Wicked Edge - the first 24 hours

partizaan81

partizaan81

Joined
Nov 27, 2013
Messages
175
Just some observations on this system since I opened started up yesterday with the Wicked Edge Pro Pack 1:

• I was a bit worried about the quality of the PaperStone base, but it's actually quite substantial. I believe the color pattern is random, but the color is a medium gray and matches perfectly with my office.
• I would say that it definitely lives up to the hype of getting things "scary sharp." I had a KME system before this (still do, in fact), and while I could get a quality edge with the KME, it's not hyperbole to say that I really feel that the Wicked Edge is a whole new level.
• I'm using the following escalation with great results: diamond 100->200->400->600->800->1000, then ceramic 1200/1600s, with about 50-60 passes per stone. The ceramics I'm finding really makes for an impressively sharp edge, I've nicked myself twice now. I've gotten a beautiful polish now on two separate blades (an S30V Ritter Grip and a Walter Wells custom).
• The strops are, frankly, confusing - something definitely doesn't feel right. I feel like while they give me a beautiful mirror polish (I'm using 5/3.5/1/0.5 micron (in that order)), it actually.... "over-keens" the edge, I suppose? In other words, once I process through the stones, it's extremely sharp, whereas once I've gone over it with the strops, it's almost dulled the edge a bit? I'm doing about 40 passes per strop per micron-level, is this over-stropping?
• Building on the last point, once I took my blade post-micro stropping, went back through 800->1000->1200->1600 then moved to my trusty old school leather hand strop with green compound and 15 passes on each side, I lost a bit of mirror polish but DAMN that is a beastly edge. I would almost go as far as to say that it's enough mirror for me to be satisfied, but enough toothiness to the edge to grab on when needed and ask for more.
• I feel like right now I'd probably prioritize my next purchases to be the 1.4/0.6 micron strops, then the Pro Pack 2 upgrade arms. The current arms feel really fluid and I haven't noticed anything that really says that they won't fit my current needs.
• I now am searching my collection for what to sharpen next, whereas with the KME it was a bit of a chore to do touch-ups. To me, this speaks volumes. The KME is a quality product that delivers an excellent edge, but I found it cumbersome to swap stones and side constantly. I also found that the KME had a weird hairline scratching issue, which I believe was due to the wet slurry when using wetted diamond stones.
• To that point: does anyone use either diamonds or ceramics with water/oil on the Wicked Edge? Or is it not needed?

Based on the results of stones+green compound, I feel that the system, while expensive, was a great Christmas gift and will really help push my sharpening abilities. I'd love to hear some other folks' experiences with the WEPS, and particularly anybody out there that has some advice on the stropping issue.


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Yes it sounds like you over stropped. Use very light pressure with the strops. I have done the same thing as you have when I started out. Ounce you get it down it will be stupid sharp.
Also I try to stay away from the 100 grit stones unless you reprofiling something crazy or getting a chip out.
You definitely want the arms that have the micro adjustment knobs on it make it a lot better.
If your ocd like me I also suggest buying a magnetic angle finder. Because the setting markers on the rods will always be a bit off especially on the one side of the clamp that moves depending on thickness of the blade your sharpening.
Overall its a great system but as of recently I am really starting to fine tune my freehand sharpening, the wicked edge while super precise got annoying to set up for me. Its quicker just to pull out a stone and go.
But if you want the most precise edge its hard to beat.
Also when I dulled the edge stopping I just fixed it going back to the 1000 grit stones but nothing bad about going back to 800 but I don't think its necessary to go that far back.
 
I bought the KME earlier this year and experienced the same dulling after over stropping. Now I just make a few light passes with a 4 micron, followed by a 1.5 micron strop.

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Heavy stropping (ie too much pressure or too many passes) will do two things. It will slightly convex the edge while polishing it, and it can also reduce any "tooth" on the edge. Sometimes the sharper edge will not feel as sharp because it is so smooth.

Strops are generally a little flexible, so too much pressure and you are gently rounding over the edge bevel.
 
I'm a couple months in...

The arm upgrade made a huge difference for me. I was initially disappointed, but the ball joints plus micro adjustments made me much happier with the setup. Agreed that you should pick up a digital angle finder ASAP to avoid uneven bevels. The angle markings on my base are worthless.

Never used water or oil cause I don't want to deal with the mess. A couple of N52 magnets on the base make for an easy clean up. I also did the rubber boots over the ball joints to protect them.

Had a similar experience with the strops and basically stopped using them on the WE, and strop by hand instead. Changing the angle slightly did help, but overall the strops just didn't seem like they were helping vs doing it by hand after.

I'm still struggling to get the blade vertical in the clamp. The nature of the clamp wants to rotate the blade counter clockwise when you tighten the lower screw. I've actually shimmed the left peice of the clamp to compensate, but it is still very frustrating. If someone has any advice it would be much appreciated.

I've alternated using painters tape on the blade and on the vise. Seems like the vise works slightly better, but is more of a risk to scratching the blade if there is movement. I always tape the entire knife to protect it from metal dust and random slips. The foam tape doesn't work very well for me because it always allows some movement.

Still not 100% sure how to avoid a steeper bevel toward the tip. I've had lots of successes in a very even bevel all the way to the end, but every now and then it seems unavoidable, even with a 3.5" knife. Again, if someone has any advice it would be much appreciated.

The Sharpmaker is still my best friend for most of my needs. The only reason I really use the WE is for reprofiling to steeper than 20dps so I can do touchups on the SM. All of the Kizer Laconicos came very obtuse (greater than 20dps), and putting a polished 17dps edge on them has been a pleasure with the WE.

Overall, I'm sad to say that the whole thing still seems over priced and under developed IMO. Don't get me wrong, it's a great device, but creating a product for people that are obsessed with micro perfection is a tough place to be. I'd like to think that the 3rd gen clamp will solve some of my frustrations, but it from what I've read it sounds like it can create others. Really hoping to hear more opinions!
 
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my WE upgraded system is in the process but will include... currently goes up to 1000 grit diamond

Granite base
Generation 3 Vise with Ball-Joint Guide Rods,
4/2 Micron Diamond Emulsion and Leather Strops Pack,
6 Micron Diamond Lapping Film,
Wicked Edge Safety Shield (2 pack)
Digital Angle Gauge
1500 Grit Diamond Stones and Blank Glass Platens Pack
 
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Thanks for the feedback! Just for everyone's awareness, I have an angle cube already and use it religiously :)

banksy said:
To avoid dulling the edge, lower your angle 1 degree or so before stropping.
Click to expand...

I'll try that, thanks!


abbazaba said:
I'm still struggling to get the blade vertical in the clamp. The nature of the clamp wants to rotate the blade counter clockwise when you tighten the lower screw. I've actually shimmed the left peice of the clamp to compensate, but it is still very frustrating. If someone has any advice it would be much appreciated.

I've alternated using painters tape on the blade and on the vise. Seems like the vise works slightly better, but is more of a risk to scratching the blade if there is movement. I always tape the entire knife to protect it from metal dust and random slips. The foam tape doesn't work very well for me because it always allows some movement.
Click to expand...


I will say, I took maybe a 2" x 3" piece of cheapo cardstock, folder it over a few times, and then put that against each side of the blade. I verified that the angle cube made things even and exact on both sides, and after locking the knife in the clamp I didn't detect and play or issue.
 
abbazaba said:
I'm still struggling to get the blade vertical in the clamp. The nature of the clamp wants to rotate the blade counter clockwise when you tighten the lower screw. I've actually shimmed the left peice of the clamp to compensate, but it is still very frustrating. If someone has any advice it would be much appreciated.
Click to expand...

Just fold a small piece of (shammy) leather over the spine.
 
I see my name is called several times in this thread:D

Yes - over-stropping can create a beautiful mirror polished edge, usually at the cost of a bit sharpness.
 
sharp_edge said:
Yes - over-stropping can create a beautiful mirror polished edge, usually at the cost of a bit sharpness.
Click to expand...

I would say it's at the cost of draw-cutting aggression, not sharpness. The edge will still be ridiculously keen, but too much polishing will remove any remaining tooth.
 
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