Wicked Edge (WEPS) repeatability issues

[wvdavidr]

Hello everybody,
I have several sharpening systems (and probably OCD!). A big part of my reason for buying the WEPS was the ability to lock the knife in and touch it up "... pick up right where you left off sharpening." I have had NO success with this part of it. I am careful to use the little ruler and write it down. When I attempt to "touch up" the edge, it doesn't work. I end up having to go back to the marker trick and starting over. Are others having this trouble?

Thanks,
David

 

[Billabong]

Hi David,
When you say "doesn't work", is it the "tilt" angle of the blade (bevel) or length position (not matching the tip)?

Unfortunately putting a knife in the vice the same way each time is not foolproof, ideally it should be.
The left side of the vice clamp is firmly secured in a vertical position, the right side floats.
If you are sharpening a FFG knife, the right side clamp can follow the knifes side angle and result in "knife leaning" (to the left) and therefore an uneven bevel.

The advice from Wicked Edge is to clamp the knife vertically by eye, which means it clamps a point "somewhere" down from the top, then pack the gaps at the top with foam tape.
It's not always easy to repeat this the same again next time you sharpen.

I believe the WEPS will be complete when it can clamp a knife with both sides of the clamp following the knife faces.
Then rotate the clamped vice and knife to a true vertical position.

The other element is the depth the knife is located into the clamp.
They provide a two pronged depth stop, but the two default options don't always suit, some people raise the knife or angle forward or back from the default.
If you vary from this guide/stop, then it's hard to repeat the exact mounting position again next time.

Are you using an angle guage or just relying on the pre-determined angle dimples in the base rod?
These angles are really only an indicator, as they are only accurate if you are using a knife that protrudes 5/8" of an inch above the clamp and use the same thickness knife clamped the same way as when they were created by WE.

I guess until a better mouse trap is made, you rely on the marker and adopt a technique you can repeat.

edit - The top vice screw grips gently while the the lower screw spreads the jaws apart to act like a vice.
I also suggest you vary the role of each screw, but to repeat that again next time, I guess it can only come with experience, a bit hard to measure and record all these variables?
I take PC photos (.jpg), (although a mod on the WE site laughed at this idea) but I add in comments/arrows with software and name the file to suit.

 

[Jaytaylor]

Between the play in the joints and the loose fit of the paddles over the rods I get a variation of up to 2.5 deg - 1.5 deg on one side and 1 deg on the other which is disappointing. ( my WEP has the newer improved joints )

I have to adjust my technique to compensate for the variation which is a pain - I intend to pick up the ball joint arms to fix the slop in the current set up which I feel is flawed.

Having to pay extra (ball joint arms) to fix a design flaw is somewhat irritating.

 

[Billabong]

The play in the joints is aknowledged by Wicked Edge, but nothing is being done about it unless you request it, then it's a $15 fee to add washers to tighten it up.
You are still left with the arm slop as they are not changing them to the newer, larger 1/4" diameter.

Clay said he would add an option to select this service on his website, but nothing as yet.
It seems not enough people have complained to make it standard fare.

The current advice from the WE gurus is to simply make allowances for the slop in your technique.
Of the full kits, only the ProPack2 which includes the add-on ball joint upgrade properly addresses the issue currently.

To get larger diameter arms if you bought a Standard or PP1, you need to buy the ball-joint upgrade kit, currently $145.

I have replaced the ball joint with a fully enclosed version to keep the diamond and metal dust out. (original on the right)
These are fully sealed and lubricated and not tight like ther original WE ones, around $10 each retail and fit straight in.
They are a cup and ball arrangement rather than an unlubricated, open nylon race type of the WE version.

I've had longer arms made also, added two inches so the paddles don't come off the ends in use and more arm is in the paddle for better support.
As the paddle slides up the arm at the end of the stroke, I found you may only have a small amount of arm left inside and it then wobbles.

I am currently also going to raise the clamp even more so I can use "all" of the stone.
Sick of rotating the stone to get even wear.

There might be some money to be made by offering an affordable aftermarket WEPS improvement kit?

 

[Nosmo]

Nice to see your excellent mod. Should have been like this in the first place. What did you do to remove play from the paddles? IMHO these should have been made to accept 1/4" SS polished rod in the first place, with precision bushings in the paddles. More pictures would be appreciated.

 

[Billabong]

I originally bought the ball joint upgrade kit which has 1/4" diameter arms.
Clay said he tried using bushes in the paddles about ten months ago, but it was too expensive.
I think they discovered Subway straws around the same time.
Look for a thread called "Linkage play--your technique for consistency?" on the WE site.

But I have since had a custom riser made to lower the arm pivot points (angle bar) and have new arms that are two inches longer.
Might try three inches soon.

This allows the stone to go lower on the arms and offers a longer sharpening stroke using "all" the stone.

The arms are still 1/4" stainless rod with a 1/4-28 UNF thread.

The picture below shows a Shun Classic 8" chefs knife, you can see the stone top is just above the blade. (A)
The custom riser at the bottom. (B)
I have used three rubber grommits (stacked) to raise the stone, as it is a tall blade. (C)
Finally I added another locking screw to the "L" bracket as the default single screw can slip. (D)
I don't use the preset dimples at all.

I'm going to machine the sides of the clamp and riser to allow more acute angles in the future.
You can stack another WE riser instead of lowering to get the same outcome, but I might replace the WE mount altogether.

It annoys me that long, flexible knives move around too much, so I may incorporate a second clamp that can slide along a rail mount along with the main one.
Just lock them both where it suits, the arm bar stays stationary.
This would be great for long knives.

Mmm, to be able to rotate the clamps also.

 

[Nosmo]

Very nice mods. Well thought out and maybe the WE should have been made like this originally.Thank you for sharing.

 

[CarverSuds]

"MMM...to be able to rotate the clamp also". Great mods, did you see the clamp mounted on a Bessey or Panavise suction clamp? Or am I missing something here?