.

Instead of the WE, why not use 3m wetordry SiC sandpaper and a mousepad to maintain the full height convex? This way the blade curvature would be matched accurately.
 
Ratman79 said:
I def. agree w/ resinguy on that.

Instead of the WE, why not use 3m wetordry SiC sandpaper and a mousepad to maintain the full height convex? This way the blade curvature would be matched accurately.
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First, thanks to all for replies.

That's what I have generally done, but maintaining a consistent angle against the accurately curved surface becomes an issue. As to the issues with a guided stone system maintaining a curved blade profile, I agree in theory...but I also hear variations on the WE's FAQ about using it to maintain a convex edge (sounds complex, involving somehow blending multiple specific angles into a full convex...which is exactly why I asked (or tried to, my question could have been clearer) for anyone with experience trying to do it with a WE).

I wonder if I can get the best of both worlds by using blank WE paddles combined with some mousepads and abrasive sheets like the 3M sandpaper. For now, I think I'll start with the strops and pastes.
 
Sure, you could prob. do that. I've done similar things w/ my Edgepro (3m double stick taped to a 1inx6in blank. I have also used cut-to-size mousepad pieces w/ the 3m and attached that to the blank).

I agree that maintaining the angle on soft backing can be challenging. A light touch and a Sharpie "grid" drawn onto the blade have helped to ensure precision. Check your progress often and be slow and deliberate over the paper--I have no doubt you'll do fine!

I don't have a WE, but I imagine you can do what I do on my EP pretty easily.

Also-- as far as blending edges; you could make your bevels w/ the WE in the regular way and then use the 3m and mousepad solely to blend them into one continuous curved surface. At least the angles would be set already you know?
 
Wicked edge convexing is a pain as it basically entails making multiple angled facets then blending them together with a strop... Its difficult enough on a folder, much less a large fixed blade. It's not something I would even attempt (of course I have a sweet belt sander set up haha).

I would go with the sandpaper and mouse pad or making your own "stone" on a board with some backing material glued to it then sandpaper on top. And I agree about starting with the highest grit and working backward until you get the sharpness you are looking for!
 
IMG_4020.JPG I understand that my WE doesn't produce a Zero Convex Edge but who cares. The edge my WE does produce is scary sharp. I split wood and cut some honeysuckle and the results were tremendous.

I was hesitant to sharpen it myself based on the words of others. I'm glad I didn't listen :)
 
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Cheesehead_Slasher said:
View attachment 702892 I understand that my WE doesn't produce a Zero Convex Edge but who cares. The edge my WE does produce is scary sharp. I split wood and cut some honeysuckle and the results were tremendous.

I was hesitant to sharpen it myself based on the words of others. I'm glad I didn't listen :)
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Nice cheesehead I'm glad it worked out for you so well. Your orange tglb sure looks great striped and sharpened. I don't own a WE either... yet lol. I have been considering buying one for some time now to maintain my own TGs and after seeing your post here along w many others elsewhere well.. I think I'm finally sold!
 
I would recommend the WE120 (2ndGenderation). The new 3rd generation only fits a 3/16in wide blade.ThenWE120 holds up to a 1/4. My TGLB fits in it perfectly. Let me know if you have any questions.
 
i bet mine could too. My TGLB fit with room to spare. The new Gen 3 has a cam lock system that fails to lock if the blade is too thick. The Gen I and II are differentiated by the ball joint arms. Other than that they are virtually the same.
 
Cheesehead_Slasher said:
I would recommend the WE120 (2ndGenderation). The new 3rd generation only fits a 3/16in wide blade.ThenWE120 holds up to a 1/4. My TGLB fits in it perfectly. Let me know if you have any questions.
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You are right on this but for an extra fee Wicked Edge does sell jaws that will work with blades 1/4" thick, and jaw switching out is a cinch. Super glad you got the WEPS working on your blade, it sure is nice to keep it razor sharp ;)
 
Cheesehead_Slasher said:
I would recommend the WE120 (2ndGenderation). The new 3rd generation only fits a 3/16in wide blade.ThenWE120 holds up to a 1/4. My TGLB fits in it perfectly. Let me know if you have any questions.
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This is great info thank you. I'll definitely be taking your recommendation. That would have really been a bummer haha!
 
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