Will a Sharpmaker sharpen any kind of steel ?

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ATS-55? 34? D2? 440A,B,C? 420J,HC? Pakistani Mystery Metal?

If so, and I baby my knives, why not buy cheaper steel knives and sharpen more often ?

The reason I ask is because I recently saw a one-piece skeletonized lneck knife advertised in a mail order catalog for 10 bucks. All it said was "stainless", so it's probably 420J2, or something equally cheap. But I figured, hey if I can get it as sharp as ATS34, why not ?

I must admit, though I am curious for answers to my question, it now seems academic and moot in light of the Arc Lite/Kydex combo for $20.
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Yes, the sharpmaker will sharpen any kind of steel. Why not buy cheaper steel knives and sharpen more often? I can give you a long list of reasons, some of which include:

Cheap steel usually also means cheap construction, meaning a knife that is more likely to fail you if you ever need it for a tough chore.

You probably can't get a lousy steel as sharp as a high-quality one. This is because it lacks the strength to take a decent edge profile, resulting in poor cutting performance, and because the grain structure/heat-treat are likely to be such that you'll end up with a burr that keeps flopping back-and-forth, or an uneven grind, etc.

Finally, I for one take some pride in owning the best example of something that can be had. Sure, I don't need a hundred dollar (or more) knife to cut up boxes or open my mail, but I enjoy possessing something that, in some small way, reflects the best efforts of its designer and maker, whether that be a Dozier hunter, or a Spyderco or Microtech folder.
 
The grinds are really thick on those cheap knives generally. I destroyed an Edge Pro coarse stone trying to sharpen my friend's made in China knife which barely had an edge. It won't take a good edge because the edge geometry is horrible.

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Chang and the Rebels of the East
(Southern Taiwan Shall Rise Again!)

[This message has been edited by Comrade Chang (edited 11-01-2000).]
 
Generally cheap stainless steel won't hold an edge well when beveled thin enough for top performance. Even if you convex bevel the edge you need to leave the final edge sufficiently obtuse that it underperforms. Second rate stainless alloys with second rate heat treatment also resist being sharpened to a fine edge, due to coarse grain structure. BTW, cheap non-stainless alloys generally work a lot better than cheap stainless.

In a pinch you can get decent slicing performance out of these alloys if you sharpen them with a file. This leaves a sort of micro-serrated edge that work pretty well with obtuse edges. If the blade is serrated to start with you may want to get an appropriately sized round file.
 
Yeah what they all said. A sharpmaker will sharpen most metals (all steels) in fact I haven't encountered anything it couldn't sharpen. (although sometimes I still use bench stones to remove large amounts o metal) Half the time with those cheap knives they don't even heat treat them at all.

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Just because I'm paranoid doesn't mean they're not out to get me.
 
my dad gets good results even on 440v but he does fifty strokes on each side of each stage of sharpening to get it... love my sharpmaker
 
Sharpmaker sticks are basically aluminum oxide bonded in ceramic. AlO is nine point something on the Mohs hardness scale. Steel, no matter how hard you get it, will not get above seven, so no steel should be able to resist your Sharpmaker.

HOWEVER, steel is not an element, it's a compound. Cheap stainless at least has chromium, iron and carbon (the three basic components of "stainless" steel). These elements do not simply merge together, they get electrically bonded into certain structures -- the shape and configuration of which depends a great deal on the heat treating, grain structure, whether it's hammer forged, etc.

Some of these structural configurations can be quite haphazard and weak; others are very neat and compact. Take the difference between a pencil lead and a diamond. Both are pure carbon, but one is WAY harder than the other. The difference is in the structural relationship of the atoms. Diamond uses a compact tetrahedron structure, which is so strongly bonded that you can't force them apart simply by rubbing other compounds against them. Conversely, they hold together so well that if you rub a steel with them, they'll push those steel structures out of the way like they were a house of cards. That's hardness.

Now, on to steel compounds. Like graphite vs. diamond, there are different ways for steel to form relationships between the various component elements. Hence words like "pearlite", "martensite", etc. These describe structural properties of the steel, which relate also to its grain structure (steel compounds into small "grains" of these molecular structures). [Note, I'm only halfway sure about this, since I'm a bit new to metallurgy].

Not all of the steel will be homogenous, either. Some of the chromium will be bonded to the carbon, for example, but some of the chromium will be "free", and not bonded to anything. This leaves it chemically available to oxygen, which will lead to the formation of a chromium oxide barrier on the surface of the steel, providing a rust protecting layer that prevents oxygen from bonding with the iron atoms.

Likewise, many of the other elements within the steel will also bond with the carbon, forming "carbides". Carbide are extremely hard. Silicon carbide is harder than even aluminum oxide (the compound in your Sharpmaker sticks), so that if an SiC molecule has risen up to the surface of your blade, the Sharpmaker stick will not be able to wear it down, only push it around. This is in principal not a really big issue, though. For steels where this happens more frequently (such as crucible metallurgy steels, like 440V), a diamond hone will take care of those pesky SiC residuals.

Anyway, nobody I know ever wants to hear about this stuff, so I thought I'd take a chance and post an amalgam of what I've learned from the Net. The long and short is that if you have a cheap blade, and you sharpen it every day, it will probably cut fairly well. But it may chip if it's not tough enough, and will bend easily if it's not hard enough. A good blade steel with do neither under most circumstances, giving you that "gliding through the material" feeling that a good sharp blade should.

To others, please correct my errors. I'm eager to know myself.
 
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