Will a mora fit in a fallknive sheath?

Z

zombiefighterof1987

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Apr 10, 2014
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I've had my bahco 2444 (rebranded mora companion) for about a year but i absolutely despise the sheath.Does anyone know if it will fit in a fallkniven f1,nl5,s1,nl4,h1 or hk9 leather sheath without major problems, like the knife falling out or rattling in the sheath?and if you have pictures can you post them?
 
The blade will penetrate the bottom of the FK leather sheaths, or fall out!
If there is a FK sheath that could work it would be the TK1/Tk2 sheath, but it would be better to get one made for the companion.
I believe JRE Industries have a sheath for the Companion, as one of their regular models.


Regards
Mikael
 
I like the JRE sheath the only problem is i'm 13 and don't have the 90+ dollars to buy one.
Is there any way to mod a Fk sheath or is there any inexpensive knife like a cold steel that has maybe a cordura sheath that i can use?
 
Make one. You can buy a small piece of leather and we can help you. If you just need function rather than form, you can do a nice job with limited tools.

Things that would help.

A drill press, or hand drill.

A stylus.

Durable thread and some wax.

Two needles. Harness needles are almost a requirement, but you might get away dulling two thick sewing needles.
 
The only problem is i live in eastern Europe where finding actual legit leather seems to be impossible unless if there's a simple way to turn raw hide into leather and how to hide a dead cow then i'm going to have problems finding real leather, would it be possible to mod a fallkniven sheath or get maybe a plastic insert and some synthetic leather (unless real leather from a jacket will work) to make a sheath?
 
zombiefighterof1987 said:
The only problem is i live in eastern Europe where finding actual legit leather seems to be impossible unless if there's a simple way to turn raw hide into leather and how to hide a dead cow then i'm going to have problems finding real leather, would it be possible to mod a fallkniven sheath or get maybe a plastic insert and some synthetic leather (unless real leather from a jacket will work) to make a sheath?
Click to expand...

That's a tough one. Don't use jacket leather. Most likely it's chrome tanned, or some other tannage that is less expensive, faster and used to soften the leather. Fine for skin, not steel.

Are there any hobby or fabric stores? Would it be prohibitively expensive to have some shipped to you?

What about ordering some Kydex? You could make a liner with that, or just build a sheath with it.

How is there no available veg tanned leather? That would really suck. What about saddlers? Maybe you could find someone that makes things with veg tanned and buy a piece. Cobblers (shoe and boot repair) might have some veg tanned. Mine does, but I don't need to buy it from him.

There's gotta be a way to figure this out.
 
There is a store with knives but their out of stock with leather plus they canceled their contract with the company that provided the leather, they do sell kydex but i don't have the equipment to work with it but i am currently looking at a couple stores in other countries that might sell them and also looking for a shoe or boot repair store that might make a sheath for me because i know my uncle had a sheath made for him but the guy that made it passed away.I might order some from the UK or just buy a TBS boar sheath once i convince my parents i can't get hacked if i use my credit card and deactivate it right after.
 
I just got some leather a week ago but here's 2 questions i want to ask:
Can i use rivets instead of stitching?
If not do i have to get a specialty set of wax string and a needle or can i use a regular ol' sewing needle and and inner strand of 550 cord?
 
I wouldn't try to use only rivets. It could be done, but wouldn't look good, to me, anyway.

You'll want waxed thread, or you can wax it yourself using bees or other wax. I've never tried PC core, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. Far more expensive that way than just buying waxed thread though.

You will struggle with regular needles. If you do find a size that works, you'll need to dull the tips so that they don't pierce the other thread as it passes each other. You can get harness needles at Tandy or Hobby Lobby (at least at my location), but ordering online, you can order John James harness needles which I highly recommend over Tandy.

Edit- just remembered you are in Europe. If shipping is reasonably priced I think I can spare a couple of needles (you need at least two to saddle stitch) and some black waxed thread. If you'd like, send me a pm or email with your address and I'll try to ship you some stuff the next time I ship a sheath. I'll cover the shipping. I can't imagine an envelope with thread and needles would cost much. I have no idea if you'd need to pay a tax or if it might get confiscated though.
 
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I have the stuff except the needles which i can get quite easily considering my mom knows a guy who can sell me the stuff i need i just thought paracord would look cool but i think what i'll do with the rivets is i'll put one at the bottom alongside stitching just for safety now all i need is to learn how to make a sheath...
 
Contact cement is a glue where both sides of an item to be glued together are coated with a thin coat. When that has dried both sides are pressed together. I wouldn't build a sheath without it. It holds everything together while it is stitched and most importantly it makes your edges almost seamless. hereit is availalbe almost anywhere, even grocery stores. You can get a small bottle for 2 or 3 dollars.
 
I wouldn't go without, either. I know they have a brand in England that looks very similar to Weldwood Gel. Might ask Ian Atkinson (YouTube) what he uses and see if it's available to you.

Dave's right, use thin layers. Build up the layers until you see a shiny coat though. If it soaks in, apply another (thin) coat. I let them dry before putting them together and I sometimes use clamps, although I haven't found that necessary. If you put them together just before they fully dry you probably won't get as good a bond, but it will allow you to move the positioning a tiny bit.
 
No clamp needed, just apply the cement to both surfaces and let it dry then firmly press them together. Be careful, like strig said, it takes right off the bat. Once they are touching they are bonded very firmly and the more you press the better the bond.

Clamps make unwanted marks, you dont need them.
 
Well i think i now everything i need to know now all that remains is to get a knife blade and handle since i decided to go all out making a knife my own.
 
Cool. I'd like to see the pair when you're done.

Clamps are pretty unnecessary. I have used popsicle sticks to distribute the pressure, but again, they aren't really needed. I do recommend that you tap the joining with a soft faced mallet though. If you do everything right you'll have an edge that will burnish beautifully without an obvious glue line.

Good luck, and just ask if there's anything I can help you with, either with the knife or the sheath.
 
Actually there is a question i have:
What kind of care the sheath would require and could i just use the stuff i have for my leather boots?
 
There are a lot of opinions on what is adequate care for leather. I have personally tried 2 over the counter products and one that I made myself.

Tandy- Super Sheen. This is an acrylic based finish that leaves a high luster. I don't care for it because there are frequent reports of fogging, crazing and cracking. It also doesn't allow the leather to breath as it is a sealant. I also don't care for the way it stiffens the leather. There is also a satin version of the product, I haven't tried it, but I'd probably prefer it as I don't care for a high sheen.

Fiebings Tan Kote- I use this soley on the experience and tastes of other craftsmen that I respect. I don't care for the high luster or the way it stiffens the leather.

Beeswax/coconut oil- this is a mix made using a double boiler to melt and emulsify the two ingredients. This provides excellent protection from the elements, however, I'm not certain about how long it lasts. My first sheath had a single application. It has been used hard with little regard to the elements and has proved to be quite nice over the last 6 months. It may fail after next week, I have no idea, but a 30 second re-application should bring it back to working condition. The ratio of the mix should look for a melting point lower than the wax alone, but much higher than room temp. The jar that I have will melt from a hair dryer on high, but not so much out on a summer day.

Those are things to consider for fresh untreated leather.

For maintenance, I use a very light application of Neatsfoot oil. Others like mink oil.

As for shoe care products, I have no direct experience using them on a sheath. That being said, I would guess that they would be adequate. The companies that make them (typically) have spent a ton of time and money on research on development of the products. There are plenty of very expensive products marketed for specific uses, but shoe and boot care is similar enough to our uses, I have no problem recommending you try them. This view point is my own, but it is well echoed by experienced leather craftsmen on another (leather focused) forum that I also frequent.
 
I just made my friend a GI tanto sheath and when i went to buy more leather i discovered they'll get more cattle leather in 2 months but they do have goat leather in stock, should i get the goat leather or should i wait 2 months?
 
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