Wicked Edge

Maprik

Maprik

Joined
May 17, 2012
Messages
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For those of you using the wicked edge, how fine do I need to go to create and maintain a nice smooth bevel and wicked edge? I don't care about creating a mirror finish. I just want to be able to whittle hairs. Will 800/1000 stones get me there?
 
Yes they will get you there, but I would also strop after the 1000 stones.
 
Great! I already strop my knives for edge retention using a strop man green leather strop. Thanks guys.
 
Maprik said:
For those of you using the wicked edge, how fine do I need to go to create and maintain a nice smooth bevel and wicked edge? I don't care about creating a mirror finish. I just want to be able to whittle hairs. Will 800/1000 stones get me there?
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Oooh, whittling hairs....shaving? Absolutely. Actual whittling hairs requires a very fine edge (one that I personally would not put on an XM) The WEPS with the levels you mentioned and either stropping OR as mentioned in my previous posts on the subject, afixing strips of wet/dry sandpaper in the 1500/2000/2500 range to your paddle face with blue painters tape is an inexpensive and VERY effective way to get popping sharp and maybe even "hair whittling" sharp if that is indeed the goal.
I like a VERY sharp yet "working edge" on my XM's. The edge lasts longer and is generally more durable BUT as mentioned very sharp. Easily shaving arm hair (either direction) and slicing cleanly through paper (bond,news print or yellow page).
The key with the WEPS is really in the early stage technique, DO NOT rush it. Apex the edge at each stage. Re-apply sharpie marks to ensure this.
I use my WEPS for reprofiling, serious sharpening, damage repairs, etc. Quickie's are still done on my SharpMaker many times.
 
I don't feel like I have a steady enough hand to use the sharpmaker. Couldn't I just do quickies with the 800 or 1000 grits? I tried the edge pro. I didn't like it for my folders. Big knives were easy but I just couldn't hold my folders steady on the platform. :( So I ordered a WE last night (field version with additional 800/1000 stones) from HKS.
 
Maprik said:
I don't feel like I have a steady enough hand to use the sharpmaker. Couldn't I just do quickies with the 800 or 1000 grits? I tried the edge pro. I didn't like it for my folders. Big knives were easy but I just couldn't hold my folders steady on the platform. :( So I ordered a WE last night (field version with additional 800/1000 stones) from HKS.
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You absolutely can. Record your settings so you can "opo" it in and roll with a touch-up. The strips I mentioned are good for that. I like my ceramic for touch-up as well.
 
Excellent!!!! I plan on leaving it set up in my office for quick touch ups. Should probably get some ceramics but may try the 1500/2000 grit paper first. Any other suggestions?
 
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I've got ceramics for the SharpMaker, but after an occasional Wicked re-touch I find a few passes on a basic (but quality) kitchen sharpening steel (every few days) keeps a nice and sharp working edge.

Grocery receipts are kept around so I can check my edge after passes on the steel just to assure the entire edge is good to go.
 
Maprik said:
Excellent!!!! I plan on leaving it set up in my office for quick touch ups. Should probably get some ceramics but may try the 1500/2000 grit paper first. Any other suggestions?
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I'm far from the Authority on the subject but have posted extensively (with photos and step-by-steps) WEPS.

Practice -practice-practice NOT on your Hinderers. Start with a kitchen knife and develop your technique.
(Warn the family if you return a knife to service in the HH. Do NOT let them find out on their own, that is a trip to the E.R.
Work the steps and don't rush. "Build the Burr" then "Remove the Burr"
A sharpie is your friend. Little perpendicular "tic" marks on the bevel every 1'2 inch or so from choil to tip. Don't forget about the tip BUT don't roll off the tip, it will round it and remove it.
Move from kitchen to a folder that isn't a fav nor expensive. Practice and then revel in how a "not favorite" can become amazingly sharp. Don't pick a tough steel, no need to get frustrated before you ever get started.
This isn't rocket science but there is some basic technique involved.
Your booklet will have pages in the back for recording your settings ( usually bottom hole, "B" depth gauge will get 90% of your folders done) obviously kitchen knives are longer.
Good base (I made mine) and leave it "up" in my shop all the time.
I used double layer of MDF, weighty and stable.
The strips I mentioned are available at any decent automotive parts store.
Use your paddle as a template and cut to fit width (short on length) afix with little "Scotch Blue painters tape" a little goes a long way and is reuseable many times.
Those are some tips, watch some of Clays videos.
Most important! Have FUN and Do Not get frustrated, here to help.
 
Maprik said:
Thanks! I will take my time and learn. I want to master this.
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RrrMmmm a Master you will be.....Mmmmmmm

Big thing with the WEPS is Light, light, light strokes. Light and smooth. Let the paddles do the work, kind of a Zen experience.
Sharpening with the WEPS is a passtime, a Hobby in and of itself (sub-hobby to the knife hobby)
 
I sharpen my XM at 21' each side up to 1000 grit diamond then 3.5 and 5 micron strop. It produces a kind of blurry semi mirror edge but is incredibly sharp.
Most of the work is done at the 100-200 grit range. I use a scrubbing/ circle motion with the low grits. Once you create nice even bevels and have apex the
edge than the rest of the stones are a breeze. I then use an up and forward sweeping motion to make a nice uniform scratch pattern. Make sure to wipe your
blade edge after each grit/ strop to not cross contaminate.
 
Thanks for the tips!!! I've been watching many videos and observing the technique but these kinds of personal tips are priceless! Keep 'em coming please!! Looking forward to learning it!
 
Once you have your edge just strop it on a regular basis and it will be rare that you have to use the stones. The trick is not to wait until it is dull before you strop.
 
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